Kohima and Khonoma
Naga hill capital, war memorial and the Hornbill Festival
Kohima spreads along a ridge of the Naga Hills close to the Manipur border, a town of churches, steep lanes and houses clinging to the slopes. It is the capital of Nagaland and the heartland of the Angami Naga, one of the state's major tribes. In April 1944 it was the scene of one of the hardest battles of the Second World War, when British and Indian troops halted the Japanese advance into India, and the town's war cemetery is among the most moving in Asia.
Today Kohima is best known to travellers for the Hornbill Festival, held from 1 to 10 December at Kisama Heritage Village, 12 km south of the town. For ten days, the Naga tribes gather in their morungs, the traditional dormitory houses, with dances, songs, games, crafts and food. It is one of the great cultural events of India and fills every good room in Kohima.
Outside the festival, the Kohima region rewards a slower visit. Khonoma, about 20 km west, is an Angami village of stone terraces and gates that banned hunting in its forests in the late 1990s and has become a model for community conservation. To the south, Dzukou Valley, reached on foot from Viswema or Zakhama, is a high grassland valley famous for its summer lilies and winter frost.
Highlights
What Kohima and Khonoma does best
Laid out on the slopes of Garrison Hill, where the fiercest fighting of 1944 took place, the cemetery holds the graves of more than 1,400 Commonwealth soldiers. The terraced lawns include the tennis court where the front line ran, and a memorial to the 2nd Division.
From 1 to 10 December, Kisama Heritage Village hosts the Naga tribes in their morungs, with daily performances, traditional sports, crafts and food stalls. Mornings are quieter and best for photography; evenings bring music in Kohima town.
Khonoma is an Angami village of stone houses, carved gates and terraced rice fields, with a long history of resistance to British rule. Since the late 1990s its people have protected surrounding forest from hunting and logging, and visitors can walk its terraces with a village guide.
At about 2,400 m on the Nagaland–Manipur border, Dzukou is a wide valley of rolling grassland and bamboo, with streams winding through it. In June and July it is known for the Dzukou lily; in winter frost covers the grass. It is reached by a steep hike of 3 to 4 hours.
Kohima's local market sells smoked pork, fermented bamboo shoot, axone, river snails, larvae and the fierce raja mircha chilli. With a guide you can taste Naga dishes in a family kitchen, where smoked meat cooked with bamboo shoot is the essential flavour.
Experiences
Four hours to plan around
Getting there
How to reach Kohima and Khonoma
Dimapur (DMU) has flights from Kolkata, Guwahati and Delhi, though routes change. Kohima is about 74 km, or 2.5 to 3 hours by road. Check current status before you travel.
Dimapur railway station has trains from Guwahati and beyond, including the Rajdhani. A rail line to Kohima has been under construction for some years. From Dimapur, continue by road.
NH-29 links Dimapur to Kohima, about 74 km and 2.5 to 3 hours on a winding hill road that has been widened in stages. From Kaziranga it is about 200 km and 5 to 6 hours via Golaghat and Dimapur. Delays are common in the monsoon.
Where to stay
Rooms we book
Kohima has no luxury hotels, and its few comfortable properties are booked months ahead for Hornbill. The best options are a handful of well-run hotels in the upper town, small heritage guesthouses in former colonial bungalows, and family homestays in Kohima and Kigwema, close to Kisama. We secure rooms by July for the festival. In Khonoma, simple village homestays allow an overnight in the green village itself.
From our planners
Five things to know
- Indians need a Nagaland ILP (about ₹200 for 30 days, online); foreigners need a Protected Area Permit; check current status before you travel.
- Nagaland is a dry state, and alcohol is officially prohibited; do not bring it in.
- For Hornbill, book rooms by July and visit Kisama in the mornings, when crowds are smaller.
- Ask before photographing people, especially elders in traditional dress outside the festival.
- Sundays are for church in Nagaland; many shops and restaurants close, so plan quiet activities.
Questions travellers ask
Questions about Kohima and Khonoma
Do I need a permit to visit Kohima?
Yes. Indian citizens need a Nagaland Inner Line Permit, applied for online at about ₹200 for 30 days. Foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit, reimposed in December 2024, plus a Nagaland ILP of about ₹500; the permit rule was relaxed for Hornbill 2025. Check current status before you travel.
When is the Hornbill Festival?
The Hornbill Festival runs from 1 to 10 December every year at Kisama Heritage Village, about 12 km from Kohima. It brings together the Naga tribes with dances, games, crafts and food. Book rooms by July, as accommodation sells out early.
How far is Kohima from Dimapur?
About 74 km, or 2.5 to 3 hours by road on NH-29. Dimapur has the nearest airport and a major railway station. The road climbs steeply into the Naga Hills and can be slow in the monsoon.
What is the best time to visit Kohima?
October to April. December has the Hornbill Festival and cool, dry weather; October and November give the clearest views. June to September is the monsoon, with heavy rain and slow roads, though Dzukou's lilies bloom then.
How many days do I need in Kohima?
Three nights cover the War Cemetery, Khonoma and either the Dzukou hike or a market and food day. For Hornbill, plan four or five nights so you can attend several days at Kisama and still explore the area.
Is Kohima safe for tourists?
Kohima is generally safe and welcoming. Occasional strikes can close roads and shops for a day. Kohima is near the Manipur border, and we do not travel into Manipur. Check your government's advisory and current status before you travel.
Are there luxury hotels in Kohima?
No. Kohima has a few well-run hotels, small heritage guesthouses and good family homestays, but nothing at a luxury level. We choose the most comfortable available and book early for Hornbill. Some guests prefer homestays near Kisama for easy festival access.
Is Nagaland a dry state?
Yes. Nagaland has prohibited the sale of alcohol since 1989 under state law. Some hotels and events may serve drinks in practice, but you should not rely on it or bring alcohol in. Check current status before you travel.
Can I combine Kohima with Kaziranga?
Yes. Kaziranga is about 5 to 6 hours by road from Kohima via Dimapur, or you can fly from Dimapur to Guwahati. A typical plan is five nights in Kohima for Hornbill and three at Kaziranga, ending at Jorhat or Guwahati.
Journeys
Routes that stop in Kohima and Khonoma
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