The Bara Imambara and its rooftop maze
Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula began the Bara Imambara in 1784, in a year of famine, and is said to have kept people employed on its construction. An imambara is a hall used by Shia Muslims for mourning ceremonies during Muharram. Its central hall, about 50 m long, is roofed by a vault built without beams, an engineering feat for its time.
Above the hall runs the Bhool Bhulaiya, a maze of hundreds of narrow, identical passages built to spread the weight of the roof. A licensed guide is required inside and leads you to the rooftop, where you see the domes of the Asfi Mosque, the Rumi Darwaza and the old city stretching towards the Gomti. The whispering gallery carries sound clearly across the hall.
Within the complex are the Asfi Mosque, closed to non-Muslims inside, and the Shahi Baoli, a stepwell with several underground levels. The combined ticket usually includes the Chota Imambara, a short drive away. Check current status before you travel, as access changes during Muharram.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
What is the Bhool Bhulaiya in Lucknow?
The Bhool Bhulaiya is a maze of narrow, interconnecting passages above the main hall of the Bara Imambara. It was built to support the roof by spreading its weight, and its identical turnings make it easy to lose your way. Visitors go in with a licensed guide, and the route ends on the rooftop with views over the old city.
Do I need to dress conservatively at the Bara Imambara?
Yes. The imambara is a religious building. Cover shoulders and knees, and women may be asked to cover their heads in some areas. Shoes are removed in parts of the complex. Non-Muslims can visit the hall, maze and stepwell but not the interior of the Asfi Mosque.
How long does a visit to the Bara Imambara take?
Allow about two hours for the main hall, the Bhool Bhulaiya, the rooftop and the Shahi Baoli, plus 30 minutes for the Chota Imambara nearby. Mornings are quieter and cooler. The steps in the maze are narrow and steep in places, so those with mobility issues may prefer to stay in the hall.
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