Evening prayers at a Majuli satra

A satra is laid out around the namghar, a long open prayer hall with a shrine at one end holding the sacred text rather than an idol, since the Ekasarana tradition founded by Sankardeva worships through devotion and recitation. Around the hall stand rows of monks' quarters called hatis, often with gardens and ponds. The larger satras, such as Auniati and Dakhinpat, have museums of old manuscripts, royal gifts and ritual objects.

We arrive in the late afternoon, walk the grounds and visit the museum if open, then sit at the side of the namghar as the evening prayer begins. Monks in white chant and sing to the rhythm of large cymbals and the khol drum, a sound that fills the hall. Visitors are welcome to watch quietly.

Afterwards your guide arranges tea with a monk who speaks English or with a translator. Conversations range from daily routine to the satra's history, its lands, its plays and how young novices are trained. Dress modestly, leave shoes outside and ask before taking any photograph.