Holi in Kathmandu
March, on the full moon of Phalgun (lunar calendar)
Holi marks the arrival of spring and the victory of good over evil, recalled through the story of Prahlad and Holika. In the Kathmandu Valley it starts about a week before the full moon of Phalgun, when a wooden pole hung with coloured cloth strips, the chir, is raised at Basantapur in Kathmandu Durbar Square. From that day children play with water and colours in the lanes, and the pole is taken down and burned at the end of the festival.
The main day is loud and joyful. Crowds gather at Basantapur, in Thamel and in neighbourhood squares to smear each other with abir, the coloured powder, spray water and dance to music. In the hills and the Kathmandu Valley Holi is celebrated on the full moon itself; in the Terai, closer to India, it is held the following day. Many Nepali families mark it at home with sweets and visits rather than in the public squares.
For travellers, Holi in Kathmandu is easy to join and easy to avoid. Those who want the full experience can spend a morning at Basantapur with a guide; those who prefer to stay clean can enjoy a quiet day at Dwarika's or in Dhulikhel and watch the mood from a distance. Colour play generally ends by early afternoon, and the city is calm again by evening.
How to do it well
- Wear old clothes and sunglasses, and oil your hair and skin before playing colours.
- Seal phones and cameras in plastic bags if you go into the squares.
- In the week before Holi, children throw water balloons from rooftops, so keep car windows closed.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
When is Holi celebrated in Kathmandu?
Holi in Kathmandu and the hills falls on the full moon of Phalgun, usually in March, one day before Holi in the Terai and much of India. The festival opens about a week earlier with the raising of the chir pole at Basantapur. Dates follow the lunar calendar and change each year, so check current status before you travel.
Where is the best place to celebrate Holi in Kathmandu?
Basantapur in Kathmandu Durbar Square is the centre of public celebrations, with music, crowds and clouds of colour. Thamel also fills with travellers and young Nepalis. For something gentler, Patan and Bhaktapur have smaller, more local gatherings. We send a guide with you, and you return to the hotel to clean up by early afternoon.
Is Holi safe for tourists in Kathmandu?
Generally yes, with care. Crowds can be boisterous, and some revellers use water balloons or poor-quality colours. Women may face unwanted attention in the densest crowds, so we recommend going with a guide and leaving by early afternoon. Protect your eyes, phone and camera, and avoid drinking anything offered by strangers.
Why is Holi celebrated on different days in Nepal?
Nepal celebrates Holi on two days. The hills and the Kathmandu Valley play colours on the full moon of Phalgun, while the Terai, culturally closer to northern India, celebrates the following day. The government gives each region its own public holiday. If your journey crosses from Kathmandu to Chitwan or Lumbini, you may be able to enjoy both.
Festival journeys
Routes built around the calendar
