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Kannurfood

Thalassery biryani and Kannur's looms

A day of Malabar food and weaving: a visit to a Kannur handloom cooperative to watch the looms, then south to Thalassery for its distinctive biryani made with short-grain kaima rice, Malabar snacks, the old British fort and the bungalow of Hermann Gundert.
Thalassery biryani and Kannur's looms
Photo: Chandana12 · CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

Kannur's handloom tradition goes back centuries, and today it is organised in cooperatives and small units producing cotton fabrics, towels, bedlinen and furnishing materials. We visit a working weaving unit where you see yarn dyed, warped and woven on wooden looms, and talk with the weavers. Many units have small shops where you can buy fabrics at fair prices.

Thalassery, about 22 km south, is famous across Kerala for its biryani, made with kaima or jeerakasala rice, a fragrant short-grain variety, layered with chicken or mutton cooked in Malabar spices, ghee, fried onions and cashews. We take you to a well-known family restaurant for lunch and also try Malabar snacks such as unnakaya, a stuffed banana dumpling, and kallummakkaya, stuffed mussels.

After lunch, we visit Thalassery fort, built by the British East India Company in the early 18th century, and the Gundert Bungalow at Illikkunnu, home of the German missionary Hermann Gundert, who compiled one of the first Malayalam-English dictionaries. The drive back passes Muzhappilangad beach for the late afternoon. Opening hours vary, so check current status before you travel.

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

What makes Thalassery biryani different?

Thalassery biryani uses kaima or jeerakasala, a small, fragrant short-grain rice, instead of long-grain basmati. The meat is cooked separately in a Malabar spice blend and layered with the rice, ghee, fried onions, cashews and raisins. It is milder and more aromatic than many northern biryanis.

Can we buy handloom fabric in Kannur?

Yes. Kannur's handloom cooperatives and small units sell cotton fabrics, bedlinen, towels and furnishing material directly, often at good prices. Quality varies, so we take you to units we know. Large orders can be shipped home. Payment by card is not always accepted, so carry some cash.

How far is Thalassery from Kannur?

About 22 km south, roughly 45 minutes by car on the coastal highway. It combines easily with Muzhappilangad drive-in beach and Dharmadam island, which lie between the two towns. Allow a full afternoon if you want lunch, the fort and the Gundert Bungalow.

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