The old city lanes and Kashi Vishwanath
The lanes, or galis, of old Varanasi are a maze too narrow for cars, shared by pilgrims, shopkeepers, cows and motorbikes. Your guide leads you in from the river after the dawn boat ride, when the city is waking. Every few metres there is a shrine set into a wall, a doorway into a courtyard house or a shop selling brass, flowers or sweets.
At the centre is the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, dedicated to Shiva and one of the twelve jyotirlinga shrines. The present temple was built in 1780 by Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore, and its spire was later covered in gold. A large corridor completed in 2021 now links it to the river. Phones, bags and pens must be left outside; your guide arranges lockers and explains the queue options.
We stop for breakfast at an old sweet shop, kachori with potato curry and hot jalebi, and for lassi served in clay cups. If you wish, the walk ends at a wrestling akhara, where men train on soft earth, or at a paan shop for a sweet, betel-leaf digestive. Check current status before you travel for temple entry rules.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
Can foreigners enter the Kashi Vishwanath Temple?
Visitors of all faiths are generally allowed in the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, though queues can be long and security is strict. Phones, cameras, bags and leather items are not permitted. Paid quick-entry options exist and rules change, so your guide confirms on the day. Check current status before you travel.
Is it safe to walk in the old lanes of Varanasi?
Yes, with a guide or a good sense of direction. The lanes are crowded and confusing, and motorbikes squeeze through, but they are lively rather than threatening. Keep bags closed, watch your step for cow dung and uneven stones, and wear closed shoes. Early morning is calmer than midday.
What should I eat in Varanasi?
Try kachori with potato curry and jalebi for breakfast, lassi in a clay cup, tamatar chaat, malaiyo in winter, a light, saffron milk froth, and Banarasi paan after dinner. Varanasi's old city is largely vegetarian. Our guides take you to long-established shops with high turnover and clean kitchens.
Also in Varanasi
More hours to plan around
