Eleven nights to Ladakh's remotest valley. After three nights in Leh, drive west via Lamayuru and Kargil up the Suru valley to Rangdum, cross Pensi La beside the Drang Drung glacier, and spend three nights in Padum for Karsha, Stongde and Phugtal. An expedition with simple stays.
Zanskar is the Ladakh of old: a high, isolated valley behind the Zanskar range, where monasteries still stand at the centre of village life and snow closes the passes for half the year. Reaching it is part of the experience. The road runs west from Leh to Kargil, then up the Suru valley beneath the 7,000 m peaks of Nun and Kun to Rangdum, and over Pensi La into Zanskar.
This is an expedition, not a hotel tour. Outside Leh, stays are guesthouses and camps, chosen for cleanliness and setting, and the roads beyond Kargil are rough. In exchange, you see one of the least visited corners of the Himalaya: Karsha's whitewashed tiers above the Stod river, Stongde on its ridge, and Phugtal, a monastery built into a cliff-side cave above the Tsarap river. It is a true expedition. Come prepared.
Highlights
Why this route works
Lamayuru above the moonland, on the old Srinagar road
The Suru valley and the peaks of Nun and Kun
Rangdum monastery alone on its hill
Pensi La and the Drang Drung glacier
Karsha, Stongde and the cave monastery of Phugtal
Day by day
The journey
Day01
Arrive in Leh and rest
Overnight: Leh≈ 4 km · 15 minMeals: Lunch, Dinner
Your guide meets you at Leh airport and drives you to The Grand Dragon Ladakh. Spend the day resting: lunch, sleep, water, an early dinner. Your guide will explain the route to Zanskar, the stays along the way and what to pack in a smaller bag for the remote nights. A good rest now pays off later in the journey. If you arrive on an early flight, your room may not be ready at once; the hotel will serve tea and breakfast while it is prepared, and you can rest in the lounge.
Day02
Old town and Shey
Overnight: Leh≈ 30 km · 1 h in totalMeals: Breakfast, Dinner
A gentle walk through Leh's old town to the palace, with stops at restored houses and a bakery. After lunch and a rest, a short drive to Shey and its seated Buddha above the Indus. Keep the evening quiet. Your guide checks road reports for Pensi La and the Suru valley. The old town walk takes about two and a half hours. Lunch is in the bazaar, and the afternoon begins with a rest.
Day03
Thiksey at dawn and Hemis
Overnight: Leh≈ 100 km · 2.5 h in totalMeals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Leave early for morning prayers at Thiksey, then continue to Hemis monastery and its museum. Lunch at Hemis, with a stop at Stakna on the return. Back in Leh by mid-afternoon to rest and pack. Leave larger luggage at the hotel and take a smaller bag for Zanskar, with warm layers for cold nights at Rangdum. Hemis's museum of thangkas and masks deserves an hour. Dinner is early. Rest in the afternoon.
Day04
Basgo and Alchi to Lamayuru
Overnight: Lamayuru≈ 140 km · 4 hMeals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Drive west along the Indus past the Zanskar confluence at Nimmu to Basgo, with its ruined fort-temples. Continue to Alchi for its 12th–13th century murals and lunch in a village garden. In the afternoon, climb the Hangroo loops to Lamayuru and walk among the moonland formations in the late light. Overnight in the best guesthouse or camp in the village. Lamayuru stays are simple. We bring extra bedding for the night.
Day05
Mulbekh, Kargil and the Suru valley
Overnight: Rangdum≈ 235 km · 8 hMeals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Morning prayers at Lamayuru, then cross Fotu La and Namika La to Mulbekh and its rock-carved Maitreya. Continue to Kargil for lunch, then turn south into the Suru valley, past Sankoo and Parkachik, with views of Nun and Kun, both above 7,000 m. Arrive at Rangdum in the late afternoon and settle into a seasonal camp. A long day, broken by good stops. Carry a picnic and warm layers. Dress warmly.
Day06
Pensi La to Padum
Overnight: Padum≈ 100 km · 4.5 hMeals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Visit Rangdum monastery on its hill in the morning light, then climb to Pensi La, at 4,400 m, with its small lakes and the first view into Zanskar. The Drang Drung glacier curves down from the peaks beside the road. Descend into the Stod valley past small villages to Padum, arriving by mid-afternoon. Rest at your hotel. The drive takes about four and a half hours. Dinner is at the hotel.
Day07
Karsha and Stongde
Overnight: Padum≈ 70 km · 2.5 h in totalMeals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Early morning at Karsha, the largest monastery in Zanskar, for prayers and the view over the Stod valley. Walk down through the village. After lunch in Padum, drive to Stongde, a monastery on a high ridge with old chapels and wide views. Return to Padum for dinner. Your guide confirms access arrangements for Phugtal tomorrow. Karsha's climb is steep, so take it slowly. Stongde's road is rough. Dinner is at the hotel.
Day08
The cave monastery of Phugtal
Overnight: Padum≈ 150 km · 6 h in totalMeals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
A very early start for the long drive up the Lungnak valley towards Phugtal. From the road head, walk along the valley side and cross the Tsarap to reach the monastery, built into a vast cave in the cliff. The length of the walk depends on how far the road reaches in your year. Picnic lunch, then the walk and drive back to Padum. Check current status before you travel.
Day09
Back over Pensi La to Rangdum
Overnight: Rangdum≈ 100 km · 4.5 hMeals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
A relaxed morning in Padum, with a walk through the town and a visit to a village nearby. After lunch, drive back over Pensi La, with a second chance to see the Drang Drung glacier in afternoon light, to Rangdum. A quiet evening in the camp, with the wide valley and glaciers around you. Rangdum's nights are cold, even in August. Carry warm layers. Dinner is at the camp. Pack warm layers.
Day10
Suru valley to Lamayuru
Overnight: Lamayuru≈ 235 km · 7.5 hMeals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Leave Rangdum after breakfast and drive down the Suru valley to Kargil for lunch. Continue east over Namika La and Fotu La to Lamayuru, arriving in time for a slow walk through the village and the moonland at sunset. Overnight in the guesthouse or camp. This stop breaks the long return journey. The drive takes about seven and a half hours, with lunch in Kargil. Carry snacks and water. Rest before dinner.
Day11
Wanla and back to Leh
Overnight: Leh≈ 155 km · 4 hMeals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
A short detour to Wanla to see its old temple and the three-storey Avalokiteshvara, opened by the village caretaker. Then drive back along the Indus to Leh, stopping at Likir if time allows. Hot showers, a full-service hotel and a farewell dinner at The Grand Dragon Ladakh. The drive takes about four hours, and the hotel's hot showers are very welcome after the remote nights. Dinner is at the hotel.
Day12
Fly home from Leh
≈ 4 km · 15 minMeals: Breakfast
Breakfast and transfer to Leh airport for your morning flight to Delhi. If the flight is later, a final walk in the bazaar or a visit to Spituk monastery above the runway. Your guide sees you through check-in and says goodbye. Morning departures are the norm at Leh because afternoon winds make flying difficult, so we plan an early start and carry a packed breakfast if needed. Keep warm layers and any medicines in your hand luggage.
This journey involves long drives on rough roads and simple stays outside Leh.
Pensi La is usually open from June to October; we plan Zanskar for July to September.
Road access to Phugtal changes every year; the walk may be one to three hours each way.
New roads to Zanskar from Lahaul and along the Zanskar gorge may change the route. Check current status before you travel.
Carry cash for the whole Zanskar stay; ATMs in Padum are unreliable.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
Is Zanskar suitable for first-time visitors to Ladakh?
It suits adventurous first-timers who are comfortable with long, rough drives and basic stays. Many of our Zanskar guests have visited Leh, Nubra and Pangong before. If comfort matters most, start with our Nubra and Pangong journey. Zanskar rewards patience.
Why not drive straight from Kargil to Padum?
It is possible in eight to nine hours, but tiring. A night at Rangdum breaks the journey, lets you see the Suru valley and Pensi La in good light, and gives your body a night at around 4,000 m before Padum.
How fit do we need to be?
Reasonable fitness is enough. Daily walking is short, except for the optional walk to Phugtal, which can be one to three hours each way. The main demand is sitting comfortably through long drives on rough roads. Back problems are worth discussing first.
Do we need permits for Zanskar?
The main Zanskar valley around Padum has not generally required Protected Area or Inner Line Permits. Rules can change, especially on new roads. Check current status before you travel; we confirm before your trip. Nubra permits are not needed for this route.
What are the stays like in Zanskar?
Simple hotels and guesthouses in Padum, seasonal camps at Rangdum and guesthouses or camps at Lamayuru. We choose clean, well-run places with private bathrooms where possible and bring extra bedding. Comfort is basic. Hot water may be available only at set times.
What if Pensi La closes?
Snow or landslides can close Pensi La for a day or two, especially in June and September. We keep the plan flexible and can shift nights between Rangdum and Padum. In rare cases, the journey ends in the Suru valley.
When is the best time for this journey?
July to September, when Pensi La is reliably open and the weather settled. September brings the harvest and golden fields. June is possible, with snow still on the pass. Outside these months, snow on Pensi La makes the journey uncertain, and camps at Rangdum close.
What does the journey cost?
From ₹3,60,000 per person, twin sharing, including the stays named, private SUV, guide, most meals and entry fees. Flights are extra. Single rooms add to the cost. A high-clearance vehicle and satellite phone are included. Single travellers, festival dates and peak weeks in July and August cost more, and we confirm the exact price once your dates and rooms are fixed.
Can we add a trek in Zanskar?
Yes. Short treks from Padum or longer routes such as Lamayuru to Padum can be arranged with ponies, camps and a cook. They require extra days and good fitness. Ask us for a combined plan. We plan treks in July and August.
Into Zanskar over Pensi La11 nights · from ₹3,60,000 per personCheck dates and price
