Shillong

Pine ridges, Khasi markets and a lake resort at the edge of town

Shillong is Meghalaya's capital at 1,525 m, about 3 hours by road from Guwahati airport. Come between October and April, stay at Ri Kynjai on Umiam Lake or in town at Tripura Castle, and use it as a base for the Khasi Hills, Sohra's root bridges and the river at Dawki. Plan three nights.

Photo: ANKAN · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Shillong spreads over a series of pine-covered ridges on the Khasi Hills plateau. The British made it the capital of Assam in 1874 and laid out a golf course, churches and bungalows with steep tin roofs, many of which survive among the newer concrete. Today it is the capital of Meghalaya and the centre of Khasi life: a matrilineal society in which family names and property pass through the youngest daughter, and in which almost everyone speaks good English.

For visitors the city is less a sight in itself than a comfortable base. Within two hours you reach the cliffs and falls of Sohra, the sacred forest at Mawphlang, the canyons at Laitlum and, a little further, the clear green Umngot river at Dawki on the Bangladesh border. The best hotel, Ri Kynjai, sits by Umiam Lake on the Guwahati side of the city, so most of our guests never fight Shillong's traffic at all except by choice.

And it is worth choosing to. The Iewduh market is one of the largest traditional markets in the North East, the Don Bosco museum explains the region's many peoples better than any book, and in the evenings Shillong's cafes play live blues and rock to a city that takes its music seriously. Come between October and April, when skies are clear and nights cool to 5 to 10 °C.

Highlights

What Shillong does best

Umiam Lake from Ri KynjaiThe reservoir 15 km before Shillong is ringed by pine and broadleaf hills. From the lakeside cottages at Ri Kynjai you watch mist lift off the water in the morning, walk forest paths, and return in the evening to a fire. It is the calmest base in Meghalaya.
Iewduh, the great Khasi marketIewduh, also called Bara Bazaar, fills a maze of lanes in the old town with betel nut, dried fish, bamboo baskets, Khasi pork and mounds of local turmeric and chillies. It is run largely by Khasi women traders. Go with a guide in the morning, on any day except the market's own rest days.
Mawphlang sacred forestAbout 25 km south-west of Shillong, the Mawphlang grove has been protected by Khasi custom for centuries. Nothing may be taken out, not even a fallen leaf. A local guide leads you past monoliths, moss-covered trees and ritual sites on a walk of about 90 minutes.
Don Bosco museum of culturesThe Don Bosco Centre for Indigenous Cultures at Mawlai is a multi-storey museum covering the peoples of the North East: costumes, weapons, musical instruments, houses and beliefs. Allow two hours, and finish on the rooftop walkway, which looks across the whole city.
Laitlum canyons at sunriseAn hour from the city, the plateau ends abruptly at Laitlum, where grassy ridges drop hundreds of metres into deep green valleys. On clear winter mornings the light comes up over the gorges and you can see the stone stairway that links the canyon villages to the plateau.

Experiences

Four hours to plan around

nature · Half day Walk the sacred forest at Mawphlang Shillong, North East India

food · 3–4 hours Iewduh market and a Khasi lunch Shillong, North East India

nature · 4 hours Sunrise over the Laitlum canyons Shillong, North East India

culture · Half day Don Bosco museum and the old town Shillong, North East India

Getting there

How to reach Shillong

Air

Most guests fly into Guwahati (GAU), which has non-stop flights from Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata and Bengaluru, and drive up in about 3 to 3.5 hours. Shillong's own airport at Umroi, 30 km from the city, has a short runway and only a few small-aircraft routes, which change often. Check current status before you travel.

Rail

Shillong has no railway. The nearest major station is Guwahati, about 100 km away, with trains from Delhi, Kolkata and other cities. From the station it is a 2.5 to 3 hour drive.

Road

The four-lane NH-6 climbs from Guwahati through Jorabat and past Umiam Lake to Shillong, about 100 km and 2.5 to 3.5 hours. Meghalaya prohibits renting private cars to tourists for self-drive, so you travel with a licensed driver. Monsoon landslides can slow the road between June and September.

Where to stay

Rooms we book

We base most guests at Ri Kynjai – Serenity by the Lake, on the forested shore of Umiam about 20 km before the city. It is calm, built in Khasi style and close enough to the Guwahati road to arrive on day one. For a stay inside Shillong, Tripura Castle in Cleve Colony is the former summer residence of the Tripura royal family, with period rooms and gardens a short drive from the old town. The upper ridges around Laitumkhrah and Cleve Colony are quieter than Police Bazaar, which is busy and noisy at night.

resort · Shillong Ri Kynjai – Serenity by the Lake

A lakeside resort on the wooded shore of Umiam Lake, about 20 km north of Shillong, with cottages built in the Khasi manner of timber and …

boutique hotel · Shillong Tripura Castle

The former Shillong summer residence of the royal family of Tripura, now a small heritage hotel in the leafy Cleve Colony area. It suits travellers who …

From our planners

Five things to know

Shillong traffic is heavy from 9 to 11 am and 4 to 7 pm, so we plan city sights outside those hours.
Meghalaya requires hotels to register every guest with the state, so carry the same photo ID you used to book.
Self-drive car rental is not allowed for tourists in Meghalaya; your driver is licensed and registered.
Sundays are quiet: many shops close and families go to church, which makes it a good day for the lake or a drive.
Nights from December to February fall to about 5 °C, so pack a warm jacket even if Guwahati feels mild.

Questions travellers ask

Questions about Shillong

Is Shillong worth visiting?

Yes, mainly as a base for the Khasi Hills. The city has a pleasant climate, good markets, museums and a lively music scene, but its real value is access: Sohra, Mawphlang, Laitlum and Dawki are all within a few hours. Stay at Umiam Lake for calm, or in town for cafes and evenings out.

How far is Shillong from Guwahati airport?

About 120 km, or 3 to 3.5 hours by car. The road is a good four-lane highway for most of the way, climbing from the Assam plains through Jorabat and past Umiam Lake. Traffic at the Guwahati and Shillong ends can add time, so we avoid peak hours where possible.

What is the best time to visit Shillong?

October to April. November to February is dry and clear, with days of 15 to 20 °C and cold nights. March and April are warmer with some thunderstorms. June to September is the monsoon, with heavy rain, cloud on the ridges and landslide risk on the roads around.

How many days should I spend in Shillong?

Three nights is right for most travellers: one day for the city, one for Mawphlang and Laitlum, and one for Dawki and Mawlynnong. Add two nights in Sohra if you want to walk to the root bridges without a very long day. Four nights at Ri Kynjai suits a slower pace.

Do I need a permit to visit Shillong?

No. Meghalaya does not require an Inner Line Permit for Indian or foreign visitors. However, every hotel must register guests with the state tourism system, and the state has announced plans for visitor registration at entry points. Carry photo ID and check current status before you travel.

Can I hire a self-drive car in Shillong?

No. Since 2025, Meghalaya has prohibited renting private vehicles to tourists for self-drive. You travel with a licensed, registered driver, which we arrange as part of every journey. Roads in the Khasi Hills are narrow and winding, so a driver who knows them is the better choice anyway.

Is Shillong safe for tourists?

Shillong is generally safe and welcoming to visitors. Take ordinary city care with valuables in crowded markets. Occasional strikes, called bandhs, can close shops and roads for a day, and we adjust plans when they are announced. Women travellers will find Khasi society relatively relaxed by Indian standards.

Where should I stay in Shillong for luxury?

Ri Kynjai – Serenity by the Lake, on Umiam Lake about 20 km before the city, is the best luxury stay in Meghalaya. For a heritage stay in town, Tripura Castle, the former summer residence of the Tripura royals, is quiet and characterful. Most other hotels in central Shillong are mid-range.

What is Shillong famous for?

Shillong is known for its pine-covered hills, Khasi matrilineal culture, colonial-era churches and bungalows, the Iewduh market and a strong tradition of rock and blues music. It is also the gateway to Sohra's waterfalls and living root bridges, and to the clear Umngot river at Dawki.