At the potter's wheel in Pottery Square

Pottery Square, a short walk south of Durbar Square, is where Bhaktapur's potters work in the open. Clay is dug from nearby fields, kneaded by hand and foot, and thrown on wheels set at ground level. In the dry months the square fills with rows of pots, water jars, money boxes and oil lamps drying in the sun before they go into kilns covered with straw and ash. Much of the work is done by families of the Prajapati community, who have been potters in Bhaktapur for generations.

We arrange a session with one family who are happy to teach. The potter shows how a lump of clay is centred, opened and pulled up into a pot in under a minute. Then you try. Most first attempts collapse, which is part of the fun, and the potter's hands guide yours until a small bowl or lamp takes shape. Children especially enjoy it. Aprons are provided, but clay splashes, so we suggest old clothes or a change of trousers in the car.

Your piece is set out to dry with the rest, though it cannot be fired the same day. If you are staying several more days in the valley, we can collect it once fired; otherwise you can buy a finished small pot from the same family. The session lasts about 45 minutes, with time before and after to walk around the square and watch the kilns. Work is slower in the monsoon, when pots cannot dry outside, so we plan this for the dry months.