Lo Manthang, the walled capital of Lo

The drive from Jomsom follows the Kali Gandaki north past Kagbeni, then climbs out of the valley through Chele and across passes near 4,000 m before dropping to the plateau of Lo. It takes 6 to 7 hours with stops for tea and photographs, on a dirt road that is dusty in spring and occasionally muddy in summer. The first sight of Lo Manthang is a compact rectangle of earthen walls on a broad plain, with fields of barley and buckwheat around it and bare hills behind.

Inside the walls are about 150 houses, the four-storey royal palace and three main monasteries. Jampa Lhakhang, from the 15th century, holds a large clay image of the Maitreya Buddha and painted mandalas on its walls, and Thubchen Gompa has a great assembly hall with tall wooden pillars and murals. Both were restored over many years by international conservators working with local craftsmen. The king's title was abolished in 2008, but the palace remains the family's home, and the town keeps its own rhythm.

On the second and third days we explore beyond the walls by horse or 4x4. Options include the cave dwellings and monastery at Chhoser, the cliff caves cut into the valley walls over centuries, and the villages of Namgyal and Tingkhar. Evenings are quiet and cold, with stars from horizon to horizon. Lodges are simple, so we book the best rooms with attached bathrooms well ahead. Upper Mustang requires a USD 500 restricted area permit for 10 days; check current status before you travel.