Jawai
Leopards on granite hills among herders and temples
Jawai takes its name from the Jawai Bandh, a dam built on the Jawai river by the Jodhpur state in the mid-20th century. The reservoir behind it is the largest in western Rajasthan, and the land around it is scrub, farmland and steep hills of granite with caves and ledges. Those caves are home to leopards, which have lived alongside people here for as long as anyone remembers.
What makes Jawai unusual is the relationship between the cats and the community. The Rabari, semi-nomadic herders known for their red turbans, graze goats and cattle on the hills, and village temples sit on the same rocks the leopards use. Attacks on people are almost unknown, and livestock losses are accepted as part of life. The result is leopards that can be watched in the open, at length.
There are no zones, gates or permit queues here. Drives go out at dawn and late afternoon with experienced naturalists, and sightings often come on rock faces in good light. We suggest three nights, ideally between Jodhpur and Udaipur, which are each about three hours away. Add an evening by the reservoir for crocodiles and birds, and a morning with Rabari herders.
Highlights
What Jawai does best
Drives at dawn and dusk follow leopards across granite outcrops where they rest, hunt and raise cubs. Sightings often last long minutes, with the cat in the open on the rock, rather than a glimpse through trees.
The Rabari have grazed the Jawai hills for generations. A morning with a herding family, walking out with their animals and sharing tea, shows how people and leopards share this land.
The lake behind the Jawai Bandh holds mugger crocodiles and, in winter, flocks of migratory birds. An evening by the water, as herders bring animals down to drink, is one of the most peaceful scenes in Rajasthan.
Small shrines sit on top of the granite hills, reached by steps. Leopards are sometimes seen near them, and priests and villagers climb daily. Visiting with a local guide shows how faith and wildlife meet here.
The camp sets up drinks on a flat rock above the plains as the light fades. You may hear langurs calling alarm and see a leopard emerge below. It is the most memorable hour of a Jawai stay.
Experiences
Four hours to plan around
Getting there
How to reach Jawai
Udaipur (UDR) and Jodhpur (JDH) airports are each about three hours by road. Most guests fly into one and out of the other, with Jawai in between. Ahmedabad is about five hours away for travellers coming from Gujarat.
Jawai Bandh railway station lies on the Delhi–Ahmedabad line, and Falna station is nearby. A few trains stop daily, and the camp can collect guests from the station. Check current timetables before you travel.
Jodhpur is about 150 km, 3 hours, via Pali. Udaipur is about 145 km, 3 hours. Kumbhalgarh and Ranakpur are about 2 hours away, so Jawai fits easily into the drive between Jodhpur and Udaipur.
Where to stay
Rooms we book
SUJÁN Jawai, a small luxury tented camp among the granite hills near Bera, is our first and usual choice: excellent naturalists, large tents with private decks, and drives included. It operates seasonally, so check current status before you travel. A handful of smaller camps and heritage homes in the villages offer simpler stays. For guests who want leopards and lake views on the same trip, Jawai pairs naturally with The Oberoi Udaivilas or the Taj Lake Palace in Udaipur.
A luxury tented camp among the granite hills of Jawai in southern Rajasthan, built for leopard safaris on open land shared with Rabari herders. Stays are …
Shape your own journey Tell us your dates and what you hope to feel. We draw the route around you. Begin Not sure where to start? We match the land to your month, your pace and the people travelling with you. Begin Talk to a planner A first route and an indicative price within one working day. No payment to start. BeginFrom our planners
Five things to know
- Stay three nights; leopard sightings need several drives
- Bring a long lens and a beanbag; the cats are often on rocks at 50–150 m
- Wear neutral colours and warm layers for dawn drives from November to February
- Respect village temples and herders; ask before photographing people
- Combine Jawai with Kumbhalgarh and Ranakpur on the way to Udaipur
Questions travellers ask
Questions about Jawai
Where is Jawai in Rajasthan
In Pali district in southern Rajasthan, between Jodhpur and Udaipur, about 3 hours from each. The area centres on the Jawai Bandh reservoir and the villages around Bera. It fits naturally into a Jodhpur–Udaipur route, with Kumbhalgarh and Ranakpur nearby.
Is Jawai a national park
No. Jawai is open land of farms, villages and granite hills, not a protected park, although parts are recognised for conservation. Leopards move freely and drives are run by camps on agreed routes. There are no zones or permits like those in Ranthambore.
What is the best time to visit Jawai
October to March, when days are pleasant and dawn drives cool. Winter brings migratory birds to the reservoir, best from November to February, when you should pack warm layers for dawn drives in open vehicles. March and April are warmer but good for leopards. The monsoon greens the land, but the camp operates seasonally; check camp opening dates and current status before you travel.
How many nights do you need in Jawai
Three nights gives four to six drives and time for a Rabari morning and an evening at the reservoir. Two nights works if the journey is tight. Photographers often stay four nights for more chances at the best light. We usually place Jawai between Jodhpur and Udaipur, each about 3 hours away, so the journey itself stays easy. Bring a long lens and a beanbag for the drives.
Is SUJÁN Jawai worth the price
For leopard sightings in a small, quiet camp with excellent naturalists, yes. Rates are high and include meals and drives, so compare like for like. It is one of the best wildlife lodges in India and the main reason most travellers go to Jawai.
Can children go on safari at Jawai
Children are generally welcome, but camps set age policies for drives and stays, which change. Tell us ages when planning and check current status before you travel. Families with older children often find Jawai more relaxed than busy national parks.
How do you get to Jawai from Udaipur
By private car, about 145 km, 3 hours, through the Aravalli hills. We often stop at Ranakpur or Kumbhalgarh on the way to break the drive. From Jodhpur, the drive is about 150 km, also 3 hours, via Pali. Kumbhalgarh and Ranakpur are each about 2 hours from Jawai. If you prefer the train, Jawai Bandh station is on the Delhi–Ahmedabad line and the camp can collect you; check current status before you travel.
Can I see tigers in Jawai
No. Jawai has leopards, hyenas, jackals, crocodiles and many birds, but no tigers. For tigers, Ranthambore is about 450 km away. Many longer journeys include both, with a flight between Jaipur and Udaipur. We usually plan Ranthambore first for tigers, then fly to Udaipur and drive 3 hours to Jawai. Here leopards are the main predator, so sightings are often long and in the open.
Is Jawai good for a honeymoon
Yes. Its small camp, quiet setting and sundowners on the rocks make it a good contrast to the palaces of Udaipur. We often pair two or three nights at SUJÁN Jawai with three nights at the Taj Lake Palace or Udaivilas.
Journeys
Routes that stop in Jawai
Nearby
Pair it with
Lakes, palaces and the slowest days in Rajasthan
The blue city below Mehrangarh Fort
A mountain fort, its great wall and the Ranakpur temple
Shape your own journey Tell us your dates and what you hope to feel. We draw the route around you. Begin Not sure where to start? We match the land to your month, your pace and the people travelling with you. Begin Talk to a planner A first route and an indicative price within one working day. No payment to start. Begin