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Hot springs, cyclopean walls and Venuvana

Trace the old city of Rajagriha: the dry-stone cyclopean wall that ringed the hills, the bamboo grove of Venuvana given to the Buddha, the busy hot springs at Vaibhar hill and the site of Bimbisara's prison.
Hot springs, cyclopean walls and Venuvana
Photo: Indianvagabond · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Rajgir's cyclopean wall, built of large undressed stones without mortar, once ran about 40 km around the hills that enclosed the ancient capital. Sections survive on the ridges and are easy to see from the road. It is among the oldest stone structures in India, dated by many to before the Mauryan period.

In the valley, Venuvana is a bamboo grove with a pond, said to be the park King Bimbisara gave to the Buddha and his monks, now a quiet garden. Nearby is the site traditionally identified as Bimbisara's jail, where his son Ajatashatru imprisoned him; by tradition, the king could see the Buddha on Vulture Peak from his cell.

At the foot of Vaibhar hill, the Brahmakund hot springs flow into bathing tanks used by Hindu pilgrims, busy and noisy, especially in winter. A stone stairway climbs from here past Jain shrines to the Saptaparni cave, site of the first Buddhist council, for those with the energy.

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

Can I bathe in the Rajgir hot springs?

The hot springs at Brahmakund are open to bathers, and many Hindu pilgrims take a ritual bath, especially in winter. The tanks are crowded and basic, with separate areas for men and women. Most of our guests prefer to watch rather than bathe. Dress modestly if you do.

What is the cyclopean wall of Rajgir?

It is a dry-stone wall built of large, roughly shaped stones without mortar, which once ran about 40 km around the hills of ancient Rajagriha. It is believed to be among the oldest stone structures in India, built before the Mauryan period, and sections survive on the ridges around Rajgir.

What is the Saptaparni cave?

The Saptaparni cave on Vaibhar hill is traditionally the site of the first Buddhist council, held soon after the Buddha's death, where his disciples recited and agreed his teachings. Reaching it requires a steep climb of about 45 minutes from the hot springs.

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