Taumadhi Square at dusk with king curd
Nyatapola was raised in 1702 by King Bhupatindra Malla and dedicated to the goddess Siddhi Lakshmi, whose image inside is seen only by priests. Its five roofs rise about 30 m above Taumadhi Square on a five-stage plinth. Guarding the stairway are pairs of stone figures, each said to be ten times stronger than the pair below: two legendary wrestlers, then elephants, lions, griffins and finally two goddesses. The temple has stood through major earthquakes, including those of 1934 and 2015, with only limited damage.
We arrive in the late afternoon, when day groups have returned to Kathmandu and the square becomes a neighbourhood gathering place again. People sit on the temple steps, children play, and stallholders sell vegetables and fried snacks. Beside Nyatapola stands the three-tiered Bhairabnath temple, closely linked to the Bisket Jatra festival each April. Our guide tells its story while we sit on the steps and watch the light change on the brick fronts of the houses around the square.
Then we stop for juju dhau, the king curd. It is made from buffalo milk, boiled, sweetened and set overnight in unglazed clay pots that draw off moisture, giving a thick, creamy yoghurt. Shops around Taumadhi and Durbar Square serve it in small clay bowls. If you are staying for the evening, a rooftop table overlooking the square makes a quiet place for an early dinner before the 40-minute drive back to Kathmandu, or the shorter drive on to Dhulikhel.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
What is juju dhau?
Juju dhau, meaning king curd in Newari, is Bhaktapur's famous yoghurt. Buffalo milk is boiled, sweetened and set in unglazed clay pots, which absorb moisture and give a thick, creamy, slightly sweet curd. It is sold in small clay bowls across the old city and eaten as a snack or dessert. Because the milk is boiled first, most visitors eat it without trouble.
Can you climb the Nyatapola temple?
You can climb the stepped plinth as far as the top platform, past the guardian figures, but the temple interior is closed to the public. The steps are steep and uneven, with no rail, so take care, particularly coming down. The upper steps give a good view over Taumadhi Square. Many people simply sit on the lower steps to watch the square.
How tall is Nyatapola?
Nyatapola rises about 30 m including its plinth, which makes it one of the tallest temples in the Kathmandu Valley, and it is often described as the tallest pagoda in Nepal. It has five tiered roofs on a five-stage plinth. Built in 1702, it has survived several major earthquakes, including those of 1934 and 2015, with only limited damage.
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