Lamayuru

One of Ladakh's oldest monasteries above the eroded moonland

Lamayuru, 125 km west of Leh on the Srinagar road, is a monastery village above a strange landscape of eroded lake clay known as the moonland. It is one of the oldest religious sites in Ladakh. Visit on a long day from Leh, as a stop on the Srinagar road, or overnight on the way to Zanskar.

Photo: Vyacheslav Argenberg · CC BY 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Lamayuru sits at 3,510 m on the old trade road between Leh and Kashmir, just below the Fotu La. Its monastery, of the Drikung Kagyu order, climbs a rocky spur above a village of mud-brick houses. Legend says the valley was once a lake, drained by the Indian master Naropa, who meditated in a cave that is now inside the monastery. The pale, crumbling cliffs around the village are the sediments of that ancient lake.

These eroded formations, known locally as the moonland, are the reason many visitors stop. In the late afternoon light they turn gold and ochre, and the monastery's white walls glow above them. The village itself is small and quiet, with a few guesthouses, cafes and fields along the stream. The village is quiet, and its people are mostly farmers and herders. Few visitors stay overnight, so evenings are very quiet.

Lamayuru is about three hours from Leh, making it a long day trip or a natural stop for travellers driving between Leh and Srinagar or heading to Zanskar via Kargil. Nearby are the old temple of Wanla, the rock-cut Maitreya at Mulbekh, and the Fotu La pass at 4,108 m, the highest point on the Srinagar–Leh road. The village is a good place to slow down for a night. Sunsets here are fine.

Highlights

What Lamayuru does best

Lamayuru monasteryOne of the oldest religious sites in Ladakh, now belonging to the Drikung Kagyu order. Its assembly hall holds fine statues and murals, and a small cave chapel is linked to Naropa. Visit early, when morning prayers are held and the light is clear.
The moonlandThe eroded lake sediments below the monastery form ridges, pinnacles and gullies in shades of cream, ochre and grey. They are at their best in the late afternoon. A short walk among them shows how the ancient lake left its marks.
Yuru Kabgyat festivalEach summer, usually in June or July, Lamayuru holds two days of masked cham dances in its courtyard. The festival draws villagers from across the area, and it is less crowded than Hemis. Dates follow the Tibetan calendar.
Wanla templeA short drive south of Lamayuru, the village of Wanla has an old temple of the Alchi period with a three-storey statue of Avalokiteshvara and fine murals. It is rarely visited and well worth the detour.
Mulbekh ChambaAbout 60 km west, across the Fotu La and Namika La, a nine-metre figure of Maitreya is carved into a rock by the road at Mulbekh. It is thought to date from around the 7th or 8th century and is one of the oldest Buddhist monuments in the region.
Fotu La passAt 4,108 m, the Fotu La is the highest pass on the Srinagar–Leh road, just west of Lamayuru. It is a gentle crossing with wide views and prayer flags, much easier than the 5,000 m passes to the north and east.

Experiences

Four hours to plan around

spiritual · 2 hours Morning prayers at Lamayuru Lamayuru, Ladakh

nature · 1.5 hours Walk through the Lamayuru moonland Lamayuru, Ladakh

culture · 2 hours The old temple at Wanla Lamayuru, Ladakh

culture · Half day Mulbekh's rock-carved Maitreya Lamayuru, Ladakh

Getting there

How to reach Lamayuru

Air

The nearest airport is Leh (IXL), about 125 km east. Srinagar airport is about 300 km west via Kargil and Zoji La.

Rail

There is no railway in Ladakh. The nearest useful stations are Jammu Tawi and Srinagar's rail link via Jammu; both are long drives away.

Road

From Leh, follow the Srinagar highway west via Nimmu, Saspol, Khaltse and the Hangroo loops: ≈ 125 km and 3 h. From Kargil it is ≈ 105 km and 2.5 h over Namika La and Fotu La. The road is usually open from April or May to November. Check current status before you travel.

Where to stay

Rooms we book

Lamayuru has a handful of guesthouses and seasonal camps, all simple, with no luxury hotel. For most guests we suggest visiting as a long day trip from Nimmu House, about 90 km east, or as a stop on the Srinagar to Leh road. On Zanskar journeys, where a night here breaks the long drive to Padum, we book the best guesthouse or camp available, with private bathrooms and our own extra bedding.

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From our planners

Five things to know

Arrive by 8 am if you want to see morning prayers; leave Nimmu House by 6.30 am.
Walk among the moonland formations in the late afternoon for the warm light.
Carry a picnic or plan lunch at Khaltse, as food options are limited.
The Hangroo loops below Lamayuru are steep and narrow; motion-sickness medicine helps.
Check the Yuru Kabgyat dates if you are travelling in June or July.

Questions travellers ask

Questions about Lamayuru

How far is Lamayuru from Leh?

Lamayuru is about 125 km west of Leh, around three hours by road along the Srinagar highway. A day trip is possible, leaving early and returning by evening. Many travellers prefer to visit from Nimmu House or Alchi, which are closer, or as a stop on the Srinagar road.

What is the moonland at Lamayuru?

The moonland is a landscape of eroded lake sediments below Lamayuru monastery, carved into ridges and pinnacles by wind and water. Its pale, cratered look gives it the name. It is at its best in the late afternoon light, and a short walk among the formations is easy.

When is the Lamayuru festival?

The Yuru Kabgyat festival is held each year on the 17th and 18th days of the fifth Tibetan month, usually in June or July, with masked cham dances in the monastery courtyard. Dates change each year, so check current status before you travel.

Is it worth staying overnight at Lamayuru?

For most guests, a long day trip is enough. An overnight makes sense on the way to Zanskar via Kargil, or if you want sunset over the moonland and dawn prayers. Accommodation is simple guesthouses and camps, with no luxury hotels.

What is the altitude of Lamayuru?

Lamayuru is at about 3,510 m, close to the height of Leh. The Fotu La, just to the west, is at 4,108 m. Most guests who have acclimatised in Leh feel fine here. The drive includes the steep Hangroo loops below the village.

Do we need a permit for Lamayuru?

No. Lamayuru and the Srinagar–Leh road are not protected areas, so no permit is needed. Some areas off the highway, such as the Dah-Hanu villages, have needed permits. Check current status before you travel. Monastery entry fees are payable at the gate, and your guide handles them.

Can we combine Lamayuru with Alchi?

Yes, they are about 60 km apart on the same road, and many guests combine them, with Likir and Basgo too, in a long day from Leh or from Nimmu House. Alchi is best in late morning and Lamayuru in late afternoon, or the reverse with an early start.

What is the road like to Lamayuru?

The Srinagar–Leh highway is paved and generally good, but the stretch below Lamayuru, known as the Hangroo loops, has steep hairpins. Take motion-sickness medicine if you are prone to it. In winter the road can close for hours after snow.

Is Lamayuru good for photography?

Very. The monastery above the moonland, especially in late afternoon light, is one of Ladakh's best-known views. Morning prayers, the masked dances of the summer festival and the old village lanes all reward patient photographers. Late afternoon and early morning give the best light on the monastery and moonland.