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Kovalamwater

Poovar estuary and the golden sand bar

An early-morning boat ride from Poovar, 18 km south of Kovalam, through the mangrove channels of the Neyyar river to the sand bar where the river, the backwaters and the Arabian Sea meet, with fishing villages and birdlife along the way.
Poovar estuary and the golden sand bar
Photo: Midhun Subhash · CC0, Wikimedia Commons

Poovar is a fishing village near the Tamil Nadu border, where the Neyyar river meets the sea. The river widens into backwaters here, lined with mangroves and coconut palms, before being stopped by a long, golden sand bar. On the other side lies the open ocean. It is one of the few places in Kerala where you see river, lagoon and sea in one view.

We board a private boat at a quiet jetty in the early morning, when the water is still and birds are active. The route winds through mangrove channels where kingfishers, egrets and Brahminy kites are common, past fishing hamlets and small churches. At the sand bar, you can step ashore and walk across to the sea side.

The sea at Poovar has strong currents and swimming is not allowed. We return by about 10 am. Floating cottages and resorts line parts of the estuary, and the main channels can be busy with boats later in the day, which is why we go early. The ride combines easily with a morning at a south Kovalam Ayurveda retreat.

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

How far is Poovar from Kovalam?

About 18 km south, roughly 40 minutes by car along the coast road. Boats leave from several jetties on the estuary. Combined with the boat ride, the trip takes about three hours, so it fits easily into a morning. Go early for calm water.

Can you swim at Poovar beach?

No. The sea at the Poovar sand bar has strong currents and swimming is not permitted. You can walk on the sand and paddle at the edge in calm conditions under supervision. For swimming, use the lifeguarded areas at Kovalam.

Is the Poovar boat ride good for birdwatching?

Yes, especially early in the morning. Kingfishers, herons, egrets, cormorants and Brahminy kites are common in the mangroves, and some winter migrants appear from November to February. Ask the boatman to cut the engine in the quieter channels. Bring binoculars and a hat.

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