Sikkim in brief
Sikkim is India's second-smallest state, a wedge of the eastern Himalaya between Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan, rising from the subtropical Teesta valley at a few hundred metres to Kanchenjunga, the world's third-highest mountain, at 8,586 m. Until 1975 it was an independent kingdom ruled by the Chogyals, and its Buddhist heritage, Lepcha and Bhutia cultures and Nepali majority give it a character distinct from the rest of India.
For travellers, Sikkim offers some of the best hotels in the North East, clean and orderly towns, mountain views, monasteries and high valleys of rhododendrons. Distances on the map are small, but roads are slow, steep and winding, and landslides are part of life. Planning around them is the key to a good trip. We divide the state into four areas: Gangtok and the east, Pelling and the west, the high north around Lachung and Lachen, and the south around Ravangla and Namchi.
Each area has its own character. Gangtok is the capital and hub, with monasteries, institutes, markets and the best hotels. The west, around Pelling and Yuksom, holds Sikkim's oldest monasteries and the closest view of Kanchenjunga. The north, beyond Mangan, is high, cold and dramatic, with the valleys of Lachung and Lachen climbing towards Tibet. The south, around Ravangla and Namchi, is gentler, with tea gardens, giant statues and good walking. Most first visits combine Gangtok and Pelling, adding the north when it is open.
Getting there
The main gateway is Bagdogra airport, near Siliguri in West Bengal, with flights from Delhi, Kolkata, Mumbai, Bengaluru and Guwahati. From Bagdogra, Gangtok is about 125 km, or 4.5 hours by road along NH-10 and the Teesta valley, and Pelling about 135 km, or 5 to 5.5 hours. New Jalpaiguri railway station, close to Siliguri, is the nearest major station.
Pakyong airport, about 30 km from Gangtok, opened in 2018, but its flights have been intermittent and often disrupted by weather, so we do not rely on it. NH-10 itself is regularly affected by landslides, particularly in the monsoon, and alternative routes add hours. A railway to Rangpo on the Sikkim border is under construction. Check current status before you travel.
Permits explained
Sikkim's permits differ for Indian and foreign travellers, and for different parts of the state. The table summarises the main rules as we understand them; check current status before you travel.
| Area | Indian citizens | Foreign nationals |
|---|---|---|
| Gangtok, Pelling, south and west Sikkim | No permit | Restricted Area Permit (free) |
| Tsomgo Lake | Permit via registered operator | Permit via operator, usually two or more travellers |
| Nathu La | Permit, set days only | Not permitted |
| North Sikkim: Lachung, Yumthang | Permit via operator, local vehicle | PAP via operator, two or more travellers |
| Lachen, Gurudongmar | Permit via operator | Restricted; check current rules |
| Treks to Dzongri, Goecha La | Trekking permit | Trekking permit |
North Sikkim after the floods
In October 2023, a glacial lake outburst in the upper Teesta basin sent a flood down the valley. It destroyed the dam at Chungthang, washed away sections of road and bridges, and cut off North Sikkim for a long period. In later monsoons, further landslides closed the region again, and repairs have continued since. Access has reopened in phases, with permits, vehicle rules and timings controlled by the authorities.
This affects planning in three ways. First, confirm North Sikkim's status shortly before you travel, not just when you book. Second, keep a fallback: if Lachung is closed, we replace it with extra nights in Gangtok, Ravangla or Pelling. Third, build a spare day into any journey that includes the north, as roads can close for a day without warning. Check current status before you travel.
Where to stay
Sikkim has the strongest luxury hotel offering in the North East, concentrated in Gangtok and Pelling. In Gangtok, Taj Guras Kutir Resort & Spa brings Taj service, a spa and quiet grounds outside the busy centre. Mayfair Spa Resort & Casino has generous rooms, an indoor heated pool and a spa, and suits families. The Elgin Nor-Khill, built in 1932 as the royal guest house, is central, full of character and walkable to MG Marg.
In Pelling, the Elgin Mount Pandim sits below Pemayangtse Monastery with a lawn facing the Kanchenjunga range, and is the place to stay for the mountain at dawn. In Lachung, there are no luxury hotels; small lodges with heated rooms and simple food are the best available. Ravangla and the south have a few good resorts that make useful alternatives when the north is closed.
We match hotels to the journey. For couples and those seeking quiet, Taj Guras Kutir in Gangtok and the Elgin Mount Pandim in Pelling make a fine pair. For families, Mayfair's pool and space are hard to beat. For history lovers, a night or two at the Elgin Nor-Khill adds the feel of old royal Gangtok. Book early for October, November and the Indian school holidays in May, when the best rooms fill months ahead.
When to go
October to December gives the clearest mountain views, with crisp air after the monsoon and frequent clear dawns at Pelling and Gangtok. Days are mild and nights cold. March to May is spring, with rhododendrons flowering across the hills and in Yumthang, warmer days and more haze. January and February are cold, with snow at Tsomgo and in the north, sometimes closing roads, but skies are often clear.
June to September is the monsoon. Rain is heavy, cloud hides the mountains for days, landslides affect NH-10 and the roads north, and North Sikkim is frequently closed. We do not plan Sikkim journeys in these months except for short stays in Gangtok.
Indian school holidays in May and around Diwali in October or November bring large numbers of domestic visitors to Gangtok and Tsomgo, so book early and expect busier viewpoints at those times.
Sample routes
These outlines show how the pieces fit. All start and end at Bagdogra.
- Five nights: Gangtok 3 with Rumtek and Tsomgo Lake; Pelling 2 for Kanchenjunga and Pemayangtse.
- Seven nights: Gangtok 4, Pelling 3, at a family-friendly pace.
- Nine nights: Gangtok 3, Lachung 2, Gangtok 1, Pelling 3, with Yumthang if North Sikkim is open.
- Eleven nights: Gangtok 3, Pelling 3, then a flight from Bagdogra to Guwahati for Meghalaya, 5 nights.
Practical tips
Plan mountain viewing for dawn, as cloud builds by mid-morning even in good weather. Carry warm layers year-round for high places such as Tsomgo at about 3,750 m and Yumthang at about 3,560 m, and move slowly there. Sikkim restricts plastic in many areas, so bring a refillable bottle. Smoking and littering are fined in public places, and MG Marg in Gangtok is pedestrian only.
Travel with an experienced local driver; mountain roads demand it, and North Sikkim requires locally registered vehicles. Allow realistic times: the 125 km from Gangtok to Pelling takes about 5 hours, and Gangtok to Lachung 5 to 6 hours. Darjeeling, often paired with Sikkim, is in West Bengal and about 4 hours from Gangtok or Pelling; we can add it, but most guests find Pelling's view and monasteries the better use of mountain nights.
Finally, respect local customs at monasteries: walk clockwise around shrines and stupas, remove shoes where asked, dress modestly and ask before photographing monks or ceremonies. A small donation is customary at smaller gompas.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
How many days do I need for Sikkim?
Five nights covers Gangtok and Pelling. Seven nights allows a relaxed pace. Nine nights adds North Sikkim's Lachung and Yumthang, if open. Distances are short, but roads are slow, so plan generously.
Do foreigners need a permit for Sikkim?
Yes. Foreign nationals need a Restricted Area Permit, which is free and issued at Rangpo, Bagdogra, online or through Indian missions. Tsomgo Lake and North Sikkim need extra permits through registered operators. Check current status before you travel.
Do Indians need a permit for Sikkim?
Not for Gangtok, Pelling or most of the state. Indians need permits for Tsomgo Lake, Nathu La and North Sikkim, arranged through registered operators, usually a day in advance with ID and photographs.
Is North Sikkim open?
Access has varied since the October 2023 Teesta flood and later landslides, with closures and phased reopenings. Confirm status shortly before you travel and keep a fallback plan. Check current status before you travel.
What is the nearest airport to Gangtok?
Bagdogra, near Siliguri, about 125 km or 4.5 hours by road. Pakyong airport, about 30 km from Gangtok, has had intermittent flights often disrupted by weather, so we do not rely on it.
What is the best time to visit Sikkim?
October to December for clear mountain views, and March to May for rhododendrons. January and February are cold but often clear. June to September is the monsoon, with landslides and cloud, and we avoid it.
What are the best hotels in Sikkim?
In Gangtok, Taj Guras Kutir Resort & Spa, Mayfair Spa Resort & Casino and the Elgin Nor-Khill. In Pelling, the Elgin Mount Pandim. Lachung has only simple lodges. We choose based on your style and route.
Can I see Kanchenjunga from Gangtok?
Yes, on clear days, especially at dawn between October and April. Pelling, which faces the massif more directly, gives the closer and larger view, and we include it in most Sikkim journeys.
Is Sikkim safe for tourists?
Yes. Sikkim is one of India's safest and most orderly states. The main risks are mountain roads, landslides in the monsoon and altitude at Tsomgo and Yumthang. Travel with an experienced driver and follow local guidance.
