Varanasi

Dawn boats, evening aarti and the oldest lanes on the Ganges

Varanasi, on the west bank of the Ganges, is Hinduism's holiest city and one of the oldest continuously inhabited places on earth. Stay three nights, take a private boat at dawn and another for the evening aarti, walk the old lanes with a guide, and add Sarnath, 10 km away.

Photo: Vyacheslav Argenberg · CC BY 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Varanasi, also called Kashi and Banaras, stretches for about 6 km along a crescent of the Ganges, where more than 80 ghats, flights of stone steps, run down to the water. Hindus believe that dying here brings release from the cycle of rebirth, and the cremation fires at Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghats burn day and night. At the same time the ghats are where the city bathes, prays, washes, plays cricket and talks, from first light until late evening.

The day has a rhythm that rewards staying put. Before sunrise, boats slide along the ghats as bathers enter the river and the light comes up over the far, sandy bank. At dusk, priests at Dashashwamedh Ghat perform the Ganga aarti with fire, bells and incense. Between the two lie the narrow lanes of the old city, the gold-spired Kashi Vishwanath Temple, silk weavers' workshops and some of north India's best street food.

We plan Varanasi as three nights at minimum. Taj Nadesar Palace, a former royal guest house set in gardens, gives calm away from the river. BrijRama Palace, on Darbhanga Ghat, puts you directly on the water, a short walk from the aarti. Many guests split their stay between the two. A private guide, a private boat and a car for Sarnath and the weaving quarters make the city easy to understand and to enjoy.

Highlights

What Varanasi does best

A private boat at dawnA rowing boat from Assi or Darbhanga Ghat at first light passes the full sweep of ghats, from bathers and yoga groups to the smoke of Manikarnika, as the sun rises over the east bank. Allow about 90 minutes, from about 6 am in winter.
The Ganga aartiEvery evening at Dashashwamedh Ghat, young priests in matching robes perform the aarti on platforms facing the river, with brass lamps, conch shells and bells, for about 45 minutes. Watching from a boat avoids the dense crowd on the steps.
The old city lanesBehind the ghats, lanes barely wide enough for a cow wind past shrines, sweet shops and houses. A morning walk with a guide finds the Kashi Vishwanath Temple and its new corridor to the river, and the city's best kachori and lassi.
Banarasi silk weaversBanarasi brocade saris, with gold and silver threads woven into silk, are made on handlooms in Muslim weaving quarters such as Madanpura and in villages near Sarnath. A complex sari can take weeks on the loom.
SarnathTen kilometres north-east, Sarnath is where the Buddha gave his first sermon. The Dhamek Stupa, the excavated monasteries and the museum holding the Lion Capital of Ashoka make a calm half-day away from the ghats.
Music and learningVaranasi has a long classical music tradition and is home to Banaras Hindu University, whose Bharat Kala Bhavan museum holds fine miniature paintings and textiles. Private recitals can be arranged on request.

Experiences

Four hours to plan around

water · 1.5 hours A private rowing boat along the ghats at dawn Varanasi, UP & Bihar

spiritual · 2 hours The evening Ganga aarti from the water Varanasi, UP & Bihar

culture · 3 hours The old city lanes and Kashi Vishwanath Varanasi, UP & Bihar

craft · 2.5 hours The silk weavers of Banaras at their looms Varanasi, UP & Bihar

Getting there

How to reach Varanasi

Air

Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport (VNS) at Babatpur has direct flights from Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, Kolkata and other cities. It is about 25 km from the city, 45 to 75 minutes by car depending on traffic.

Rail

Varanasi Junction and Banaras stations connect to Delhi by Vande Bharat in about 8 hours and to Kolkata, Lucknow and Gaya. Winter fog can delay trains by several hours from mid-December to January.

Road

Prayagraj is about 120 km and 2.5 to 3 hours away, Lucknow about 300 km and 5.5 to 6 hours, and Bodh Gaya about 250 km and 5.5 to 6 hours along the Grand Trunk Road.

Where to stay

Rooms we book

Choose between the river and the garden. BrijRama Palace, a restored 19th-century palace on Darbhanga Ghat, puts you on the ghats, a short walk from the evening aarti, and reaches the water by its own steps. Taj Nadesar Palace, in the cantonment area, is a small former royal guest house in large gardens, calm and private. Taj Ganges, in the same grounds, is larger and well suited to families. Suryauday Haveli on Shivala Ghat is a good riverside heritage alternative. Many guests split three nights between the river and a garden hotel.

palace hotel · Varanasi BrijRama Palace

A restored early 19th-century palace on Darbhanga Ghat, directly above the Ganges, a short walk from the evening aarti at Dashashwamedh. It is the best place …

palace hotel · Varanasi Taj Nadesar Palace

A small former royal guest house of the maharajas of Benares, set in large gardens in the Varanasi cantonment. With only a handful of suites, it …

resort · Varanasi Taj Ganges

A large Taj hotel in the Nadesar Palace grounds in the Varanasi cantonment, with a big pool, gardens and family-friendly facilities, about 30 minutes from the …

From our planners

Five things to know

Do not photograph cremations at Manikarnika or Harishchandra ghats, and keep a respectful distance.
Phones, cameras, pens and bags are not allowed inside the Kashi Vishwanath Temple; leave them in the car or a locker.
Cars cannot reach the ghats, so expect a 10 to 15 minute walk or a cycle rickshaw ride from the drop-off point.
During the monsoon the river rises over the lower ghats and boat rides may be suspended; check current status before you travel.
Carry small notes for boatmen, donation boxes and offerings, and agree any extra payments through your guide.

Questions travellers ask

Questions about Varanasi

How many days do I need in Varanasi?

Three nights is ideal. That gives two dawn boat rides or one boat ride and one ghat walk, two evenings for the aarti, a morning in the old city, a half-day at Sarnath and time for the silk weavers. Two nights is the minimum; with fewer, the city feels rushed and overwhelming.

Which is better in Varanasi, BrijRama Palace or Taj Nadesar Palace?

BrijRama Palace is on Darbhanga Ghat, so the river, the aarti and the dawn boats are on your doorstep. Taj Nadesar Palace is a garden estate in the quieter cantonment, about 30 minutes from the ghats, with more space and privacy. Many guests spend two nights at one and one at the other.

Is Varanasi safe for tourists?

Yes, with ordinary care. The ghats and lanes are crowded, and touts, unofficial guides and boatmen can be persistent. A private guide solves most of this. Keep bags closed, respect the cremation ghats and avoid walking alone on the ghats very late at night. Our guests travel with a guide and car throughout.

Can I watch a cremation in Varanasi?

Cremations take place openly at Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghats, and visitors may watch from a respectful distance with a guide. Photography is strictly not allowed. Avoid touts who offer to take you closer for money. Most of our guests see the ghats from a boat and listen to their guide explain the rituals.

Is it safe to bathe in the Ganges at Varanasi?

We do not recommend bathing or drinking the water. Despite clean-up efforts, the river carries sewage and other pollution, especially near the city. Pilgrims bathe as an act of faith. If you wish to take part, touching the water to your head from the steps is a respectful alternative.

When is the best time to visit Varanasi?

October to March. November is especially good, with Dev Deepawali on Kartik Purnima. December and January are cold and foggy at dawn, which can delay flights and trains but gives the ghats a misty atmosphere. From April it is hot, and in July and August the river floods the lower ghats.

How far is Sarnath from Varanasi?

About 10 km north-east of the city centre, 30 to 45 minutes by car depending on traffic. A half-day visit covers the Dhamek Stupa, the excavated monastery ruins, the Mulagandha Kuti Vihara and the museum. The museum is closed on Fridays, so plan around that.

What should I wear in Varanasi?

Modest, loose cotton clothing that covers shoulders and knees, and slip-on shoes for temples. The ghat steps are uneven and can be slippery, so wear shoes with good grip. In December and January, dawn on the river is cold, about 8 to 10 °C, so bring a warm layer and a scarf.

Can I combine Varanasi with Bodh Gaya?

Yes. Bodh Gaya is about 250 km from Varanasi, a 5.5 to 6 hour drive along the Grand Trunk Road, or about 3 to 4 hours by train to Gaya Junction plus a short drive. Many Buddhist circuit journeys start in Varanasi, take in Sarnath and continue to Bodh Gaya, Rajgir and Nalanda.