Dawki and Shnongpareng
The glass-clear Umngot river on the Bangladesh border
The Umngot leaves the Jaintia and Khasi hills through a deep wooded gorge and spills onto the plains of Bangladesh at Dawki, a small trading town at the border crossing to Tamabil. For most of the dry season the river runs slow and so clear that the shadow of each wooden boat falls sharply on the stones several metres below. Photographs of this effect have made Dawki one of the most visited places in Meghalaya.
The town itself is busy and functional, with trucks queuing for the border and boatmen waiting at the ghat. The quieter way to see the river is a few kilometres upstream at Shnongpareng, a Khasi village that manages its own stretch of bank, with clean campsites, a suspension footbridge and rocky pools for swimming in the dry months. We generally take guests to Shnongpareng first and to Dawki's ghat only if they want the classic view.
The river is at its clearest between November and April. Monsoon rain turns it brown and fast, and boating usually stops. A day here combines easily with Mawlynnong village and the Riwai root bridge, about an hour away, or with Krang Suri Falls in the Jaintia Hills on a separate outing.
Highlights
What Dawki and Shnongpareng does best
From November to April the Umngot runs so clear that small wooden boats appear to hang above the riverbed. A slow row upstream from the ghat takes 30 to 45 minutes. Boats are priced per boat rather than per person, so agree the fare at the ghat before you set off.
A short drive upstream, the village of Shnongpareng keeps a cleaner, quieter stretch of river, with a hanging footbridge, rock ledges for sitting and pools for swimming. It has a well-managed riverside area run by the community, and the light in the gorge is best in the late morning.
A single-span suspension bridge built in 1932 carries the road over the Umngot gorge above Dawki. From it you look straight down on the boats. Traffic is one-way at a time, so it is better seen from the bank or a stop on the approach.
In the Jaintia Hills north-east of Dawki, Krang Suri drops into a wide pool of startling blue. A path with steps leads down from the car park. It is best from October to December, when water levels are moderate and the pool is clear.
The Dawki–Tamabil land border is a working trade crossing. The flat green plains of Sylhet begin abruptly where the hills end, and from the riverside you see the change in landscape between the two countries.
Experiences
Four hours to plan around
Getting there
How to reach Dawki and Shnongpareng
Guwahati (GAU) is the nearest major airport, about 5.5 hours away via Shillong. We do not suggest arriving and going straight to Dawki; spend a night in Shillong first.
There is no railway in Meghalaya's hills. Guwahati station is about 185 km away.
From Shillong, the road runs south-east through Pynursla and down the escarpment to Dawki, about 85 km and 2.5 to 3 hours. The last section has steep hairpins. Combining Dawki with Mawlynnong makes a natural loop. You travel with a licensed driver; self-drive rental is not allowed for tourists in Meghalaya.
Where to stay
Rooms we book
There is no luxury accommodation at Dawki or Shnongpareng. The village runs simple riverside campsites and there are a few basic guesthouses, which appeal to those who want to see the river at dawn. We base our guests in Shillong, at Ri Kynjai on Umiam Lake or at Tripura Castle in town, and make Dawki a full day, leaving at about 7 am to be on the water before the late-morning crowds.
From our planners
Five things to know
- Boat fares are set per boat, not per person, so agree the price at the ghat before you board.
- Weekends and holidays bring long boat queues; go on a weekday and be on the river before 10:30 am.
- Boating usually stops from June to September, when the river runs high and muddy.
- Bring a dry bag for phones and cameras, and leave valuables in the car.
- Carry your passport or Indian ID near the border, as there may be checks on the approach road.
Questions travellers ask
Questions about Dawki and Shnongpareng
How far is Dawki from Shillong?
About 85 km, which takes 2.5 to 3 hours by car via Pynursla. The final section descends steep hairpins to the river. It makes a full day trip, especially when combined with Mawlynnong and the Riwai root bridge on the same road.
What is the best time to visit Dawki?
November to April, when the Umngot is slow and clear. December to March gives the clearest water. During the monsoon from June to September the river turns brown, rises quickly and boating usually stops. October can be good in a dry year.
Why is the water at Dawki so clear?
The Umngot drains forested limestone hills with little silt in the dry season, and in winter the flow slows and settles. Low rainfall from November to April means little runoff, so the water stays clear enough to see the riverbed several metres down. Monsoon rains change that completely.
Is Dawki crowded?
On weekends and holidays, yes, with long queues for boats at the main ghat. On weekdays and early in the morning it is much quieter. We start from Shillong at about 7 am, visit Shnongpareng upstream first and avoid public holidays where we can.
Can I stay overnight at Dawki?
Only in simple guesthouses or village campsites at Shnongpareng. There is no luxury accommodation. We base guests in Shillong and make Dawki a day trip. Campers who stay overnight get the river at dawn, which is lovely but basic.
Can I combine Dawki and Mawlynnong in one day?
Yes, and it is our usual plan. Mawlynnong and the Riwai root bridge are about an hour from Dawki on the same route from Shillong. Leave Shillong at about 7 am, visit Dawki and Shnongpareng in the morning, and Mawlynnong after lunch. Note that Mawlynnong has barred day visitors on Sundays.
Is the Dawki boat ride suitable for children?
Yes. The boats move slowly on calm water in the dry season, and life jackets are provided. Children should stay seated in the narrow boats. Shnongpareng's shallow edges are good for paddling with an adult nearby.
Do I need a permit for Dawki?
No permit is needed to visit Dawki, Shnongpareng or the riverside. As Dawki is a border area, carry your passport or photo ID, as security checks can occur on the approach. Crossing into Bangladesh requires a valid visa and the correct port of entry.
What should I wear for a day at Dawki?
Light clothes, sun protection and sandals or shoes with grip for wet rocks. Bring swimwear and a towel if you plan to swim at Shnongpareng, and a dry bag for phones. Mornings in winter are cool on the drive, so add a light jacket.
Nearby
Pair it with
A tidy Khasi village with a root bridge on its doorstep
Pine ridges, Khasi markets and a lake resort at the edge of town
Waterfalls, limestone caves and the rain capital of India
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