Kathmandu
Stupas, temples and royal squares in Nepal's capital valley
Kathmandu sits in a bowl-shaped valley at about 1,400 m, ringed by hills that rise past 2,000 m. The valley floor was once a lake bed, and its fertile soil fed three Newar kingdoms, Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, whose rulers competed in temples, palaces and courtyards for centuries. UNESCO listed the Kathmandu Valley as a World Heritage Site in 1979, naming seven monument zones, and four of them lie in or at the edge of the city. The 2015 earthquake damaged many monuments; much has been carefully rebuilt and some work continues, so we check each site before you arrive.
Today the city is loud, dusty and crowded, and we plan around that. We start early, when the stupas fill with pilgrims and the air is clear, and we keep the middle of the day for a long lunch, a museum or a rest at the hotel. Distances are short but traffic is slow: Boudhanath to Durbar Square is only about 8 km yet can take 40 minutes. A private car and a guide who knows the side lanes make more difference here than almost anywhere else in Nepal.
Three nights is our usual length. That allows a day for Kathmandu's own squares and stupas, a day for Patan or Bhaktapur, and a spare morning for an Everest mountain flight, which leaves at dawn and is often delayed by weather. Travellers heading to Pokhara, Chitwan or the Everest region usually come back through Kathmandu, and we often place one more night here before the flight home, so that a delayed domestic flight never puts the international connection at risk.
Highlights
What Kathmandu does best
One of the largest stupas in the world and the centre of Kathmandu's Tibetan community. In the last hour of daylight, monks, grandmothers and young families walk clockwise around the dome, turning prayer wheels as they go. We take a rooftop table for tea first, then join the kora on foot.
Nepal's most important Hindu temple stands on the Bagmati River, with open cremation ghats along its banks. Non-Hindus cannot enter the main temple, but the river terraces, smaller shrines and the nightly aarti of lamps, bells and chanting are open to all. Quiet, respectful dress is expected.
The old royal square, also called Hanuman Dhoka, holds pagoda temples, the palace museum and Kumari Ghar, home of the Kumari, a girl worshipped as a living goddess. Several buildings were rebuilt after 2015. A foreign visitor entry fee applies; check current status before you travel.
A hilltop stupa reached by a long stone stairway on its eastern side, with the painted eyes of the Buddha looking out over the valley. Monkeys live on the hill, so we keep food out of sight. Early morning gives the softest light and the clearest view across Kathmandu.
The old trading lanes between Durbar Square and Asan have sold spices, brass, beads, cloth and vegetables for centuries. We walk them in the morning with a guide who can name what is on each stall, and stop at small street shrines that most visitors pass without noticing.
The restaurant at Dwarika's Hotel serves a multi-course Nepali tasting menu in rooms of carved Newari woodwork. It is the most complete introduction to the country's regional cooking that we know of in Kathmandu, and a fitting first or last dinner of a journey through Nepal.
Experiences
Four hours to plan around
Getting there
How to reach Kathmandu
Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM), about 5 km east of the centre, is Nepal's main gateway. There are direct flights from Delhi, about 1 h 45 min, and from several other Indian cities, the Gulf and South-East Asian hubs. Domestic flights to Pokhara, Bharatpur and Bhairahawa leave from here too; check current status before you travel.
From India, the main crossings are Sunauli, near Gorakhpur, and Raxaul–Birgunj, north of Patna. Either means a full day of hill driving to Kathmandu, about 7 to 10 hours depending on route and roadworks. We arrange this only for travellers who want the overland approach; nearly everyone flies.
No railway reaches Kathmandu. The nearest Indian railheads are Raxaul and Gorakhpur, each followed by a border crossing and a long drive into the hills. For almost every traveller, a direct flight into Kathmandu is quicker, easier and more comfortable.
Where to stay
Rooms we book
We place most guests at Dwarika's Hotel in Battisputali, a short drive from the airport and Pashupatinath, built around salvaged Newari carved woodwork, with a pool and the Krishnarpan restaurant. For a stay beside Boudhanath, Hyatt Regency Kathmandu has large grounds and a pool within walking distance of the stupa. Hotel Yak & Yeti and the Kathmandu Marriott Hotel are central, reliable choices. Gokarna Forest Resort, in old forest on the north-east edge of the valley, suits travellers who want quiet and greenery. We avoid Thamel for sleeping: it is lively but noisy late into the night.
Kathmandu's most characterful hotel, built in Newar style around brick courtyards set with carved windows, doors and pillars rescued from old valley buildings. It sits in …
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Five things to know
- Dress modestly at temples and stupas, remove shoes where asked, and always walk clockwise around stupas and prayer wheels.
- Ask before photographing people, and never photograph cremations at Pashupatinath at close range.
- Keep the middle of a sightseeing day for rest, as traffic and dust are tiring and the light is flat by noon.
- Plan a spare night in Kathmandu before your international flight, as mountain and domestic flights are often delayed by weather.
- Carry small Nepalese rupee notes for entry fees, offerings and tea, as cards work in hotels but rarely in the old bazaars.
Questions travellers ask
Questions about Kathmandu
How many days do I need in Kathmandu?
Three nights is right for most travellers. That gives one full day for Kathmandu's own stupas and squares, one for Patan or Bhaktapur, and a spare morning for an Everest mountain flight or simply rest. With only two nights, choose between Patan and Bhaktapur. We also suggest one night in Kathmandu before your flight home, as domestic flights are often delayed.
What is the best time to visit Kathmandu?
October and November are the best months, with clear skies, mountain views from the valley rim and daytime temperatures in the low 20s °C. February to April is also good, though haze builds by May. December and January are clear but cold at night, close to 2 °C. June to September is the monsoon, with heavy rain, cloud and slower roads.
Do Indian citizens need a visa for Nepal?
No. Indian nationals need no visa and can enter Nepal with a valid passport or voter ID card. Most other nationalities can get a visa on arrival at Kathmandu airport, currently USD 30 for 15 days, USD 50 for 30 days or USD 125 for 90 days. Rules on accepted documents and fees can change, so check current status before you travel.
Can I use Indian rupees in Kathmandu?
Indian rupee notes of 100 and below are widely accepted in shops and restaurants. Rules on higher-denomination Indian notes change from time to time, so check current status before you travel. We suggest changing some money into Nepalese rupees at the airport or hotel and carrying small notes for entry fees and tips. Cards work in hotels and larger shops, rarely in the old bazaars.
Is Kathmandu safe for tourists?
Yes, Kathmandu is generally safe, and violent crime against visitors is rare. The real risks are traffic, uneven pavements, dust and occasional pickpocketing in crowded markets. Strikes, called bandhs, can close roads for a day, and our team watches the news and adjusts plans. Drink bottled or filtered water and keep valuables in the hotel safe.
Where is the best place to stay in Kathmandu?
We usually recommend Dwarika's Hotel in Battisputali, close to the airport and Pashupatinath, for its Newari architecture, pool and Krishnarpan restaurant. Hyatt Regency Kathmandu suits those who want to walk to Boudhanath. Gokarna Forest Resort is quieter, on the forested edge of the valley. We avoid Thamel for sleeping, as it stays noisy until late.
Can I see Everest from Kathmandu?
Not from the city itself. Everest lies about 160 km to the east and is hidden by nearer ranges. The easiest way to see it is a mountain flight, about one hour at dawn from Kathmandu, which flies along the Himalaya without landing. A helicopter tour of four to five hours lands briefly near Kala Patthar, weather permitting, with breakfast at Hotel Everest View.
How do I get from Kathmandu airport to my hotel?
Tribhuvan International Airport is about 5 km from central Kathmandu. Our driver meets you outside arrivals with a name board and takes you to the hotel. Dwarika's Hotel is about 10 to 15 minutes away, while hotels near Durbar Square or Thamel take 30 to 45 minutes depending on traffic. Immigration and baggage can take an hour at busy times.
What should I wear when visiting temples in Kathmandu?
Cover shoulders and knees, and wear shoes that slip off easily, as you remove them in monasteries and some temple courtyards. Leather items are not allowed inside some Hindu temples. A light scarf is useful for women. In winter, mornings are cold, so bring layers. Comfortable walking shoes matter more than anything else on uneven stone streets.
Journeys
Routes that stop in Kathmandu
Nearby
Pair it with
Newar temples, a palace museum and bronze casters across the river
Brick squares, potters and the five-tiered Nyatapola temple
A Himalayan view and a wellness retreat an hour from Kathmandu
Shape your own journey Tell us your dates and what you hope to feel. We draw the route around you. Begin Not sure where to start? We match the land to your month, your pace and the people travelling with you. Begin Talk to a planner A first route and an indicative price within one working day. No payment to start. Begin