Kovalam
Crescent beaches, Ayurveda retreats and the old capital
Kovalam was a fishing village until the Travancore royal family built a seaside retreat on the headland in the early 20th century. In the 1970s it became one of India's first beach destinations for international travellers. Today, Lighthouse Beach and Hawa Beach are busy with small hotels, shops and restaurants, while the best luxury stays sit apart on the headlands and in the quieter coves to the north and south.
The coast south of Kovalam, through Chowara and Pulinkudi to Poovar, is where some of Kerala's most respected Ayurveda retreats are found, set on clifftops among coconut palms. They offer programmes of 7 to 28 days with daily consultations, treatment by trained therapists and food prepared to the doctor's instructions. For guests coming to Kerala mainly for Ayurveda, this is where we place them.
Thiruvananthapuram, about 30 minutes away, was the capital of the princely state of Travancore and is full of interest that most visitors miss: the Padmanabhaswamy temple and the East Fort around it, the Kuthiramalika palace, the Napier Museum and the Sree Chitra Art Gallery with its paintings by Raja Ravi Varma, and CVN Kalari, one of the best-known schools of Kalaripayattu. The airport is just 15 km from Kovalam.
Highlights
What Kovalam does best
The coast south of Kovalam has several of Kerala's best-known Ayurveda retreats, including Somatheeram at Chowara and Niraamaya Retreats Surya Samudra at Pulinkudi, with resident doctors and programmes of one to four weeks.
The great Vishnu temple of Thiruvananthapuram, with its seven-tiered gopuram over the temple tank, is the spiritual heart of the old Travancore state. Only Hindus may enter, with a strict dress code, but the East Fort area around it is worth walking.
The 19th-century Kuthiramalika palace, named for the 122 carved wooden horses under its eaves, sits beside the temple. The Napier Museum and Sree Chitra Art Gallery, with works by Raja Ravi Varma, are 3 km away.
About 18 km south, the Neyyar river meets the sea at Poovar. A boat ride through mangrove channels ends at a golden sand bar between the river and the ocean, best in the early morning.
In Thiruvananthapuram's East Fort, CVN Kalari has trained students in Kerala's martial art for decades. Watching a morning training session in the sunken earthen pit is far more interesting than a staged show.
The red-and-white striped lighthouse on the Vizhinjam headland looks over Kovalam's busiest beach. Climb it in the late afternoon for views along the coast, then walk the promenade.
Experiences
Four hours to plan around
Getting there
How to reach Kovalam
Thiruvananthapuram International Airport (TRV) is just 15 km away, about 30 minutes by car, with direct flights from the Gulf, Colombo, Singapore and major Indian cities.
Thiruvananthapuram Central station is 16 km away, about 30–40 minutes by car, with trains along the whole Kerala coast and to Chennai, Bengaluru, Mumbai and Delhi.
Varkala is ≈ 60 km · 1.5–2 h, Alappuzha ≈ 160 km · 4 h and Kumarakom ≈ 170 km · 4.5 h. Traffic through Thiruvananthapuram can be slow, so we time drives to avoid rush hours.
Where to stay
Rooms we book
The Leela Kovalam, a Raviz hotel, stands on the clifftop above Hawa Beach with sea-facing rooms, an infinity pool and a private beach below. Taj Green Cove Resort & Spa sits on a quieter hillside to the north. For Ayurveda, we place guests at Niraamaya Retreats Surya Samudra at Pulinkudi, with stone-carved cottages and old Kerala houses on a headland, or at Somatheeram at Chowara, one of Kerala's longest-established Ayurveda resorts.
A large clifftop resort above Hawa Beach at Kovalam, with sea-facing rooms, an infinity pool looking over the Arabian Sea, a private beach below and an …
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Five things to know
- Swim only in the flagged areas with lifeguards; the sea is rough from May to September.
- For the Padmanabhaswamy temple, men must wear a dhoti without a shirt and women a sari or long skirt.
- Avoid the busy Lighthouse Beach strip at midday and go in the early morning or at sunset.
- For Ayurveda, book at least two weeks and tell the retreat about any medical conditions in advance.
- Many Thiruvananthapuram museums close on Mondays; plan the city on another day.
Questions travellers ask
Questions about Kovalam
Is Kovalam good for Ayurveda?
Yes, it is the best area in Kerala for serious Ayurveda. Several leading retreats, including Niraamaya Retreats Surya Samudra at Pulinkudi and Somatheeram at Chowara, are within 10 km, with resident doctors and full programmes. For panchakarma, plan 14 to 21 nights. Kerala's practitioners consider June to August the ideal season.
What is the best time to visit Kovalam?
November to March for the beach, with dry, sunny days of about 31 °C and calmer seas. December and January are busiest. June to August brings heavy monsoon rain and rough seas, but this is considered the best time for Ayurveda treatments, and rates are lower.
Is Kovalam beach safe for swimming?
In the lifeguarded areas of Lighthouse and Hawa beaches, in calm weather from November to March, yes. Follow the flags and lifeguard instructions; currents can be strong, and the sea is dangerous during the monsoon. Resort pools are the safer choice for children.
Where should I stay in Kovalam?
For a luxury beach stay, The Leela Kovalam on the clifftop above Hawa Beach. For a quieter hillside setting, Taj Green Cove. For Ayurveda programmes, Niraamaya Retreats Surya Samudra or Somatheeram, both south of Kovalam. Avoid the crowded Lighthouse Beach strip for a luxury stay.
How far is Kovalam from Thiruvananthapuram airport?
About 15 km, roughly 30 minutes by car. This makes Kovalam an easy first or last stop on a Kerala journey, especially if you fly in or out via the Gulf, Colombo or Singapore to Thiruvananthapuram. It is the shortest airport transfer in Kerala.
Is Kovalam too crowded?
Lighthouse Beach and the promenade get busy, especially at weekends and in December and January. The luxury hotels and retreats sit apart on headlands and in quieter coves, so the crowds are easy to avoid. Visit the main beach early in the morning or at sunset.
How many days do I need in Kovalam?
Three nights for a beach stay with a day in Thiruvananthapuram and a morning at Poovar. For Ayurveda, plan 14 to 21 nights; shorter rejuvenation programmes of 7 nights are possible. Kovalam also works as a two-night end to a journey before flying out of Thiruvananthapuram.
Can we combine Kovalam and Varkala?
Yes. Varkala is about 60 km north, 1.5 to 2 hours by car. Many guests stay at Kovalam and visit Varkala for a long afternoon with sunset on the cliff, or spend two nights in each. A coastal route from Alappuzha to Varkala and then Kovalam works well.
Is Thiruvananthapuram worth visiting?
Yes, for at least a full day. The capital of the former Travancore state has the Padmanabhaswamy temple, Kuthiramalika palace, the Napier Museum, the Sree Chitra Art Gallery with Raja Ravi Varma's paintings and CVN Kalari. It is 30 minutes from Kovalam and far less visited than Kochi.
Journeys
Routes that stop in Kovalam
Nearby
Pair it with
Red laterite cliffs above a pilgrim beach
Houseboats, Kuttanad paddy and the snake-boat races
Shape your own journey Tell us your dates and what you hope to feel. We draw the route around you. Begin Not sure where to start? We match the land to your month, your pace and the people travelling with you. Begin Talk to a planner A first route and an indicative price within one working day. No payment to start. Begin