A morning walk through Fontainhas
We meet at the edge of the Ourem creek at 8 am, when the lanes are still in shade. Your guide, a Panjim local, walks you through the grid of narrow streets that grew up in the 19th century as the capital moved here from Old Goa. The houses are mostly two storeys, with deep balcões, wooden shutters and lime-washed walls in strong colours, a tradition that once had to be renewed after every monsoon.
The walk takes in the 19th-century Chapel of St Sebastian, with a crucifix that once hung in the Palace of the Inquisition at Old Goa, the azulejo-tiled street signs and family name plates, and small galleries and workshops that sell hand-painted tiles. In Sao Tome, the old post office building and the square around it show the quarter's administrative past.
We end by climbing the steps to Altinho for a view over the rooftops, then walk down to a café for coffee and a slice of bebinca or a plate of chouriço pão. The pace is gentle, with stops in shade, and the walk is about 2.5 km in all.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
How long does a Fontainhas walk take?
A guided walk takes about 2 to 2.5 hours and covers about 2.5 km, including Fontainhas, Sao Tome, the Chapel of St Sebastian and a climb to Altinho. Starting at 8 am keeps the walk in shade and ahead of the day's tour groups.
Can you go inside the houses in Fontainhas?
Most houses are private homes and are not open to visitors. A few galleries, cafés and small heritage guesthouses occupy old buildings and can be entered. Your guide may be able to introduce you to a resident on the way, but always ask before photographing people or porches.
Is the Fontainhas walk suitable for older travellers?
Yes. The lanes are flat apart from the optional climb to Altinho, which has steps and a gentle road. We build in stops in shade and can arrange for the car to meet you at the top of the hill if you prefer not to walk back down.
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