Mulbekh's rock-carved Maitreya

From Lamayuru, the road climbs to the Fotu La at 4,108 m, the highest point on the Srinagar–Leh road, then drops and climbs again over Namika La. Beyond lies Mulbekh, the first Buddhist village on the road east from Kargil, about 60 km from Lamayuru. The road is paved and the views wide, with the Zanskar range to the south. Fotu La is usually a gentle crossing with prayer flags.

Beside the road stands the Mulbekh Chamba, a figure of Maitreya, the future Buddha, carved in relief into a large rock, about nine metres high. It is thought to date from around the 7th or 8th century, which makes it one of the oldest surviving Buddhist monuments in Ladakh. A small temple has been built at its foot. It is still an object of worship. Allow about 30 minutes at the carving.

Above the village, two small gompas sit on a rocky ridge, reached by a steep road. From here the views over the Wakha valley are wide. We return to Lamayuru for lunch, or continue to Kargil on the way to Zanskar or Srinagar. Allow about half a day from Lamayuru, including stops. The gompas are small and quiet. Carry water and snacks, as places to eat on the road are few and far between.