Private journeys in seven lands · a planner replies within one working day
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Fourteen nights from the rain-carved Khasi Hills to the Buddhist high valleys of western Arunachal: root bridges and waterfalls in Sohra, Ri Kynjai on Umiam Lake, rhinos at Kaziranga, a planter's bungalow at Wild Mahseer, and the great road over the Sela range to Tawang Monastery.
This is our longest single journey in the North East, and it covers three very different worlds. It begins in Meghalaya, with two nights in Sohra for the falls and the root bridge walk and two at Ri Kynjai on Umiam Lake. Then it drops to the Assam plains for three nights at Diphlu River Lodge and Kaziranga's rhinos, and crosses the Brahmaputra to the tea gardens.
From Wild Mahseer the road climbs into Arunachal Pradesh, through Bomdila to the Dirang valley and over the Sela range at about 4,000 m to Tawang, where you spend three nights around India's largest monastery. The return retraces the road, with a night in Dirang and a final night in the tea gardens. Permits for Arunachal are arranged in advance.
Highlights
Day by day
Your guide meets you at Guwahati airport for the climb into the Khasi Hills, with lunch at Umiam Lake and a stop at the Mawkdok valley viewpoint. Arrive in Sohra in the late afternoon at a hotel chosen for its position near the root bridge trail, and watch the evening light over the gorges.
Start at Tyrna by 7 am with your registered guide and descend about 3,000 steps through forest and over suspension bridges to Nongriat's double-decker root bridge. Swim in the pools in the dry months, then climb back up. In the late afternoon, if you have energy, see Nohkalikai Falls from the viewpoint near town.
A morning at Mawsmai cave and the Seven Sisters falls, then the drive back across the plateau with a guided walk in the sacred forest at Mawphlang. Arrive at Ri Kynjai on Umiam Lake in the afternoon and rest by the water.
A full day to the Umngot river on the Bangladesh border. Row the clear water at Dawki, sit by the river at Shnongpareng, and in the afternoon walk Mawlynnong and the root bridge at Riwai. Return to the lake for dinner. Planned for Monday to Saturday.
After an early breakfast, drive down from the hills and east across the plains via Nagaon to Kaziranga, with a lunch stop. Arrive at Diphlu River Lodge in the late afternoon and settle into your stilted cottage.
An early private jeep drive in the Central range among rhinos, wild buffalo, swamp deer and elephants, and an afternoon drive in the Western range with its wide grassland views. Midday is for rest at the lodge.
A morning drive in the range with the best recent sightings, then a slow midday and an afternoon in the Eastern range for wetland birds and otters. Your guide reviews the Arunachal permits and briefs you on the mountain road ahead.
Cross the Brahmaputra near Tezpur and drive to Wild Mahseer in the Addabarie tea estate. After lunch, walk the gardens with the estate team, visit the factory in season and taste the teas. An early dinner before the mountains.
Through the Bhalukpong gate, where permits are checked, and up the Kameng valley through forest to Bomdila at about 2,400 m for lunch and its monastery. Descend into the Dirang valley in the afternoon and walk the old stone dzong village before dinner.
Climb through fir forest to the Sela range. In clear weather we cross the old pass at about 4,170 m for its sacred lake and prayer flags; otherwise the tunnel takes you through. Stop at the Jaswantgarh memorial and Nuranang falls, then climb to Tawang and rest.
Morning prayers in the assembly hall of Tawang Monastery, founded in 1680–81, followed by its library and museum. In the afternoon, visit Urgelling, birthplace of the sixth Dalai Lama, and a hillside nunnery for butter tea with the nuns.
Indian citizens with Army permission can drive by 4x4 to Bum La, at about 4,600 m on the Chinese border, and to Sangetsar Tso. Foreign travellers spend the day in Monpa villages around Tawang, at the war memorial and on a gentle walk with valley views.
Drive back over or under the Sela range to Dirang, arriving in the afternoon. In winter, look for black-necked cranes in Sangti Valley; at other times, visit the hot springs or walk the orchards.
The long descent via Bomdila and Bhalukpong to the Assam plains and Wild Mahseer, arriving in the afternoon for a walk in the tea gardens, a hot bath and a final dinner in the planter's bungalow.
A slow breakfast, then the drive to Guwahati airport along the north bank of the Brahmaputra, with lunch on the way. Tezpur, 45 minutes away, is an alternative if flights suit.
Included
Not included
Where you sleep
A lakeside resort on the wooded shore of Umiam Lake, about 20 km north of Shillong, with cottages built in the Khasi manner of timber and …
The leading safari lodge at Kaziranga, with stilted cottages along the Diphlu river on the park's southern boundary. Stays are full board, with park jeep drives …
A group of restored British-era planters' bungalows inside the Addabarie tea estate near Balipara, north of Tezpur. Rooms open onto lawns and tea gardens, the food …
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Questions travellers ask
It covers Meghalaya, Kaziranga, the Assam tea country and western Arunachal at a full but sensible pace. Sikkim and Nagaland would need separate time. For most travellers, this is as much as one journey should hold.
November, March and April are best, when Kaziranga is open, Meghalaya is dry and the Tawang road is clear. December to February is good for Kaziranga and Meghalaya, but Tawang is very cold with possible snow. We avoid May to October.
Yes, for Arunachal Pradesh. Indians need an eILP, and foreigners a Protected Area Permit arranged through a registered operator, usually for at least two travellers. Meghalaya and Assam need none. We arrange all permits.
Several long days of 5 to 7 hours, particularly Shillong to Kaziranga and the mountain roads to and from Tawang. We place rest days around them and use comfortable vehicles. The scenery on the Tawang road makes the hours pass.
Moderately. The Nongriat walk is demanding, with about 3,000 steps each way, but optional. Altitude at Tawang, about 2,670 m, and on the Sela range needs care. Otherwise walks are short. We adjust for your fitness.
From about ₹4,60,000 per person, twin sharing, including hotels and lodges, all meals, private vehicles and guide, safaris, permits and entry fees. Prices vary with season and room choices. Flights are extra.
Yes, with a Protected Area Permit for Arunachal, usually for two or more travellers. Foreigners cannot visit Bum La, so day 12 is spent around Tawang instead. Everything else is open.
Yes. Majuli adds two nights between Kaziranga and the tea country. Ziro adds three nights, flying into Itanagar and driving down to the tea country before Tawang. Either extends the journey to 16 or 17 nights.
Ri Kynjai, Diphlu River Lodge and Wild Mahseer are the comfort anchors, with eight of the fourteen nights. Sohra, Dirang and Tawang are simpler, and we choose the warmest and best-run rooms available.
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