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Padmanabhaswamy temple and East Fort

A morning in Thiruvananthapuram's old East Fort with a local historian: the Padmanabhaswamy temple and its tank, the carved Kuthiramalika palace museum, the streets of the old agraharam and the history of the Travancore kings who ruled as servants of the deity.
Padmanabhaswamy temple and East Fort
Photo: Shishirdasika · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The Padmanabhaswamy temple is the reason Thiruvananthapuram exists; the city's name means the town of the sacred serpent Anantha, on which Vishnu reclines. In 1750, the Travancore king Marthanda Varma dedicated his kingdom to the deity and ruled thereafter as its servant. The present temple, with its tall gopuram in the Tamil style, dates largely from the 18th century.

Entry is for Hindus only, with a strict dress code: men in a dhoti or mundu without a shirt, women in a sari, long skirt or dhoti over trousers. Hindu guests can join a darshan, viewing the reclining deity through three doors. Non-Hindu guests see the exterior, the temple tank and the surrounding streets with your guide, who explains the rituals and the history of the temple's vaults.

We continue to Kuthiramalika, the palace built in the 1840s by the musician king Swathi Thirunal, with carved wooden horses beneath its eaves and a museum of royal objects. The walk ends in the old Brahmin streets around the fort, with their stone houses and small shops selling brass lamps. Temple and palace timings change, so check current status before you travel.

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

Can foreigners enter Padmanabhaswamy temple?

Entry is restricted to Hindus. Foreign nationals who follow Hinduism are sometimes asked for a declaration. All visitors must follow a strict dress code. Non-Hindus can see the exterior, gopuram and temple tank. Rules are set by the temple administration, so check current status before you travel.

What is the dress code for Padmanabhaswamy temple?

Men must wear a mundu or dhoti and remove shirts before entering. Women must wear a sari, a long skirt and blouse, or a dhoti over other clothing. Dhotis can be hired near the entrance. Phones and cameras are not allowed inside and must be left in lockers.

Is Kuthiramalika palace worth visiting?

Yes. It is small but beautiful, with carved wooden ceilings, 122 horse-shaped wooden brackets under the eaves and a collection of royal objects. Guided tours last about 45 minutes. It is next to the temple, so the two combine easily. It is usually closed on Mondays.

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