Changu Narayan and the ridge villages
Changu Narayan stands on a hilltop at the eastern end of the valley, about 6 km north of Bhaktapur and 20 to 30 minutes by road. It is dedicated to Vishnu as Narayan, and the site has been a place of worship for at least 1,500 years. A stone pillar in the courtyard carries an inscription of King Manadeva dated to 464 CE, among the oldest in Nepal. The temple itself is a two-tiered pagoda, rebuilt after a fire in 1702 and repaired again after the 2015 earthquake.
The courtyard is an open-air gallery of Licchavi and Malla sculpture. Our guide shows you Vishnu as Vishvarupa, the cosmic form, and as Narasimha, the man-lion, and the kneeling Garuda that faces the temple door. Many pieces date from the 5th to the 9th centuries and are carved in fine dark stone. The temple's carved roof struts show the many forms of Vishnu in painted wood. Non-Hindus may walk around the courtyard freely but may not enter the inner sanctum.
From the temple, a lane of old houses, small cafés and a private museum leads down through the village. We then walk for about an hour on paths along the ridge, through terraced fields and past farmhouses, with views back over the Kathmandu Valley and, on clear days, to the Himalaya. The car meets you at the end. Changu Narayan is one of the valley's seven World Heritage monument zones, and a separate entry fee applies; check current status before you travel.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
How far is Changu Narayan from Bhaktapur?
About 6 km north, or 20 to 30 minutes by car on a winding hill road. From central Kathmandu it is about 20 km and 50 to 70 minutes. We usually visit Changu Narayan in the morning and Bhaktapur in the afternoon, or the other way round, which makes a full day without rushing either of them.
Can I walk from Nagarkot to Changu Narayan?
Yes, it is a well-known walk of about 4 to 5 hours, mostly downhill along a ridge through villages, pine forest and terraced fields, ending at Changu Narayan. It suits reasonably fit walkers, and the car meets you at the temple. We plan it from a Nagarkot or Dhulikhel stay, starting after breakfast, in the dry months from October to April.
Is Changu Narayan worth the detour?
Yes, if you like sculpture and history. It is quieter than the city squares and holds some of the oldest stone carving in Nepal, from the 5th century onwards, in a peaceful hilltop setting among village houses. With only two days in the valley, we would see the city squares first and keep Changu Narayan for a longer stay.
Also in Bhaktapur
More hours to plan around
