Sham Valley
Gentle village walks, Likir and Basgo, west of Leh
Sham, sometimes called lower Ladakh, covers the villages and side valleys of the Indus between Nimmu and Khaltse, about 35–90 km west of Leh. Its villages are lower and greener than the high plateaus, with barley fields, apricot orchards and willows along irrigation channels. The landscape is open and rolling, with low passes linking one valley to the next. Villages here are welcoming and quiet. Many families still farm the old way.
For many travellers, Sham is the gentlest introduction to Ladakh. The village walk from Likir to Yangthang and Hemis Shukpachan crosses passes of around 3,600–3,750 m, with short daily stages and homestay or picnic stops, and is often called the baby trek. Along the way are monasteries like Likir, with its large golden Maitreya, and the fort-temples of Basgo. No camping is needed; the car follows. Walks can be shortened at any point.
In winter, the high villages of Sham, especially Ulley, become a base for snow leopard tracking, as the cats follow wild sheep down to lower slopes. Year-round, the valley is within easy reach of Leh, and Nimmu House, at its eastern edge, makes the most comfortable base for exploring Sham, Alchi and Lamayuru. It also suits families with young children. Summer walks and winter wildlife make it worth visiting at both ends of the year.
Highlights
What Sham Valley does best
Likir, a Gelugpa monastery on a hill above its village, is known for a large golden statue of Maitreya, about 23 m tall, seated in the open. Its halls hold old thangkas and a small museum. Visit in the morning for prayers.
On a crumbling ridge above Basgo village, the ruins of a 15th–17th century royal fort enclose temples with large Maitreya statues and fine murals. Basgo was once a capital of lower Ladakh. The mud-brick ruins are striking in late light.
A gentle walk links Likir, Yangthang, Hemis Shukpachan, Ang and Tingmosgang over low passes. Daily stages of three to five hours allow time for tea in village homes and picnics in orchards. It is the easiest classic walk in Ladakh.
This village takes its name from a grove of old juniper trees, called shukpa, sacred to the villagers. It sits in a wide bowl of fields and is a favourite stop on the Sham walk, with good homestays.
Once a royal seat, Tingmosgang has a ruined palace and temples on a hill above the village, with views over orchards and fields. In 1684 a treaty signed here settled the border between Ladakh and Tibet.
In winter, the hamlet of Ulley, high in a side valley, is one of the best places to look for snow leopards outside Hemis National Park. Spotters scan the slopes for cats following bharal and urial.
Experiences
Four hours to plan around
Getting there
How to reach Sham Valley
The nearest airport is Leh (IXL), about 35 km from Nimmu and 55 km from Likir.
There is no railway in Ladakh. The nearest useful stations are Jammu Tawi and Chandigarh, both over 650 km away by road.
Follow the Srinagar highway west from Leh past Phyang and Nimmu to the turn for Likir: ≈ 55 km and 1.25 h. Basgo is on the highway, ≈ 40 km from Leh. Hemis Shukpachan and Tingmosgang are reached by side roads. Ulley is ≈ 2.5 h from Leh. Winter roads to the high villages depend on snow.
Where to stay
Rooms we book
Our favourite base is Nimmu House, a restored village house with tented rooms in an orchard at Nimmu, at the eastern edge of the Sham valley. It is ideal for walks, monastery visits and day trips to Alchi and Lamayuru, and it opens for the summer season. On the Sham walk, guests may stay a night in a village homestay, which is simple but warm and welcoming. In winter, Ulley has specialist lodges and homestays for snow leopard trips.
Nimmu House is a restored early 20th-century village house at Nimmu, 35 km west of Leh, with rooms in the house and tents in its orchard. …
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Five things to know
- Start the Sham walk on your third or fourth day in Ladakh, when you are acclimatised.
- Carry a light pack with water, sun protection and a warm layer; vehicles carry the rest.
- Stop for tea in village homes when invited; it is part of the walk.
- Visit Basgo in the late afternoon, when the ruins glow in the low sun.
- In winter, book Ulley well ahead; the best spotters are in demand.
Questions travellers ask
Questions about Sham Valley
Where is the Sham valley?
The Sham valley is the lower Indus region west of Leh, roughly between Nimmu and Khaltse, about 35–90 km from Leh. It includes the villages of Likir, Yangthang, Hemis Shukpachan, Ang, Tingmosgang and Basgo, along with the monastery of Alchi nearby.
What is the Sham valley trek?
The Sham valley trek, often called the baby trek, is a gentle walk linking Likir, Yangthang, Hemis Shukpachan, Ang and Tingmosgang over low passes of around 3,600–3,750 m. Stages of three to five hours make it suitable for most fit walkers, including families.
How many days does the Sham trek take?
The classic walk takes three to four days, with one stage each day. Many guests walk two stages, Likir to Yangthang and Yangthang to Hemis Shukpachan, and return to Nimmu House each night by car. We tailor it to your pace and comfort.
When is the best time to visit the Sham valley?
May to October is best for walking, with green fields in summer and golden poplars in October. Apricot blossom comes in April and May. In winter, the high villages of Sham, like Ulley, are a base for snow leopard tracking.
Where should we stay in the Sham valley?
We recommend Nimmu House, a restored village house with tented rooms in an orchard at Nimmu, the most comfortable base for the area. Homestays in Yangthang and Hemis Shukpachan offer a simpler, more personal experience for a night on the walk.
Is the Sham valley suitable for children?
Yes, it is one of the best areas in Ladakh for families. The walks are gentle, the villages welcoming and the altitude moderate. Children enjoy the orchards, the streams and the homestay visits. Rafting from Phey to Nimmu is nearby.
Do we need a permit for the Sham valley?
No permit is needed for the Sham valley, Likir, Basgo or Alchi. They lie outside the protected areas near the borders. Some areas further west, such as the Dah-Hanu villages, have needed permits. Check current status before you travel. Monastery fees are included.
Can we see snow leopards in the Sham valley?
Yes, in winter. From January to March, the slopes around Ulley are one of the best places in Ladakh to see snow leopards, with experienced local spotters. Sightings are never guaranteed, and conditions are very cold. Plan at least two nights at Ulley.
Is the Sham valley lower than Leh?
The villages along the Indus, like Nimmu and Basgo, are a little lower than Leh at around 3,100–3,300 m, while Likir and Hemis Shukpachan are around 3,600–3,700 m. The passes on the walk reach about 3,750 m. Most guests find it a comfortable place to walk.
Journeys
Routes that stop in Sham Valley
Nearby
Pair it with
Ladakh's oldest temple murals, in a village of apricot trees
Ladakh's capital at 3,500 m, and where every journey begins
One of Ladakh's oldest monasteries above the eroded moonland
Ladakh's richest monastery and the snow leopard's valleys
Shape your own journey Tell us your dates and what you hope to feel. We draw the route around you. Begin Not sure where to start? We match the land to your month, your pace and the people travelling with you. Begin Talk to a planner A first route and an indicative price within one working day. No payment to start. Begin