Luxury lodges and hotels of Nepal

Dwarika's Hotel in Battisputali is our first choice in Kathmandu and the stay most guests remember. Its courtyards and buildings are set with salvaged Newari carved woodwork, windows, struts and doorways rescued from old valley houses, so the hotel works as a quiet introduction to the craft you will see in Patan and Bhaktapur. Krishnarpan, its restaurant, serves a multi-course Nepali tasting menu that we book for at least one evening, and there is a pool for warm afternoons. It is close to Pashupatinath and Boudhanath.

Other good Kathmandu choices are Hyatt Regency Kathmandu, on large grounds a short walk from Boudhanath stupa; Kathmandu Marriott Hotel; and Hotel Yak & Yeti in the city centre. Gokarna Forest Resort, beside forest on the north-eastern edge of the valley, suits travellers who want space and quiet away from traffic.

Dwarika's Resort Dhulikhel, about 30 km east of Kathmandu at around 1,550 m, is a sister property with a wellness focus: yoga, meditation, a spa and an organic farm, with Himalayan views on clear mornings. It pairs well with a day in Bhaktapur and the walk to Namobuddha monastery, and makes a calm first or last stop on a longer trip.

Pokhara has two stays we use most. Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge is a group of stone cottages on a ridge above the Pokhara valley, with long views of Annapurna and Machapuchare, a pool and guided walks that start from the door through villages and terraces. That makes it the natural base for travellers who want gentle walking rather than trekking. It sits outside the city, so allow a short drive down to the lake. Lakeside, the town's strip of cafes and shops on the eastern shore of Phewa Lake, is lively in the evenings but can be noisy; we prefer guests sleep up on the ridge or out on the farm.

The Pavilions Himalayas, also called The Farm, has eco-luxury villas on an organic farm outside Pokhara, with a spa and pool. It suits couples and travellers who want privacy and a slower pace, and it pairs well with wellness days at Dhulikhel.

Closer to town, Fish Tail Lodge sits on the shore of Phewa Lake with views to the mountains, and Temple Tree Resort & Spa is a comfortable choice in Lakeside. In the Annapurna foothills beyond Nayapul there is no luxury lodging. Villages such as Ghandruk and Ghorepani have simple teahouses and a few better lodges; we keep nights there short, walks to 4 to 6 hours, and bring guests back to Pokhara for comfort.

Meghauli Serai, A Taj Safari, is the stay we use most in Chitwan. It sits on the Rapti River on the western side of the park, about 1 to 1.5 hours' drive west of Bharatpur airport, with Tharu-inspired design and a pool that faces the river and the grassland beyond. Jeep safaris, dugout canoe trips, guided walks and Tharu village visits are led by naturalists, away from the busier eastern side of the park around Sauraha. For February to April, the best safari months, Meghauli Serai is the first room we secure.

Other good Chitwan choices include Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge, in western Chitwan at Amaltari, built in the longhouse style of the Tharu people; Barahi Jungle Lodge; and Kasara Resort. We do not book elephant rides at any of them.

In Bardia, far to the west, Tiger Tops Karnali Lodge is our choice: a Tharu-style lodge that runs jeep and walking safaris and trips on the Karnali river, where Gangetic dolphins live. Bardia sees far fewer visitors than Chitwan and the lodge has a quiet, remote feel. Getting there means a flight of about an hour from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj and a drive of about 2.5 hours, so we suggest at least three nights.

In the Khumbu, the Yeti Mountain Home lodges offer the best lodge-to-lodge comfort on the Everest trail. There are lodges at Lukla, Phakding, Monjo, Namche, Kongde and Thame, which lets us plan walking days of 3 to 6 hours with a comfortable room and good food at each stop. They are the backbone of our short walk to Namche Bazaar and our 12-night lodge-to-lodge trek. Rooms are simple by city standards, but a clear step up from standard teahouses.

Hotel Everest View, at Syangboche (3,880 m) above Namche, is known for its terrace looking up the valley to Everest and Ama Dablam. It is a popular breakfast stop for helicopter tours and a fine lunch stop on a rest day in Namche. We are cautious about sleeping there on the first nights in the region because of the altitude, and prefer guests sleep at Namche (3,440 m) first and visit on foot. Because Lukla flights are often delayed by cloud, we always hold a spare night in the plan, either in the Khumbu or back in Kathmandu.

Shinta Mani Mustang, A Bensley Collection, sits in Jomsom at 2,720 m in the Kali Gandaki valley. It is all-inclusive, with guided excursions built into the stay, to places such as Kagbeni, Muktinath temple, the apple village of Marpha and the Kali Gandaki gorge. It is the base of our 10-night Mustang journey, reached by a 20-minute morning flight from Pokhara. Jomsom flights run in the morning only, because wind rises in the Kali Gandaki valley by late morning, and they are often delayed; the road from Pokhara, about 160 km and 7 to 9 hours, is the back-up.

North of Kagbeni, in Upper Mustang, there is no comparable hotel. In Lo Manthang, at about 3,840 m, we use the best available lodge, simple but clean, for three nights, and guests return to Jomsom for a comfortable finish.

Nights are what we usually suggest; longer stays are easy to arrange, and room types and rates change with the season.

Some places have no true luxury hotel, and we say so plainly. Lumbini has clean, simple hotels near the sacred garden and the monastic zone, and we keep stays there to one or two nights, often paired with Chitwan. Patan and Bhaktapur are best as day trips from Kathmandu or Dhulikhel, though both have heritage guesthouses in restored Newar houses for travellers who want to wake in the old town and see the squares before the day visitors arrive.

In Bandipur, the car-free Newar hill town between Kathmandu and Pokhara, The Old Inn is the best stay: simple, full of character and right on the bazaar. One night there breaks the drive well. In each of these places we choose the best room available and tell you exactly what to expect.