Mustang

Rain-shadow valleys, Muktinath and the walled city of Lo Manthang

Mustang is Nepal's high desert behind the Annapurnas, from Jomsom at 2,720 m to the walled city of Lo Manthang at about 3,840 m. A 20-minute morning flight from Pokhara reaches it. We base guests at Shinta Mani Mustang in Jomsom, then drive north by 4x4. Upper Mustang needs a USD 500 restricted area permit.

Photo: Carsten.nebel · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Mustang lies north of the main Himalayan chain, in the rain shadow of Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas, along the upper Kali Gandaki river. The landscape changes within a 20-minute flight from Pokhara: green terraces give way to bare cliffs in ochre, grey and red, poplar groves, wind-scoured plateaus and villages of whitewashed mud brick. For centuries this was a salt and grain route between Tibet and the Indian plains, and the culture of its upper half, the former kingdom of Lo, remains close to that of Tibet.

The district has two parts. Lower Mustang, from Jomsom through Marpha, Kagbeni and up to Muktinath, is open to all visitors with the standard Annapurna Conservation Area permit. North of Kagbeni begins Upper Mustang, a restricted area that needs a special permit of USD 500 per person for 10 days, booked through a registered agency with a licensed guide and at least two travellers. Lo Manthang, the walled capital of Lo at about 3,840 m, is the goal of most journeys there.

Because the monsoon barely reaches it, Mustang is one of the few Himalayan regions at its best from April to October, including July and August, when the rest of Nepal is wet. Winter is very cold and many Upper Mustang lodges close. We suggest six nights: three at Shinta Mani Mustang in Jomsom for Marpha, Kagbeni and Muktinath while acclimatising, and three in Lo Manthang, in the best simple lodge available, reached by a 6 to 7 hour drive across the plateau.

Highlights

What Mustang does best

Lo Manthang, the walled cityThe former capital of the kingdom of Lo sits at about 3,840 m inside mud-brick walls, with a royal palace and monasteries whose 15th-century murals have been carefully restored. Narrow lanes, prayer wheels, horses at the gates and almost no traffic make it one of the most complete old towns of the Himalaya.
Muktinath at 3,710 mA temple complex sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists. Pilgrims bathe under 108 stone water spouts and visit a small shrine where a natural gas flame burns beside running water. The drive up from Jomsom takes about 1.5 hours, with Dhaulagiri and Nilgiri behind you.
Kagbeni, the gateway to LoAt 2,810 m, where the Jhong Khola meets the Kali Gandaki, Kagbeni is a knot of mud-brick houses, barley fields and a red monastery. It marks the edge of the Upper Mustang restricted area, and its lanes and old fort ruins are the best introduction to the architecture further north.
The Kali Gandaki gorgeBetween Dhaulagiri (8,167 m) and Annapurna I (8,091 m), the Kali Gandaki cuts one of the deepest valleys on earth. Black fossil ammonites called shaligram, sacred to Hindus, are found in its river bed. The road and trail through the gorge show the change from forest to desert in a single day.
Marpha's apples and lanesMarpha is a Thakali village of whitewashed stone houses and flagged lanes about 6 km south of Jomsom. Apple orchards fill the valley floor, and the village makes cider, brandy, dried apple and apple pie. A small monastery sits above the roofs, reached by a short stairway.
Tiji festival in MayEach spring, usually in May, Lo Manthang holds the three-day Tiji festival, with masked dances by monks in the square before the palace that tell of the victory of a deity over a demon. Dates follow the Tibetan calendar; check current status before you travel and book Lo Manthang rooms months ahead.

Experiences

Four hours to plan around

culture · 3 days including the drive Lo Manthang, the walled capital of Lo Mustang, Nepal

spiritual · Half day from Jomsom Muktinath, sacred to Hindus and Buddhists Mustang, Nepal

culture · Half day Kagbeni, gateway village of Upper Mustang Mustang, Nepal

food · Half day Marpha apples and a Thakali kitchen Mustang, Nepal

Getting there

How to reach Mustang

Air

Twin Otter and small turboprop flights from Pokhara to Jomsom take about 20 minutes and operate in the morning only, because strong winds rise up the Kali Gandaki by late morning. Delays and cancellations for cloud or wind are common, so we keep a buffer day in Pokhara. Baggage limits are strict, often 10 to 15 kg; check current status before you travel.

Road

Pokhara to Jomsom is about 160 km and 7 to 9 hours by 4x4, via Beni and the Kali Gandaki gorge, on a road that is rough and prone to landslides in monsoon. From Jomsom to Lo Manthang is about 80 km and 6 to 7 hours by 4x4 on a dirt road through Kagbeni, Chele and the high plateau.

Helicopter

Private helicopter charters from Pokhara reach Jomsom in about 30 minutes and Lo Manthang in roughly an hour, weather permitting. They are useful when scheduled flights are grounded, or to fly out of Lo Manthang instead of repeating the long drive. Wind limits flying to the morning here too, and charters are priced per aircraft.

Where to stay

Rooms we book

Shinta Mani Mustang, A Bensley Collection, in Jomsom at 2,720 m, is the only luxury hotel in the district, run on an all-inclusive basis with guided excursions to Marpha, Kagbeni, Muktinath and beyond. It is our base for the first nights while you acclimatise. In Lo Manthang there is no luxury hotel: we use the best available lodge, with heated dining room and attached bathrooms where possible, and book it months ahead. Kagbeni and Marpha have simple, well-kept guesthouses for anyone walking between villages.

resort · Mustang Shinta Mani Mustang

A Bill Bensley-designed luxury lodge in Jomsom, at 2,720 m in the Kali Gandaki valley, and the most comfortable place to stay in Mustang. Stays are …

From our planners

Five things to know

Allow one spare day in Pokhara on both the way in and the way out, because Jomsom flights are often delayed or cancelled by wind and cloud.
Sleep at least two nights around 2,700 to 2,800 m before driving up to Lo Manthang, and never go higher with signs of altitude sickness.
Pack sunglasses, a buff and lip balm; afternoon wind in the Kali Gandaki valley carries dust and grit almost every day.
Bring enough Nepalese rupees in cash for Lo Manthang, where card payment and cash machines are unreliable or absent.
Ask before photographing inside monasteries in Lo Manthang; several forbid photography of murals, and a small donation is customary.

Questions travellers ask

Questions about Mustang

Where is Mustang and how do we get there?

Mustang is in north-central Nepal, behind the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges along the upper Kali Gandaki. Most guests fly Kathmandu to Pokhara and then take a 20-minute morning flight to Jomsom, the district's main town at 2,720 m. The alternative is about 160 km by 4x4 from Pokhara, 7 to 9 hours on a rough mountain road.

What is the difference between Lower and Upper Mustang?

Lower Mustang runs from Jomsom through Marpha, Kagbeni and Muktinath and needs only the ACAP permit. Upper Mustang, north of Kagbeni, was the kingdom of Lo; it is a restricted area with a special permit of USD 500 per person for 10 days, a licensed guide and at least two travellers. Check current status before you travel.

When is the best time to visit Mustang?

April to October. Mustang lies in the rain shadow, so July and August, the monsoon months elsewhere in Nepal, are dry here and good for travel, though the roads below Jomsom can be blocked by landslides. May brings the Tiji festival in Lo Manthang. November turns cold, and December to February is very cold, with many lodges closed.

How many nights do we need in Mustang?

Four nights is enough for Lower Mustang: Jomsom, Marpha, Kagbeni and Muktinath. To include Lo Manthang, plan at least six nights: three in Jomsom to acclimatise and explore, then three in Lo Manthang. Add a buffer day in Pokhara on each side, because flights to and from Jomsom are often delayed by wind and cloud.

Is altitude sickness a risk in Mustang?

Yes, moderately. Jomsom is at 2,720 m, Muktinath at 3,710 m and Lo Manthang about 3,840 m, with passes near 4,000 m on the drive. We sleep at least two nights around Jomsom before going higher, keep the daily rise in sleeping altitude modest, and never go up with symptoms. Consult a doctor about medication before travelling.

Is Shinta Mani Mustang the only luxury hotel in Mustang?

Yes. Shinta Mani Mustang, A Bensley Collection, in Jomsom is the only luxury hotel in the district, and it runs on an all-inclusive basis with guided excursions. Elsewhere, including Lo Manthang, Kagbeni and Marpha, lodgings are simple, family-run guesthouses. We book the best available rooms and plan the journey so the comfortable nights come first.

How reliable are Jomsom flights?

Less reliable than most domestic flights. They operate only in the morning, because strong winds blow up the Kali Gandaki from late morning, and they are often delayed or cancelled for cloud. We build a spare day into Pokhara on each side, and keep a 4x4 or helicopter charter as a back-up. Check current status before you travel.

Can Indian travellers visit Upper Mustang?

Yes. Indian nationals need no visa for Nepal, but the Upper Mustang restricted area permit applies to all foreigners, including Indians, at the same USD 500 for 10 days, plus ACAP at the SAARC rate. A passport is best for permit processing. Lower Mustang and Muktinath need only ACAP. Check current status before you travel.

What is the Tiji festival?

Tiji is a three-day festival in Lo Manthang, usually held in May, when monks of Chode monastery perform masked dances in the square before the palace. The dances retell the story of a deity defeating a demon to restore harmony to the land. Dates follow the Tibetan lunar calendar, rooms fill early, and dates should be checked before you travel.