Divar and Chorao islands
River islands of paddy, mangroves and hilltop churches
The Mandovi breaks into channels as it nears the sea, and between them lie low islands of paddy, mangrove and old villages. Chorao, opposite Ribandar, and Divar, opposite Old Goa, are the two largest. Neither has a bridge to the Panjim side; you cross on the flat government ferries that carry cars, scooters and villagers in five minutes, and the change of pace is immediate.
Chorao's western tip is the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary, named after India's best-known ornithologist, a small reserve of mangrove forest and tidal creeks. From November to February it holds kingfishers, herons, egrets, waders and raptors, and the creeks are explored by canoe with a forest department boatman or from a short boardwalk and watchtower.
Divar was once a pilgrimage island, and the Church of Our Lady of Compassion on its hill looks over the river to Old Goa. Below it, villages such as Piedade, Malar and Navelim sit among paddy fields, with Portuguese-era houses, small chapels and a few family-run kitchens. In August, the Bonderam festival fills the island with flag-bearing floats and music.
Highlights
What Divar and Chorao islands does best
A mangrove reserve on Chorao's western tip, explored by canoe through tidal creeks. Early mornings from November to February bring kingfishers, herons, egrets, migratory waders and raptors, and sometimes mugger crocodiles basking on the banks.
Flat government ferries cross from Ribandar to Chorao and from Old Goa to Divar in about five minutes. Standing on deck with cars, scooters and villagers is part of the pleasure, and a quick way to see the river.
The hilltop church at Piedade looks over the Mandovi to Old Goa. The present building dates from the 18th century, with a fine stucco interior, and the cemetery and views make it worth the short climb.
Divar's roads are quiet and mostly flat, ideal for an easy 15 to 20 km ride past paddy fields, mangrove edges, village chapels and old houses, with breakfast or lunch on the way.
Divar's flag festival, usually on the fourth Saturday of August, recalls old village boundary disputes with mock fights, floats and music. It is one of Goa's most local festivals, and few visitors see it.
Experiences
Four hours to plan around
Getting there
How to reach Divar and Chorao islands
Dabolim Airport (GOI) is about 32 km, roughly 50 minutes to the Ribandar ferry. Mopa (GOX) is about 50 km, around 1 h 15 min. Most guests visit from a hotel in Panjim, Candolim or the south.
Karmali station on the Konkan Railway is about 4 km from the Old Goa ferry jetty to Divar, 10 minutes by car. Madgaon station is about 40 km, 1 hour.
Drive to the Ribandar jetty (≈ 5 km · 15 min from Panjim) for Chorao, or the Old Goa jetty (≈ 10 km · 20 min) for Divar. Ferries carry cars, so your driver can come across, and crossings take about five minutes.
Where to stay
Rooms we book
There are no luxury hotels on Divar or Chorao, and we visit both as day trips. Cidade de Goa near Dona Paula, about 20 minutes from the Ribandar ferry, is the most convenient base, and it lets you be at the bird sanctuary by 7 am. From north Goa, Taj Fort Aguada and Ahilya by the Sea are about 40 minutes away. A few small homestays on Divar offer simple rooms for those who want to sleep on the island, but they are not at the standard we usually book.
From our planners
Five things to know
- Be at the Ribandar ferry by 6.45 am for the best birding light and a high tide in the creeks.
- Canoe trips depend on tides; we confirm times the day before.
- Carry binoculars, a hat and insect repellent for the mangroves.
- Ferries run frequently from early morning to late evening, but timings change in the monsoon; check current status before you travel.
- Combine Divar with Old Goa: churches in the morning, the ferry and the island in the afternoon.
Questions travellers ask
Questions about Divar and Chorao islands
Where are Divar and Chorao islands?
Both are islands in the Mandovi river, between Panjim and Old Goa on the south bank and Bardez on the north. Chorao faces Ribandar, about 5 km from Panjim, and Divar faces Old Goa. Each is reached by a five-minute government ferry.
How much time do you need for Divar and Chorao?
A full day lets you do the bird sanctuary on Chorao at dawn and Divar's church and villages later, with lunch on the island. If time is short, a morning at the sanctuary or an afternoon on Divar after Old Goa each works well on its own.
Do the ferries to Divar and Chorao carry cars?
Yes. The flat government ferries carry cars, motorbikes and foot passengers. Crossings take about five minutes and run frequently through the day. Queues can form at peak hours, so we plan around them. Check current status before you travel, especially in the monsoon.
Is the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary worth visiting?
For anyone interested in birds or mangroves, yes. It is small but easy to reach, and a canoe trip at dawn from November to February often produces several kingfisher species, herons, egrets, waders and raptors within an hour or two. It is a gentle trip for non-birders too.
Can you stay on Divar island?
There are a few small homestays and guesthouses on Divar, but no luxury hotels. We visit the island as a day trip from Cidade de Goa or a north Goa hotel. Guests who want a night on the island can stay in a simple homestay that we know.
What is the best season to visit the islands?
November to February for birding and comfortable cycling, with dry, clear weather. July to September brings the greenest paddy and the Bonderam festival in August, though rain is heavy and the canoe trips may not run. March to May is hot.
Are there crocodiles at Chorao?
Mugger crocodiles live in the Mandovi's creeks and are sometimes seen basking on mudbanks in the sanctuary, especially on sunny winter mornings. They keep their distance from boats, and the canoe trips follow forest department rules. Sightings are not guaranteed.
Is Divar island good for families?
Yes. The ferry ride, easy cycling on quiet roads, paddy fields full of birds and a picnic or lunch near the hilltop church make a relaxed day for children. Distances are short, and the island is safe and calm.
Can I combine Old Goa and Divar in one day?
Yes, and we recommend it. See the Basilica of Bom Jesus and the Se Cathedral from 9 am, then take the ferry from the Old Goa jetty, five minutes away, to Divar for lunch, the hilltop church and a slow drive or cycle around the island.
Nearby
Pair it with
The UNESCO churches of Portugal's lost Asian capital
Goa's riverside capital and its painted Latin quarter
Fort Aguada, the Reis Magos ramparts and north Goa's calmer beaches
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