Goa
Goa is India's smallest state, a 105 km strip of beach, estuary and paddy on the Arabian Sea, ruled by Portugal from 1510 to 1961. Go November to February for dry, 30 °C days. Stay at a beach resort in the south or a villa in the north, and give the Portuguese heritage at least two days.
- No payment to startPay a deposit only when you book
- Itemised written quoteEvery hotel, car and guide listed
- One plannerFrom first call to last transfer
- Change anythingEvery route is a starting point
Goa, in brief
Most people arrive in Goa for the sea and leave without seeing it properly. The coast is only half the story. Behind the beaches lie villages of ochre and indigo mansions with oyster-shell windows, whitewashed churches on every rise, and paddy fields that flood green in July. Four and a half centuries of Portuguese rule left a Latin layer over a Konkani world, and the mix shows in the food, the music, the feasts and the faces.
We plan Goa in two halves. North of the Mandovi river, Bardez and Pernem are livelier: Assagao's villas and cafés, the Anjuna and Mapusa markets, Fort Aguada on its headland and the quieter beaches of Ashvem and Mandrem near the Maharashtra border. South Goa, in Salcete and Canacona, is slower and greener, with long beaches from Majorda to Mobor, the great houses of Chandor and Loutolim, and the bays of Palolem and Agonda.
Between the two sits Panjim, a small riverside capital with a Latin quarter called Fontainhas, and 10 km upriver, Old Goa, once a city to rival Lisbon. Its churches, including the Basilica of Bom Jesus with the body of St Francis Xavier, are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Ferries cross to the islands of Divar and Chorao, where a mangrove bird sanctuary sits fifteen minutes from the capital.
Our Goa journeys use a private car and driver throughout, a heritage guide for Old Goa, Fontainhas and the southern mansions, and the best rooms at the Taj, Leela and Alila resorts, or a private villa with staff. We time days around the heat and the tide: churches and markets in the morning, the beach after four, and dinner late, as Goans do.
Why go
Reasons to go, plainly
The Basilica of Bom Jesus, the Se Cathedral and the ruined tower of St Augustine stand within a 1 km walk, all that remains of a 16th-century capital. Go at 9 am, before the coach groups, with a guide who can read the altars and the history behind them.
Narrow lanes of yellow, blue and ox-blood houses with balcões, tiled name plates and a chapel at the end of every street. A two-hour walk at 8 am, finishing with coffee and a bebinca, is the best introduction to Goa we know.
Braganza House in Chandor runs the length of a village square, its ballroom still lined with Belgian mirrors and Macau porcelain. Nearby Loutolim and Quepem hold more mansions, some still lived in by the families who built them.
Palolem's crescent bay, Agonda's 3 km of near-empty sand and Galgibaga's casuarina-backed shore, where olive ridley turtles nest in winter. Two hours from the north, and a different pace altogether.
Fish curry rice at lunch, pork vindaloo and sorpotel at Christmas, crab xec xec, prawn balchão and bebinca with its 16 layers. We book family-run restaurants and, where we can, lunch in private homes in Salcete.
A five-minute ferry from Ribandar reaches Chorao and the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary's mangrove channels. Divar, across the river from Old Goa, has hilltop churches, cycling lanes through paddy and the Bonderam flag festival in August.
The map
Where to go in Goa
- 1Morjim, Ashvem and Mandrem
- 2Assagao, Anjuna and Vagator
- 3Benaulim, Varca and Cavelossim
- 4Candolim, Sinquerim and Nerul
- 5Divar and Chorao islands
- 6Dudhsagar and the Mollem forests
- 7Chandor, Loutolim and the Salcete mansions
- 8Old Goa
- 9Palolem, Agonda and Canacona
- 10Panjim and Fontainhas
North Goa's quiet beaches, from the Chapora mouth to Arambol
Villa lanes, flea markets and a clifftop fort in north Goa
South Goa's long beach, from Majorda to the mouth of the Sal
Fort Aguada, the Reis Magos ramparts and north Goa's calmer beaches
River islands of paddy, mangroves and hilltop churches
Waterfalls, spice farms and a Kadamba temple in the Western Ghats
The great Portuguese-era houses of south Goa's villages
The UNESCO churches of Portugal's lost Asian capital
The curved bays and forest edge of Goa's far south
Goa's riverside capital and its painted Latin quarter
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Routes through Goa
Indicative prices per person, twin sharing, at the hotels named. Every route can be changed.
Experiences
Hours worth planning around
Where we book
Stays in Goa
A long-established Taj resort on the slopes below the 17th-century Fort Aguada, with sea-view rooms and cottages above Sinquerim beach. It suits families and first-time visitors …
A small, private hotel of white villas and gardens on the Nerul shore, looking across the water to Fort Aguada. With only a handful of rooms, …
A lively design resort on the rocks above Vagator beach, below the walls of Chapora Fort. Bright interiors, a beach bar and DJ evenings make it …
A beach resort on Vainguinim cove near Dona Paula, designed by the architect Charles Correa as a stylised Goan village of lanes, courtyards and painted walls. …
A large, low-rise Taj resort in Mediterranean style on the Benaulim beach, with wide lawns that run straight to the sand. It is our default south …
A spacious resort at Mobor, at the southern tip of the Salcete coast, set between the Sal river and the sea with lagoons winding through the …
A contemporary resort at Majorda, a few minutes inland from the beach, built around an infinity pool that looks over paddy fields. It is at its …
The only large luxury resort in Canacona, on Rajbag beach about 5 km south of Palolem, with a golf course, a spa and a long, quiet …
Shape your own journey Tell us your dates and what you hope to feel. We draw the route around you. Begin Not sure where to start? We match the land to your month, your pace and the people travelling with you. Begin Talk to a planner A first route and an indicative price within one working day. No payment to start. BeginMonth by month
Goa through the year
Goa by travel style
The calendar
Festivals worth the dates
Goa's Carnival is a four-day street festival before Lent, led by King Momo, with float parades, brass bands and dancing in Panjim, …
Shigmo is Goa's Hindu spring festival, marking Holi and the return of warriors after the winter campaigns. Village rituals come first, then …
The Feast of St Francis Xavier on 3 December is Goa's largest religious gathering. Pilgrims from across India fill Old Goa for …
São João, on 24 June, is Goa's monsoon feast of St John the Baptist. Young men wearing crowns of leaves and flowers …
Serendipity Arts Festival is a multi-disciplinary arts festival held in Panjim, with exhibitions, music, theatre, dance, food and crafts across riverside venues. …
Shape your own journey Tell us your dates and what you hope to feel. We draw the route around you. Begin Not sure where to start? We match the land to your month, your pace and the people travelling with you. Begin Talk to a planner A first route and an indicative price within one working day. No payment to start. BeginGetting there
Arriving in Goa
Goa has two airports. Manohar International Airport at Mopa (GOX), opened in 2023, sits in the far north: ≈ 45 km · 1 h to Panjim, ≈ 30 km · 45 min to Assagao and ≈ 115 km · 2.5 h to Palolem. Dabolim Airport (GOI), near Vasco da Gama, is better for the south: ≈ 30 km · 45 min to Benaulim and ≈ 28 km · 40 min to Panjim. Both have direct flights from Mumbai (1 h), Delhi (2.5 h) and Bengaluru (1 h 15 min); international routes, mostly from the Gulf, have shifted between the two, so check current status before you travel. The Konkan Railway serves Thivim in the north and Madgaon in the south, with day trains from Mumbai. We meet every flight with a private car and driver.
Guides
Read before Goa
Our favourite seven days in Goa: two nights near Panjim for Fontainhas, Old Goa and Divar; a day in the Western Ghats for a …
Goa has more than 30 beaches along about 105 km of coast. For quiet, choose Mobor, Agonda, Galgibaga or Mandrem. For families, Sinquerim, Benaulim …
Goa Carnival is a four-day street festival before Lent, usually in February. King Momo opens it in Panjim with a decree to make merry, …
Fontainhas is Panjim's Latin quarter, a grid of painted 19th-century houses below Altinho hill. Walk it at 8 am on a 2.5 km loop …
Goa's monsoon runs from early June to late September, with roughly 2,500 to 3,000 mm of rain. The sea is unsafe and beach shacks …
Choose south Goa for long, quiet beaches, large luxury resorts and the Portuguese mansions of Salcete. Choose north Goa for villas, restaurants, markets and …
Rent a villa in Goa if you are a family or group staying four nights or more and want privacy, space and a cook; …
Goa is one of India's easiest family destinations: short flights, warm sea, big resorts and outings children love. Stay at Taj Fort Aguada in …
Goan food is two kitchens, Catholic and Hindu, sharing coconut, kokum, chillies and the day's catch. Eat fish curry rice at lunch, try vindaloo, …
Old Goa's churches and convents, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1986, are what survives of the 16th-century capital of Portuguese Asia. See the …
Shape your own journey Tell us your dates and what you hope to feel. We draw the route around you. Begin Not sure where to start? We match the land to your month, your pace and the people travelling with you. Begin Talk to a planner A first route and an indicative price within one working day. No payment to start. BeginQuestions travellers ask
Questions about Goa
What is the best time to visit Goa?
November to February is best: dry, 20–33 °C, a calm sea and low humidity. March and April are hotter but still rain-free and cheaper. The monsoon, June to September, brings heavy rain, rough seas and closed beach shacks, but Goa is very green then and resort rates often halve. Avoid May, which is the most humid month.
Which airport should I fly into, Mopa or Dabolim?
Fly into Manohar International Airport at Mopa (GOX) if you are staying in north Goa: Assagao, Anjuna, Mandrem or Candolim. Fly into Dabolim (GOI) for Panjim and the south: Benaulim, Cavelossim, Chandor or Palolem. Mopa to Palolem is about 2.5 hours by car, so the right airport matters. Routes shift between the two, so check current status before you travel.
Is north Goa or south Goa better for a luxury holiday?
South Goa suits most of our guests. The beaches are longer and quieter, the large resorts such as Taj Exotica and The Leela Goa are there, and the Portuguese mansions of Chandor and Loutolim are close by. North Goa is better for villa stays, cafés, markets and nightlife. We often combine the two over 6 to 8 nights.
How many days do I need in Goa?
Five nights is the minimum we suggest: one day for Old Goa and Fontainhas, one for the southern mansions and three for the beach. Seven or eight nights lets you split north and south, add a day in the Western Ghat forests at Dudhsagar and still have unhurried pool time. Longer villa stays of 10 nights are common in winter.
Do I need a permit to visit Goa?
No. Goa has no inner-line or protected-area permit for Indian or foreign travellers. Foreign nationals need a valid Indian visa; Goa is an e-Visa arrival point, but confirm your airport is listed. Wildlife sanctuaries such as Mollem and Cotigao charge entry and camera fees at the gate, and the Dudhsagar jeep track runs on forest department tickets; check current status before you travel.
Is it safe to swim in the sea in Goa?
From October to May, yes, at beaches with lifeguards and flags, which include Candolim, Benaulim, Colva and Palolem. Swim between the flags and not after dark. From June to September the sea is rough and swimming is banned or strongly discouraged across the state. Rip currents are common at river mouths, so avoid swimming near them in any month.
What is Goa famous for apart from beaches?
Old Goa's UNESCO-listed churches, the Latin quarter of Fontainhas in Panjim, and the Portuguese mansions of Salcete. Also Goan cooking, both Catholic and Hindu, cashew feni, the Carnival and Shigmo parades, Hindu temples around Ponda, and the forests of the Western Ghats with Dudhsagar Falls. Mangrove birding on Chorao is excellent from November to February.
How much does a luxury Goa holiday cost?
Our private Goa journeys start from about ₹1,10,000 per person for 5 nights in the monsoon and ₹1,70,000 to ₹2,30,000 for 6 to 8 nights in winter, twin sharing at hotels such as Taj Exotica, The Leela Goa and Alila Diwa, with a private car, guides and breakfast. The Christmas and New Year week costs considerably more.
Is Goa good for a family holiday with children?
Yes. The southern resorts have large lawns, shallow lifeguarded beaches, kids' clubs and calm water from November to March. Good family days include the spice farms near Ponda, a jeep ride to Dudhsagar Falls, a dolphin boat from Mobor and the forts at Aguada and Reis Magos. Drive times are short, rarely more than 90 minutes.