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Tales of Luxury

Assagao's old houses on foot and by bicycle

A gentle walk or bicycle ride through Assagao's lanes with a local architect or historian, reading the restored Portuguese-era houses, the village church and chapels, and the paddy that still fills the valley floor.
Assagao's old houses on foot and by bicycle
Photo: Fellygomes · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Assagao's charm is in its houses. Most date from the 18th to early 20th centuries, built by Catholic families who grew rich on land, trade and later work abroad, and they share a vocabulary: raised plinths, balcões with built-in seats, carved columns, tall shuttered windows and roofs of Mangalore tile. Many were empty for decades before being restored as homes and villas.

Your guide, an architect or a local historian, leads you through the lanes between the church, the paddy and the hills, explaining how the houses were built, why the façades are coloured, and how families lived around a central courtyard. Where owners allow, you may step onto a verandah or into a garden.

The route passes small roadside crosses and chapels, a few traditional bakeries and the new cafés and design shops that have opened in old buildings. We finish with coffee or a fresh lime soda at a café in the village. In the afternoon, the ride ends at sunset over the paddy.

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

Why is Assagao so popular?

Assagao combines restored Portuguese-era houses, green paddy and quiet lanes with some of north Goa's best restaurants and cafés, all 3 km from the beach at Anjuna. It has become the most sought-after village in north Goa for villas and second homes.

Can you go inside the old houses in Assagao?

Most are private homes or villas, so visits inside depend on the owners. Our guides know several families and may be able to arrange a look at a verandah or garden. Many restored houses are now restaurants and shops, which you can enter freely.

Is Assagao better by bicycle or on foot?

Both work. A walk suits a 2 km loop around the church and the nearest lanes. A bicycle covers more ground, including the paddy and the road toward Anjuna. Roads are narrow and shared with scooters, so we ride early in the morning.

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