Karimeen lunch at a lakeside toddy shop

Toddy shops, or kallu shappu, began as simple sheds selling fresh palm wine tapped from the coconut flower. Over time, the food served alongside became famous in its own right, and some of the most flavourful cooking in Kerala happens in these places. In Kumarakom, a few well-run shops sit on the canals and are reached by boat, with family rooms set apart from the main bar.

The star is karimeen pollichathu: pearl spot fish from Vembanad, marinated in chilli, shallots, ginger and curry leaves, wrapped in banana leaf and cooked on a hot pan. Other dishes include duck roast, crab and prawn roast, beef fry, kappa (boiled tapioca) with red fish curry, and pickles of fish or mango. Food is eaten with the hand, and is spicier than at hotels.

Toddy is mildly alcoholic, sweet and slightly sour when fresh, and stronger as the day goes on. Taste it if you are curious; there is no pressure. We choose shops with clean kitchens and family areas and go with a guide who orders well and asks for spice levels to suit you. For guests who prefer a hotel setting, resorts serve the same dishes at lunch.