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Tales of Luxury

The silk weavers of Banaras at their looms

Visit handloom workshops where Banarasi brocade saris are woven with silk and gold or silver thread. Watch the punched-card jacquard looms at work and learn how to tell handloom from powerloom.
The silk weavers of Banaras at their looms
Photo: Unstable.atom · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Banarasi silk, woven with real or imitation gold and silver zari thread, has been made in Varanasi since at least the Mughal period. It carries a Geographical Indication tag. Most weavers are Muslim families living in quarters such as Madanpura, Lallapura and Peeli Kothi, and in villages around Sarnath, with looms set up in front rooms and courtyards.

We visit a family workshop where the clatter of the loom fills the room. Many looms still use a jacquard mechanism, a chain of punched cards that lifts threads to create the pattern. Complex brocades such as kadhua, where each motif is woven separately by hand, can take weeks or months for one sari. The weaver explains the yarn, the design and the hours behind each piece.

Powerloom imitations are common in Varanasi's shops. Your guide shows you how to spot handloom work: small irregularities, floats on the reverse and a fringe at the end. We finish at a trusted showroom with a wide range of saris, stoles and fabrics. Many Muslim workshops close on Fridays.

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

How can I tell a real handloom Banarasi sari?

Look at the reverse: handloom saris show floats, loose threads between motifs, and small irregularities, while powerloom saris are uniform. A handloom sari often has a small unwoven fringe at the end. Look for the Banarasi GI tag and the handloom mark. Real silver or gold zari tarnishes slightly over time. Our guides check pieces with you.

How much does a Banarasi silk sari cost?

Handloom Banarasi silk saris range from around ₹10,000 for simpler designs to several lakh rupees for complex kadhua brocades with real silver zari. Powerloom versions are far cheaper. Price depends on silk quality, zari type, design complexity and weaving time. Our guide explains what you are paying for before you buy.

Can I visit silk weavers in Varanasi on any day?

Most workshops are open from Saturday to Thursday. Many Muslim weaving families do not work on Fridays, which is the weekly holiday in these quarters. Mornings are best, when looms are running and light is good. We arrange visits ahead so families expect guests.

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