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Old Goaculture

Bom Jesus and the Se with a church historian

A guided morning at the heart of Old Goa: the Basilica of Bom Jesus and St Francis Xavier's tomb, the Se Cathedral and its Golden Bell, and the Church of St Francis of Assisi, with a guide trained in Goan church history and art.
Bom Jesus and the Se with a church historian
Photo: iMahesh · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

We start at the Basilica of Bom Jesus at opening time, before the coaches. Your guide explains how the Jesuits built it between 1594 and 1605, why its laterite façade is bare, and the story of St Francis Xavier, whose body arrived in Goa in 1554. The tomb, a gift from Cosimo III de' Medici, was carved in Florence and shipped out in pieces. Upstairs, a gallery of modern art shows paintings on the saint's life.

Across the lawns, the Se Cathedral takes about 45 minutes. Its scale is the point: the nave is long enough to hold a small village, and the gilded reredos behind the high altar, dedicated to St Catherine of Alexandria, is one of the finest pieces of carving in India. The Golden Bell in the tower is still rung for services.

We finish at the Church of St Francis of Assisi, with its painted walls and floor of carved tombstones, and, time permitting, the Archaeological Museum next door. A light lunch in Panjim or a drive to the Divar ferry follows.

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

What are the timings of the Basilica of Bom Jesus?

The Basilica is generally open to visitors daily from morning to early evening, with services at set times, when visitors should not walk around. Hours can change for feasts and maintenance, so check current status before you travel. Entry is free.

Is photography allowed inside Old Goa churches?

Photography without flash is usually permitted in the main churches outside service times. It is not allowed in the Archaeological Museum and should be avoided during mass. Your guide will tell you the current rules at each church.

How long do you need to see the main churches of Old Goa?

Three hours is right for the Basilica, the Se Cathedral and the Church of St Francis of Assisi with a guide. Add an hour for the Archaeological Museum and another for St Augustine's tower and St Cajetan. A full morning covers the essentials comfortably.

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