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Tales of Luxury

Tea garden and orchid · India

North East India

North East India is best from October to April, when the monsoon has cleared and Kaziranga is open. We plan private journeys across Meghalaya, Assam, Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland and Sikkim, with a car, a guide and the best rooms each place offers. Allow 8 to 14 nights and sort permits early.

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North East India, in brief

Best monthsOct – Apr
Main airportsGuwahati (GAU); Bagdogra (IXB) for Sikkim; Dimapur, Jorhat, Tezpur
Ideal length8–14 nights
CurrencyIndian rupee (INR)
LanguagesAssamese, Khasi, Nepali, Hindi; English widely used
PermitsILP for Arunachal and Nagaland; PAP or RAP for foreigners
Time zoneIST (UTC+5:30); summer sunrise near 4:30 am

North East India is the part of the country that sits east of Bangladesh, joined to the rest of India by a narrow corridor near Siliguri. Within a two-hour flight of Delhi or Kolkata you reach limestone plateaus that catch more rain than almost anywhere on earth, grassland where the one-horned rhinoceros grazes in the open, and Buddhist valleys at 2,700 m under the eastern Himalaya. Few international visitors come, and the region rewards those who do.

We work in five of the eight states. In Meghalaya we base guests at Umiam Lake above Shillong and walk the living root bridges below Sohra. In Assam we pair Kaziranga with a planter's bungalow in the tea gardens near Tezpur, and Majuli with its Vaishnava monasteries. In Arunachal Pradesh the long road climbs to Dirang and Tawang, and a shorter one reaches the Apatani rice valley at Ziro.

Nagaland is Kohima, Khonoma and the Hornbill Festival each December. Sikkim, reached through Bagdogra, gives you Gangtok, the monastery ridge at Pelling and the Lachung valley near the Tibetan frontier. Each state has its own languages, food and permit rules, which is why most travellers choose two or three states rather than five, and why planning matters more here than in Rajasthan or Kerala.

Luxury in the North East is quieter than elsewhere in India. There are no palace hotels; instead there are a handful of excellent lodges, a planter's bungalow or two, a lake resort built in Khasi style, and in Sikkim two or three hotels of real polish. Between them, the best rooms are often a well-run family hotel. We are honest about that, and we fill the gap with private guides, good drivers and time.

Why go

Reasons to go, plainly

Walk to the double-decker root bridge

Below Sohra, the Khasi village of Nongriat keeps a two-tier bridge grown from the roots of rubber fig trees. The path is about 3,000 concrete steps each way. We walk it with a registered local guide in the cool dry months, when the pools beneath are clear.

Rhinos at Kaziranga at first light

Kaziranga holds the largest population of greater one-horned rhinoceros anywhere. From October or November to April we book private jeeps in the Central and Western ranges, where tall elephant grass gives way to open wetland and you can watch rhinos, wild buffalo and swamp deer at close range.

A planter's bungalow in Assam tea

At Wild Mahseer, on the Addabarie tea estate near Balipara, you stay in restored heritage bungalows inside working tea gardens. Walk the bushes with the estate team at plucking time, taste first and second flush teas, then drive 45 minutes to Nameri for a river walk.

The road to Tawang Monastery

Two days of mountain driving from the Assam plains bring you to Tawang at about 2,670 m. Its seventeenth-century monastery is the largest in India. On the way you cross the Sela Tunnel near 4,000 m and pass Monpa villages, yak pastures and the old dzong at Dirang.

Hornbill Festival in Kohima

For ten days each December, Kisama Heritage Village outside Kohima hosts the Naga tribes in their morungs, with songs, log drums, wrestling and food stalls. We arrange quiet morning visits before the crowds, an evening in Khonoma village and a historian on the Kohima War Cemetery.

Monasteries and Kanchenjunga in Sikkim

Gangtok's ridge-top hotels look across to Kanchenjunga, the world's third-highest mountain. From there we drive west to Pemayangtse and the ruins of Rabdentse at Pelling, or north up the Teesta to the Lachung valley and the rhododendron meadows of Yumthang, subject to permits.

The map

Where to go in North East India

Map of Balipara Tea Country, Dawki and Shnongpareng, Dirang, Gangtok, Guwahati, Kaziranga National Park, Kohima and Khonoma, Majuli, Mawlynnong, Nongriat, Lachung and Yumthang, North Sikkim, PellingIndiaChinaBhutanMyanmarBangladeshNepalBalipara Tea Country1Dawki and Shnongpareng2Dirang3Gangtok4Guwahati5Kaziranga National Park6Kohima and Khonoma7Majuli8Mawlynnong9Nongriat10Lachung and Yumthang, North Sikkim11Pelling12Shillong13Sohra (Cherrapunji)14Tawang15Ziro16200 kmN
  1. 1Balipara Tea Country
  2. 2Dawki and Shnongpareng
  3. 3Dirang
  4. 4Gangtok
  5. 5Guwahati
  6. 6Kaziranga National Park
  7. 7Kohima and Khonoma
  8. 8Majuli
  9. 9Mawlynnong
  10. 10Nongriat
  11. 11Lachung and Yumthang, North Sikkim
  12. 12Pelling
  13. 13Shillong
  14. 14Sohra (Cherrapunji)
  15. 15Tawang
  16. 16Ziro
Drawn by Tales of Luxury from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). Borders as depicted by India. Not for navigation.
Balipara Tea Country
tea country Balipara Tea Country

Planters' bungalows, tea gardens and the river at Nameri

Best Oct – Apr · 2–3 nights
Dawki and Shnongpareng
valley Dawki and Shnongpareng

The glass-clear Umngot river on the Bangladesh border

Best Nov – Mar · 0–1 nights
Dirang
valley Dirang

A Monpa river valley halfway to Tawang

Best Mar – May · Oct – Dec · 1–2 nights
Gangtok
hill station Gangtok

Sikkim's ridge-top capital, facing the Kanchenjunga range

Best Mar – May · Oct – Dec · 3 nights
Guwahati
city Guwahati

Gateway city on the Brahmaputra, with Kamakhya on its hill

Best Oct – Mar · 1 nights
Kaziranga National Park
national park Kaziranga National Park

Home of most of the world's one-horned rhinos

Best Nov – Mar · 2–3 nights
Kohima and Khonoma
hill station Kohima and Khonoma

Naga hill capital, war memorial and the Hornbill Festival

Best Oct – Mar · 3–5 nights
Majuli
island Majuli

Vaishnava monasteries on a great Brahmaputra river island

Best Nov – Feb · 2 nights
Mawlynnong
village Mawlynnong

A tidy Khasi village with a root bridge on its doorstep

Best Oct – Mar · 0–1 nights
Nongriat
village Nongriat

The double-decker root bridge, about 3,000 steps below Sohra

Best Oct – Mar · 0–1 nights
Lachung and Yumthang, North Sikkim
valley Lachung and Yumthang, North Sikkim

A high Sikkim valley of rhododendrons near the Tibetan frontier

Best Apr – May · Oct – Nov · 2 nights
Pelling
hill station Pelling

Monastery ridge with the closest view of Kanchenjunga

Best Mar – Apr · Oct – Dec · 2–3 nights
Shillong
hill station Shillong

Pine ridges, Khasi markets and a lake resort at the edge of town

Best Oct – Mar · 2–4 nights
Sohra (Cherrapunji)
hill station Sohra (Cherrapunji)

Waterfalls, limestone caves and the rain capital of India

Best Oct – Mar · 1–2 nights
Tawang
temple town Tawang

India's largest monastery, high in the eastern Himalaya

Best Mar – May · Oct – Nov · 2–3 nights
Ziro
valley Ziro

The Apatani rice valley and its September music festival

Best Mar – Apr · Sep – Nov · 3–4 nights

Journeys

Routes through North East India

Indicative prices per person, twin sharing, at the hotels named. Every route can be changed.

Arunachal: Apatani Ziro and Monpa Tawang
North East India · 11 nights Arunachal: Apatani Ziro and Monpa Tawang Ziro · Balipara Tea Country · Dirang · Tawang · Dirang · Balipara Tea Country From₹3,20,000 pp
Upper Brahmaputra river cruise
North East India · 8 nights Upper Brahmaputra river cruise Guwahati · Kaziranga National Park · Majuli From₹4,25,000 pp
Grand North East: Khasi Hills to Tawang
North East India · 14 nights Grand North East: Khasi Hills to Tawang Sohra (Cherrapunji) · Shillong · Kaziranga National Park · Balipara Tea Country · Dirang · Tawang · Dirang · Balipara Tea Country From₹4,60,000 pp
Hornbill Festival, Kohima and Kaziranga
North East India · 8 nights Hornbill Festival, Kohima and Kaziranga Kohima and Khonoma · Kaziranga National Park From₹2,90,000 pp
Kaziranga rhinos and Assam tea gardens
North East India · 7 nights Kaziranga rhinos and Assam tea gardens Guwahati · Kaziranga National Park · Balipara Tea Country From₹2,60,000 pp
Kaziranga rhino short break
North East India · 5 nights Kaziranga rhino short break Guwahati · Kaziranga National Park · Guwahati From₹1,65,000 pp
Meghalaya hills, Kaziranga and tea country
North East India · 10 nights Meghalaya hills, Kaziranga and tea country Sohra (Cherrapunji) · Shillong · Kaziranga National Park · Balipara Tea Country From₹3,40,000 pp
Meghalaya: root bridges, falls and a lake
North East India · 7 nights Meghalaya: root bridges, falls and a lake Shillong · Sohra (Cherrapunji) · Shillong From₹2,10,000 pp
First time in the North East: Assam and Meghalaya
North East India · 11 nights First time in the North East: Assam and Meghalaya Guwahati · Kaziranga National Park · Balipara Tea Country · Shillong · Sohra (Cherrapunji) From₹3,60,000 pp
North East honeymoon: lake, rhinos and tea
North East India · 8 nights North East honeymoon: lake, rhinos and tea Shillong · Kaziranga National Park · Balipara Tea Country From₹3,10,000 pp
Photography journey: Majuli to the Khasi Hills
North East India · 10 nights Photography journey: Majuli to the Khasi Hills Majuli · Kaziranga National Park · Shillong · Sohra (Cherrapunji) From₹3,25,000 pp
Sikkim's mountains and Meghalaya's hills
North East India · 11 nights Sikkim's mountains and Meghalaya's hills Gangtok · Pelling · Shillong · Sohra (Cherrapunji) From₹3,70,000 pp
Sikkim family holiday: Gangtok and Pelling
North East India · 7 nights Sikkim family holiday: Gangtok and Pelling Gangtok · Pelling From₹2,25,000 pp
Sikkim: monasteries, Lachung and Kanchenjunga
North East India · 9 nights Sikkim: monasteries, Lachung and Kanchenjunga Gangtok · Lachung and Yumthang, North Sikkim · Gangtok · Pelling From₹2,90,000 pp
Tawang and the Monpa valleys of Arunachal
North East India · 8 nights Tawang and the Monpa valleys of Arunachal Balipara Tea Country · Dirang · Tawang · Dirang · Balipara Tea Country From₹2,40,000 pp
Ziro Festival of Music and Assam tea country
North East India · 7 nights Ziro Festival of Music and Assam tea country Ziro · Balipara Tea Country From₹2,30,000 pp

Experiences

Hours worth planning around

All experiences →
Tea estate walk and tasting with a planter
food · 3 hours Tea estate walk and tasting with a planter Balipara Tea Country, North East India
Row the clear Umngot river at Dawki
water · 1 hour on the water Row the clear Umngot river at Dawki Dawki and Shnongpareng, North East India
A walk through the old Dirang Dzong
culture · 2 hours A walk through the old Dirang Dzong Dirang, North East India
Morning at Rumtek Monastery
spiritual · Half day Morning at Rumtek Monastery Gangtok, North East India
An early morning at Kamakhya Temple
spiritual · 3 hours An early morning at Kamakhya Temple Guwahati, North East India
Morning jeep drive in the Central range
wildlife · 2.5–3 hours Morning jeep drive in the Central range Kaziranga National Park, North East India
Kohima War Cemetery with a historian
culture · 2–3 hours Kohima War Cemetery with a historian Kohima and Khonoma, North East India
Evening prayers at a Majuli satra
spiritual · 2 hours Evening prayers at a Majuli satra Majuli, North East India
Morning walk in Asia's cleanest village
culture · 1.5 hours Morning walk in Asia's cleanest village Mawlynnong, North East India
Walk to the double-decker root bridge
adventure · 5–6 hours Walk to the double-decker root bridge Nongriat, North East India
Yumthang Valley in rhododendron season
nature · Half day Yumthang Valley in rhododendron season Lachung and Yumthang, North Sikkim, North East India
Pemayangtse Monastery and Rabdentse ruins
culture · Half day Pemayangtse Monastery and Rabdentse ruins Pelling, North East India
Walk the sacred forest at Mawphlang
nature · Half day Walk the sacred forest at Mawphlang Shillong, North East India
Nohkalikai and the Seven Sisters falls
nature · Half day Nohkalikai and the Seven Sisters falls Sohra (Cherrapunji), North East India
Morning prayers at Tawang Monastery
spiritual · 3 hours Morning prayers at Tawang Monastery Tawang, North East India
Walk the Apatani villages of Hong and Hari
culture · Half day Walk the Apatani villages of Hong and Hari Ziro, North East India

Where we book

Stays in North East India

All stays →
Ri Kynjai – Serenity by the Lake
resort · Shillong Ri Kynjai – Serenity by the Lake

A lakeside resort on the wooded shore of Umiam Lake, about 20 km north of Shillong, with cottages built in the Khasi manner of timber and …

Tripura Castle
boutique hotel · Shillong Tripura Castle

The former Shillong summer residence of the royal family of Tripura, now a small heritage hotel in the leafy Cleve Colony area. It suits travellers who …

Vivanta Guwahati
resort · Guwahati Vivanta Guwahati

A modern IHCL hotel at Khanapara on the southern edge of Guwahati, on the road to Shillong. It is the most reliable large hotel in the …

Diphlu River Lodge
safari lodge · Kaziranga National Park Diphlu River Lodge

The leading safari lodge at Kaziranga, with stilted cottages along the Diphlu river on the park's southern boundary. Stays are full board, with park jeep drives …

Wild Mahseer
plantation bungalow · Balipara Tea Country Wild Mahseer

A group of restored British-era planters' bungalows inside the Addabarie tea estate near Balipara, north of Tezpur. Rooms open onto lawns and tea gardens, the food …

Taj Guras Kutir Resort & Spa
resort · Gangtok Taj Guras Kutir Resort & Spa

A recent Taj resort and spa in the hills around Gangtok, named after the guras, Sikkim's rhododendron. It brings Taj service to Sikkim, with mountain-facing rooms, …

Mayfair Spa Resort & Casino
resort · Gangtok Mayfair Spa Resort & Casino

A large resort on the hillside below Gangtok, built in Sikkimese style with a monastery-inspired main building, a spa, an indoor pool and a casino. Rooms …

The Elgin Nor-Khill
heritage haveli · Gangtok The Elgin Nor-Khill

Gangtok's heritage hotel, built in 1932 as a guest house for the Chogyal, the former king of Sikkim, and now run by the Elgin group. Rooms …

The Elgin Mount Pandim
heritage haveli · Pelling The Elgin Mount Pandim

A heritage hotel on the ridge below Pemayangtse Monastery near Pelling, run by Elgin Hotels, with a lawn and rooms that face the Kanchenjunga range. It …

North East India by travel style

The calendar

Festivals worth the dates

Hornbill Festival
1–10 December every yearHornbill Festival

Nagaland's festival of festivals, held from 1 to 10 December at Kisama Heritage Village, 12 km from Kohima. The Naga tribes gather …

Ziro Festival of Music
Four days in late September …Ziro Festival of Music

An outdoor independent music festival held over four days each September in the Apatani valley of Ziro, Arunachal Pradesh, with artists from …

Rongali Bihu
Mid-April, from about 14 April …Rongali Bihu

Assam's spring festival and new year, celebrated from about 14 April with Bihu dances, songs, feasts and family gatherings across the state. …

Losar in Tawang
February or early March, Tibetan …Losar in Tawang

The Tibetan and Monpa new year, celebrated in Tawang, Dirang and Bomdila with prayers at the monasteries, new prayer flags, family feasts …

Ambubachi Mela
Late June, temple doors closed …Ambubachi Mela

A great annual gathering at Kamakhya Temple in Guwahati, marking the goddess's yearly menstruation. The temple doors close for three days, and …

Majuli Raas Festival
Around Kartik Purnima, usually November …Majuli Raas Festival

Majuli's great festival of devotional theatre, held over several nights around the full moon of Kartik, when satras and villages stage plays …

Shad Suk Mynsiem
April, over three days (dates …Shad Suk Mynsiem

The Khasi spring dance of thanksgiving, held over three days each April at the Weiking ground in Shillong. Young women in rich …

Getting there

Arriving in North East India

Most journeys begin at Guwahati's Lokpriya Gopinath Bordoloi International Airport (GAU), about 28 km from the city, with non-stop flights from Delhi (2.5 h), Mumbai, Kolkata and Bengaluru and a new terminal opened in December 2025. Shillong is 3 to 3.5 hours by road from the airport. For Sikkim, fly to Bagdogra (IXB) in West Bengal and drive about 4.5 hours to Gangtok. For Nagaland, use Dimapur (DMU), 74 km from Kohima. Jorhat (JRH) suits Majuli and eastern Kaziranga; Tezpur (TEZ) suits the tea country and the Tawang road; Donyi Polo Airport at Itanagar (HGI) is the gateway to Ziro. Flight routes in the region change often, so check current status before you travel.

Permits

Paperwork to know

Indian citizens need an Inner Line Permit for Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland, Mizoram and Manipur, applied for online on each state's portal; Arunachal's tourist eILP costs roughly ₹300–500 and Nagaland's ₹200 for 30 days. Foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit for Arunachal, and since December 2024 for Nagaland, Mizoram and Manipur too, arranged through a registered operator. Sikkim needs a Restricted Area Permit for foreigners and extra permits for North Sikkim, Tsomgo Lake and Nathu La. Meghalaya and Assam need none. Check current status before you travel.

Permit checker →

Guides

Read before North East India

Assam tea estates: stays, seasons and tastings
North East India · 5 min read Assam tea estates: stays, seasons and tastings

Assam grows more than half of India's tea on the flat Brahmaputra plain. Visit between March and May for first and second flush plucking, …

Brahmaputra river cruises: what to expect
North East India · 5 min read Brahmaputra river cruises: what to expect

Brahmaputra river cruises run from about November to March on small ships between Guwahati and the Jorhat or Dibrugarh area, with shore visits to …

Hornbill Festival guide: Kohima in December
North East India · 5 min read Hornbill Festival guide: Kohima in December

The Hornbill Festival runs from 1 to 10 December every year at Kisama Heritage Village, 12 km from Kohima in Nagaland. Fly to Dimapur, …

Kaziranga safari guide: zones, season and lodges
North East India · 5 min read Kaziranga safari guide: zones, season and lodges

Kaziranga has four safari ranges: Central (Kohora), Western (Bagori), Eastern (Agaratoli) and Burapahar. It opens in phases from October and closes around May. Stay …

Meghalaya's living root bridges: a walker's guide
North East India · 5 min read Meghalaya's living root bridges: a walker's guide

Meghalaya's living root bridges are grown by Khasi and Jaintia villagers from the roots of rubber fig trees. The famous double-decker bridge at Nongriat …

A 12-day first trip to North East India
North East India · 5 min read A 12-day first trip to North East India

For a first visit, spend 12 days and 11 nights in Assam and Meghalaya: one night in Guwahati, three at Kaziranga, two in the …

North East India food: a state-by-state guide
North East India · 5 min read North East India food: a state-by-state guide

North East Indian food is light on spice and heavy on fermentation, smoke and fresh herbs. Try masor tenga and duck in Assam, jadoh …

Monsoon or dry season in North East India
North East India · 5 min read Monsoon or dry season in North East India

Visit North East India between October and April for dry roads, clear mountain views and open parks. November to February is driest. The monsoon, …

North East India permits: ILP, PAP and RAP explained
North East India · 5 min read North East India permits: ILP, PAP and RAP explained

Indian citizens need an Inner Line Permit for Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland, Mizoram and Manipur. Foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit for those four …

Planning a Sikkim trip: permits, roads and hotels
North East India · 5 min read Planning a Sikkim trip: permits, roads and hotels

Fly to Bagdogra and drive 4.5 hours to Gangtok. Spend three nights there, three in Pelling for Kanchenjunga, and two in Lachung if North …

Questions travellers ask

Questions about North East India

What is the best time to visit North East India?

October to April is the best time. Rain is low from November to February, mountain views are clearest in October and November, and Kaziranga is open from October or November until about April. March and April suit Sikkim's rhododendrons and the tea gardens. June to August brings heavy monsoon rain, park closures and landslides, so we avoid it except for short Shillong stays.

Do I need a permit to visit North East India?

It depends on the state and your passport. Indians need an Inner Line Permit for Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland, Mizoram and Manipur. Foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit for Arunachal, Nagaland, Mizoram and Manipur, and a Restricted Area Permit for Sikkim. Assam and Meghalaya need no permit. We arrange all permits as part of the journey. Check current status before you travel.

How many days do I need for North East India?

Plan at least 7 nights for one state and 10 to 14 nights for two or three. Distances are short on the map but roads are slow: Guwahati to Shillong takes about 3 hours, Guwahati to Kaziranga about 5, and the Tawang road needs two days each way. Our most popular first journey is 11 nights across Meghalaya and Assam.

Is North East India safe for tourists?

The states we cover, Meghalaya, Assam, Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland and Sikkim, receive steady tourist traffic and are generally calm. Strikes, called bandhs, can close roads for a day without much warning, and monsoon landslides are a real hazard. We do not currently plan trips to Manipur, and we recommend checking your government's travel advisory before you travel.

How do I get to North East India?

Fly to Guwahati (GAU), which has non-stop flights from Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata and Bengaluru and a few international links. For Sikkim, fly to Bagdogra (IXB) and drive about 4.5 hours to Gangtok. Dimapur serves Nagaland, Jorhat serves Majuli and Tezpur serves the tea country and the Tawang road. Routes change often, so check current status before you travel.

Are there luxury hotels in North East India?

Yes, but fewer than in Rajasthan or Kerala. The best include Ri Kynjai at Umiam Lake near Shillong, Diphlu River Lodge at Kaziranga, Wild Mahseer in the tea gardens near Tezpur, Vivanta Guwahati, and in Sikkim the Taj Guras Kutir, Mayfair and Elgin Nor-Khill in Gangtok and Elgin Mount Pandim at Pelling. In Tawang, Ziro and Majuli we use the best well-run local hotels and homestays.

Can foreigners visit Arunachal Pradesh and Nagaland?

Yes, with a Protected Area Permit arranged in advance through a registered Indian operator. For Arunachal the permit usually needs at least two travellers on a fixed itinerary and a royalty of about USD 30 to 50 per person. Nagaland's permit regime was reimposed in December 2024 and was relaxed for Hornbill 2025. Rules shift, so check current status before you travel.

Which states do you cover in the North East?

We plan journeys in Meghalaya, Assam, Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland and Sikkim. These have the best mix of sights, roads and rooms for private travel. We do not currently sell Manipur because of the security situation there, and we include Tripura and Mizoram only on request. Darjeeling, although often paired with Sikkim, is in West Bengal and sits outside this region.

Can I combine Sikkim and Meghalaya on one trip?

Yes. Sikkim's gateway is Bagdogra and Meghalaya's is Guwahati, and there are direct flights between the two that take under an hour, though schedules change. Allow at least 11 nights: five or six in Sikkim and five in Meghalaya. October, November and March are the best months for both, with clear mountain views and dry walking paths.

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