Lathmar Holi in Barsana and Nandgaon
Phalgun Shukla Navami and Dashami, a few days before Holi; late February or March (lunar calendar)
Holi in Braj, the country of Krishna around Mathura and Vrindavan, lasts for more than a week. The most famous day is Lathmar Holi in Barsana, about 45 km from Mathura. Recalling Krishna's visits to tease Radha and her friends, men from Nandgaon come to Barsana and are met by the women with lathis, long bamboo sticks, while they protect themselves with shields.
The day begins with Laddoo Holi at the Radha Rani temple on the hill the day before, when sweets are thrown to devotees. Lathmar Holi itself fills the lanes and temple courtyard with colour, songs and huge crowds. The following day, Barsana's men go to Nandgaon and the play is repeated there.
Other Braj celebrations include the flower Holi at Banke Bihari in Vrindavan and the huranga at Baldeo the day after Holi. Crowds are very dense and the colour is everywhere. Dates follow the lunar calendar; check current status before you travel.
How to do it well
- Wear old cotton clothes and cover your hair; the colours can stain for days.
- Protect cameras and phones with rain covers and keep valuables to a minimum.
- Stay with your guide and leave before the lanes become impassable.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
When is Lathmar Holi celebrated?
Lathmar Holi takes place in Barsana on Phalgun Shukla Navami, usually five or six days before the main Holi festival, which falls in late February or March. Nandgaon celebrates the next day. Dates are set by the lunar calendar and announced each year; check current status before you travel.
Is Lathmar Holi safe for women travellers?
It can be enjoyed with care, but crowds are dense and some men behave inappropriately. We recommend women travel with a guide and group, watch from a reserved rooftop or balcony where possible and leave before the afternoon peak. Vrindavan's temple Holi is a calmer alternative.
Where should I stay for Lathmar Holi?
There are no luxury hotels near Barsana. Most of our guests stay in Agra, about 2.5 hours away, or in simple hotels in Vrindavan for two or three nights to be close to the celebrations. Book months ahead for Holi week.
What should I bring for Holi in Braj?
Old cotton clothes you can discard, a scarf or cap for your hair, sunglasses to protect your eyes, waterproof covers for cameras and phones, and a small amount of cash in a zip bag. Oiling skin and hair beforehand makes the colour easier to remove.
Festival journeys
Routes built around the calendar
