An Awadhi food walk through Chowk and Aminabad

Awadhi cooking developed in the kitchens of the nawabs, where cooks used slow heat, sealed pots and fragrant spices like mace, cardamom and saffron. The dum method, cooking food in a sealed pot over low heat, is its signature. Most of the old places are small, crowded and decades old, and the best way in is with a guide who knows which dish each kitchen does best.

We begin in Aminabad or Chowk with galouti kebab, minced meat ground very fine with spices, served on a small paratha. Legend says it was created for a nawab who had lost his teeth. Next come nihari, slow-cooked meat in a rich gravy, with kulcha bread, and a portion of mutton biryani, lighter and more fragrant than many Indian biryanis.

For vegetarians the walk switches to basket chaat, khasta kachori and the city's paneer and kofta dishes. We end with kulfi in a clay cup or, in winter, with makhan malai. Your guide manages hygiene, choosing busy kitchens and freshly cooked food. Check opening hours before you travel, as old shops close on some days.