Lathmar Holi day in Barsana
Barsana lies about 45 km north-west of Mathura, on a hill crowned by the Radha Rani temple. Each year, a few days before Holi, men from Nandgaon, Krishna's village, come to Barsana to tease the women, recalling Krishna's visits to Radha. The women respond with lathis, long bamboo sticks, and the men protect themselves with leather shields. The next day the roles reverse in Nandgaon.
The day starts with songs and colour at the temple and spills into the lanes in the afternoon. Crowds are huge and the colour goes everywhere. We arrange a rooftop or balcony vantage point in advance where possible, keep you with a local guide at all times and leave before the lanes become impassable.
Wear old cotton clothes you will not need again, cover your hair, and protect cameras and phones with rain covers. Women travellers should stay with the group, as crowds can turn rowdy. Dates move with the lunar calendar, so check current status before you travel.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
When is Lathmar Holi in Barsana?
Lathmar Holi falls on Phalgun Shukla Navami, usually five or six days before the main Holi day, which itself falls in late February or March. The Nandgaon version follows the next day. Dates are set by the lunar calendar and announced each year, so check current status before you travel and book Agra rooms early.
Is Lathmar Holi safe for foreign tourists?
It can be enjoyed safely with planning. Crowds are very dense, colour is thrown at everyone and some men behave badly, especially towards women. We arrange a vantage point off the street where possible, keep a guide with you throughout and leave early. Children and frail travellers are better watching Holi in Vrindavan's temples instead.
Where should I stay for Holi in Braj?
There are no luxury hotels in Barsana or Vrindavan. Most of our guests stay in Agra, about 2.5 hours from Barsana, or in the best simple hotels in Vrindavan for two or three nights to be close to the events. Book months ahead, as everything nearby fills for the Holi week.
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