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Tales of Luxury

Jodhpur

The blue city below Mehrangarh Fort

Jodhpur is the gateway to the Thar and home to Mehrangarh, one of the most powerful forts in India, rising above a blue-washed old city. Stay two or three nights at Umaid Bhawan Palace or RAAS, see the fort at opening, and visit from October to March.
Jodhpur
Photo: Sanhitasinha · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Rao Jodha founded Jodhpur in 1459 as the capital of the Rathore kingdom of Marwar, and began Mehrangarh on a rocky hill about 125 m above the plain. Over five centuries his successors built palaces inside its walls, and the city grew below in a tangle of lanes, many of the houses washed in blue. Marwar, the land of death in its old name, was dry and hard, and its rulers famously tough.

Today Jodhpur is the second city of Rajasthan and the natural link between Jaipur, the Thar and Udaipur. Mehrangarh is the main reason to come: its museum, run by the royal family's trust, is one of the best in India. Below it, the old city around the clock tower market and the restored stepwell of Toorji ka Jhalra rewards slow walking. On Chittar Hill, Umaid Bhawan Palace remains a royal home and hotel.

We plan two nights for most journeys and three for guests who want the Bishnoi villages and the craft workshops of Salawas. Start early at the fort, walk down through the lanes to the market, rest in the heat of the day, and use the evening for the Desert Rock Park or dinner with a view of the fort lit up. October brings two music festivals.

Highlights

What Jodhpur does best

Mehrangarh at opening

Climb through seven gates into palaces of carved sandstone, with galleries of palanquins, howdahs, arms and paintings. The museum is run with rare care, and the ramparts look down over the blue city to Umaid Bhawan on the far hill.

The blue lanes of the old city

Walk down from the fort through Brahmpuri and Navchokiya, where many houses are washed in indigo blue, to the clock tower market and the restored Toorji ka Jhalra stepwell. Morning light is best for photographs.

Jaswant Thada

A white marble cenotaph built in 1899 for Maharaja Jaswant Singh II, a short drive below the fort. Its thin marble panels glow in sunlight, and the garden terraces look back at Mehrangarh.

Bishnoi villages and Salawas

South of the city, the Bishnoi community has protected trees and blackbuck for 500 years. Visit a family, see blackbuck in the fields, and watch dhurrie weavers at work in Salawas.

Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park

A restored area of volcanic rock and native desert plants below the fort walls, with marked trails. An early morning or late afternoon walk here shows a side of the Thar most visitors miss.

Getting there

How to reach Jodhpur

Air

Jodhpur Airport (JDH) is about 5 km south of the city, 15 minutes by car. Direct flights connect it with Delhi, Mumbai and Bengaluru. There is no reliable direct flight from Jaipur or Udaipur, so we drive those sectors. Check current status before you travel.

Rail

Jodhpur Junction has trains to Jaipur (about 5–6 hours), Delhi and Jaisalmer (about 5.5–6 hours). The Jaisalmer train is a comfortable alternative to the long drive across the desert. We book executive or first class where available.

Road

Jaipur is about 335 km, 5.5 hours. Jaisalmer is about 285 km, 5 hours. Udaipur is about 250 km, 5 hours direct, or 6 hours via Ranakpur. Jawai is about 150 km, 3 hours, and Bikaner about 250 km, 4.5 hours.

From our planners

Five things to know

  1. Reach Mehrangarh when it opens; the ramparts are hot and crowded by noon
  2. Take the museum audio guide or a private guide, as the collection deserves explanation
  3. Walk down from the fort to the old city rather than driving; ask the car to meet you at the clock tower
  4. Try a makhaniya lassi and mirchi vada, both Jodhpur specialities, at old shops near the market
  5. Book a dinner table with a fort view; Mehrangarh is floodlit after dark

Questions travellers ask

Questions about Jodhpur

How many days do you need in Jodhpur

Two nights gives one full day for Mehrangarh, Jaswant Thada and the old city, and time to enjoy the hotel. Three nights adds the Bishnoi villages and Salawas weavers or the Desert Rock Park. One night is too short for the fort and the city.

What is the best time to visit Jodhpur

October to March, when days are 24–30 °C and nights cool. October brings the Marwar Festival and Jodhpur RIFF at Mehrangarh. April to June is very hot, above 40 °C, and the monsoon is light and humid. We plan Mehrangarh at opening and keep afternoons for rest, even in winter. Festival dates change each year, so check current status before you travel.

Umaid Bhawan Palace or RAAS Jodhpur

Umaid Bhawan for a grand royal palace with gardens on a hill outside the centre. RAAS for a boutique stay in the old city with Mehrangarh directly above. For two nights, one of each gives both sides of Jodhpur. Umaid Bhawan, run by Taj, is still a royal home on Chittar Hill with views to the fort. From RAAS you can walk straight out into the lanes.

Is Jodhpur worth visiting

Yes. Mehrangarh is one of the finest forts in India, with an excellent museum, and the blue city below is the most atmospheric old town in Rajasthan. Jodhpur also connects Jaipur, the Thar and Udaipur, so it fits naturally into most routes.

How far is Jodhpur from Jaisalmer

About 285 km, 5 hours by car across the desert, or about 5.5–6 hours by train. Many guests take the train one way to break the long drive. Flights between the two are rare. We book executive or first class where available, and the train is a comfortable way to cross the desert. Timetables change, so check current status before you travel.

How far is Jodhpur from Udaipur

About 250 km, 5 hours direct. Most of our guests take the longer route via the Ranakpur Jain temple, about 6 hours plus the visit, which turns a transfer into one of the best days of the journey. We leave after breakfast and reach the lake by late afternoon. Jawai, about 150 km and 3 hours from Jodhpur, also makes a good stop for leopards on the way.

What food should I try in Jodhpur

Mirchi vada (chilli fritters), pyaaz kachori, makhaniya lassi, mawa kachori and laal maas. The old shops around the clock tower are famous for them. For a refined Marwari thali, ask your hotel's kitchen in advance. Our blue city walk ends with a makhaniya lassi near Sardar Market. Laal maas is a fiery mutton curry, so ask the kitchen for a milder version if you prefer.

Is Jodhpur good for families

Yes. Children enjoy Mehrangarh's ramparts and armoury, the Bishnoi villages and blackbuck, and the Desert Rock Park trails. Umaid Bhawan's gardens give space to unwind. Keep afternoons for rest, as the heat builds early. We plan Mehrangarh at opening, when the ramparts are cool, and the Bishnoi morning early, when the animals are active. Two or three nights suit families, with at least one at Umaid Bhawan for the gardens.

Can you see Jodhpur in one day

You can see Mehrangarh, Jaswant Thada and the clock tower market in one full day, but it is rushed. We recommend two nights so the fort comes at opening time and the old city in the evening, without feeling hurried.

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