St. Angelo Fort and the Arakkal palace

St. Angelo Fort was built in 1505 by Francisco de Almeida, the first Portuguese viceroy of India, with permission from the Kolathiri raja. It passed to the Dutch in 1663 and then the British in the late 18th century, who made it a major military station. Today it is protected by the Archaeological Survey of India: a triangular laterite fortress with a moat, ramparts, a small chapel and cannon pointing out to sea.

From the ramparts you look down on Mappila Bay, a natural harbour full of fishing boats, which the Arakkal family controlled for centuries. The Arakkal were Kerala's only Muslim royal house, ruling Kannur and, for a time, the Lakshadweep islands, with a succession that passed through the female line. Their palace, Arakkal Kettu, is near the bay, and part of it is now a museum of the family's furniture, weapons, documents and portraits.

Your guide explains how Kannur's position made it valuable to every power on the coast, and the role of the Mappila Muslim community in the region's trade. We finish with lunch, perhaps a Malabar biryani or fish curry meal, at a local restaurant. The fort and museum keep set hours and the museum may close on some days, so check current status before you travel.