Kagbeni, gateway village of Upper Mustang

Kagbeni is about 11 km north of Jomsom, 45 minutes by car along the broad gravel bed of the Kali Gandaki. The village grew where two valleys meet and traders paused before heading north to Tibet or south to the lowlands. Its houses press close together, with flat roofs stacked with firewood, small windows against the wind and narrow tunnels that run beneath homes. Water channels run along the lanes to irrigate barley, buckwheat and apple orchards on the green fields around it.

At the centre stands Kag Chode Thupten Samphel Ling, a red-walled Sakya monastery with a prayer hall of old murals and statues. Young monks study here, and our guide arranges a quiet visit. Nearby are the crumbling walls of an old fort and two clay figures, a male and a female guardian, placed at the edges of the village to protect it. At the northern end a checkpost and a sign mark the start of the Upper Mustang restricted area.

The walk itself is short and level, about 1.5 to 2 hours with stops, so it suits most guests. We often combine Kagbeni with Muktinath, which lies 1 hour further up the valley, or with lunch at one of the village guesthouses before driving back to Jomsom. From the riverbank on the edge of the village there is a fine view up the Kali Gandaki towards Upper Mustang and back south to Nilgiri. Wind rises from late morning, so we start early and carry buffs and sunglasses.