Swayambhunath at first light

Swayambhunath stands on a wooded hill about 3 km west of Kathmandu Durbar Square. Legend tells that the valley was once a lake and that a lotus bloomed on this hill, giving off a light that drew saints and pilgrims; geologists agree about the lake. The stupa is one of the oldest Buddhist sites in the valley and is revered by Buddhists and Hindus alike. Visitors often call it the Monkey Temple, after the rhesus macaques that live in the trees and on the shrines around the summit.

We arrive at the foot of the eastern stairway around 6.30 am. The climb is roughly 365 stone steps, steep in places, and takes most people 15 to 20 minutes with pauses. If stairs are difficult, the car can drive to an entrance on the western side near the top, leaving only a short flight. At the summit, the white dome carries a gilded tower painted on four sides with the eyes of the Buddha, ringed by shrines, prayer wheels, a monastery and a Hindu temple to Harati, protector of children.

Morning is when local people walk the circuit, light butter lamps and ring the bells, and when the light falls softly on the dome. On clear days in autumn and winter you can see right across the valley to the hills on its rim. We keep food, water bottles and sunglasses out of reach of the monkeys, which grab what they can. A foreign visitor entry fee applies; check current status before you travel. Breakfast follows back at the hotel or in a quiet café below the hill.