Varkala

Red laterite cliffs above a pilgrim beach

Varkala is a small temple town on the coast 50 km north of Thiruvananthapuram, where red laterite cliffs rise straight above the sea, a geological rarity on India's west coast. Below lies Papanasam beach, sacred to Hindu pilgrims. Spend two or three nights between November and March for clifftop walks, yoga and sunsets.

Photo: Devender Goyal · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Varkala's cliffs are what set it apart. Along most of Kerala's coast the land meets the sea in flat sand and palms; here, a line of red and ochre laterite cliffs, 15 to 30 m high, runs for a few kilometres above the beach, with springs trickling from their faces. The Geological Survey of India has declared the cliff a national geological monument. A path runs along the top, lined with small hotels, cafes and yoga studios.

Varkala is also a pilgrim town. Papanasam beach, below the cliff, is where Hindu families come to perform rites for their ancestors, especially on the new moon of the month of Karkidakam in July or August, when the beach fills before dawn. Behind it stands the Janardanaswamy temple, dedicated to Vishnu, and a few kilometres inland is Sivagiri, where the social reformer Sree Narayana Guru founded his ashram and is buried.

The town has a relaxed, international atmosphere on the North Cliff, where many visitors stay for weeks to practise yoga or learn to surf, and a more traditional one around the temple. There is no large luxury hotel on the cliff itself, so we use the best small properties nearby or combine Varkala with a stay at Kovalam, 1.5 hours south. Two or three nights is enough for most guests.

Highlights

What Varkala does best

The clifftop path at sunsetA footpath runs for about 2 km along the top of the North Cliff, with steps down to the beaches below. The sun sets straight into the sea from November to February, and the cliff faces glow red in the last light.
Papanasam beach ritualsEarly in the morning, priests sit on the sand below the cliff helping families perform bali, offerings for the souls of ancestors. The name means washing away of sins. Watch from a distance and keep cameras away from the ceremonies.
Janardanaswamy templeAn old Vishnu temple on the hill above Papanasam, with a large bell said to have been given by a Dutch sea captain. Only Hindus may enter the inner temple, but the approach and the temple pond are worth seeing.
Sivagiri and Sree Narayana GuruThe hilltop ashram founded by Sree Narayana Guru, the late 19th and early 20th century reformer who campaigned against caste discrimination, is 3 km inland. His samadhi is a calm, white shrine visited by people of all backgrounds.
Anjengo FortAbout 12 km south, the British East India Company built one of its earliest Kerala trading posts at Anjengo in the 1690s. The small fort, cemetery and lighthouse stand beside a fishing village on a narrow strip between lagoon and sea.
Yoga mornings on the cliffVarkala has many yoga teachers and studios, and morning classes on rooftops overlooking the sea are a pleasant way to start the day. We arrange private sessions with teachers we know.

Experiences

Four hours to plan around

nature · 2 hours Varkala clifftop walk at sunset Varkala, Kerala

spiritual · 3 hours Papanasam beach and Sivagiri ashram Varkala, Kerala

culture · Half day Anjengo Fort and Kappil's lagoon Varkala, Kerala

wellness · 3 hours Private yoga and Ayurveda morning Varkala, Kerala

Getting there

How to reach Varkala

Air

Thiruvananthapuram International Airport (TRV) is about 45 km south, 1.25 h by car. Cochin International Airport (COK) is about 170 km, 4 h.

Rail

Varkala Sivagiri station is on the main coastal line, with frequent trains to Thiruvananthapuram (about 1 h) and Kochi (about 3–3.5 h). The station is 3 km from the cliff.

Road

Kovalam is ≈ 60 km · 1.5–2 h through Thiruvananthapuram, Alappuzha ≈ 120 km · 3 h on the coastal highway, and Kumarakom ≈ 150 km · 3.5–4 h. Roads along the coast are busy, so we avoid peak hours.

Where to stay

Rooms we book

Varkala has small hotels rather than large luxury resorts. The North Cliff has the best views, with a strip of boutique guesthouses and cafes; the quieter Odayam and Edava beaches to the north have a few calmer properties set back from the sea. For guests who want full luxury service, we often base the stay at The Leela Kovalam, about 1.5 hours south, and visit Varkala for a long day with sunset on the cliff.

From our planners

Five things to know

The cliff edge has no railings in many places; take care, especially after dark.
Swim only in the marked areas near lifeguards; currents are strong at the base of the cliff.
Cover shoulders and knees near the temple and on Papanasam beach, which is a sacred site.
Avoid photographing the ancestor rites on the beach.
Many clifftop cafes close in the monsoon months; plan Varkala from November to March.

Questions travellers ask

Questions about Varkala

Is Varkala better than Kovalam?

They suit different travellers. Varkala has dramatic cliffs, a relaxed, bohemian clifftop scene and a pilgrim beach, but few luxury hotels. Kovalam has larger luxury resorts, Ayurveda retreats and easy access to Thiruvananthapuram. Many guests stay at Kovalam and visit Varkala for a day with a sunset on the cliff.

What is the best time to visit Varkala?

November to March, when the sea is calmer, the skies are clear for sunsets and the clifftop cafes are open. December and January are busiest. From June to September the monsoon brings heavy rain, rough seas and many closures along the cliff.

Is it safe to swim in Varkala?

Only in the marked areas of Papanasam beach where lifeguards are on duty, and only in calm conditions. Currents at the base of the cliffs are strong, and drownings occur. Do not swim in the monsoon season or after drinking. Ask the lifeguards about the day's conditions.

How do I get from Varkala to Kovalam?

By car it is about 60 km, roughly 1.5 to 2 hours through Thiruvananthapuram depending on traffic. You can also take a train from Varkala Sivagiri to Thiruvananthapuram Central, about an hour, and drive the last 16 km to Kovalam.

Are there luxury hotels in Varkala?

Varkala has mostly small boutique hotels and guesthouses rather than large luxury resorts. Some offer good rooms with sea views on the North Cliff or quieter beaches to the north. For full luxury service, we usually base guests at Kovalam and visit Varkala for a day.

What is Papanasam beach?

The main beach below the Varkala cliff, sacred to Hindus. Families come to perform rites for their ancestors, guided by priests on the sand, particularly at the Karkidaka Vavu new moon in July or August. The name means destroyer of sins. Visitors should dress modestly and not photograph the rituals.

How many days do I need in Varkala?

Two or three nights for a relaxed stay with clifftop walks, a yoga session, the temple and Sivagiri, and a half-day to Anjengo. Many independent travellers stay much longer for yoga courses. As a day trip from Kovalam, a long afternoon with sunset is enough.

Is Varkala good for surfing?

Varkala has beginner-friendly waves from about October to March, and several surf schools give lessons on the beaches below the cliff. Conditions vary daily. Take lessons only with a certified instructor, and avoid surfing during the monsoon when the sea is dangerous.

Is Varkala suitable for families?

Yes, with care. Children enjoy the beach and the clifftop walk, but the cliff edges have no railings and the sea can be rough. Choose a hotel set back from the edge, keep children close on the path and swim only near the lifeguards in calm weather.