Ponda's temples of Mangueshi and Shantadurga
When the Portuguese destroyed temples in the coastal provinces in the 16th century, many communities carried their deities across the river into Ponda, then outside Portuguese rule. The temples they built there over the next two centuries are the heart of Hindu Goa. The drive from Old Goa takes about 40 minutes through Banastarim and across the plateau.
Shri Mangueshi, dedicated to a form of Shiva, has a whitewashed temple with a tiered roof, a seven-storey deepastambha or lamp tower, and a large tank. Shri Shantadurga at Kavlem, a few kilometres away, is the larger complex, with a pinkish-red façade and a European-style dome reflecting the time it was built. Both are active temples, busy with families in the mornings and evenings.
Your guide explains the Saraswat communities who look after the temples, the rituals and the festivals, including the chariot processions held at each. The drive back passes spice and areca plantations, and a stop for a vegetarian Goan thali is easy to add.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
How far are the Ponda temples from Old Goa?
Shri Mangueshi is about 20 km from Old Goa, around 35 to 40 minutes by car. Shri Shantadurga at Kavlem is a further 10 to 15 minutes. From Panjim the drive is about 45 minutes. A half day covers both temples comfortably.
Can non-Hindus enter the Ponda temples?
Visitors of all faiths are generally welcome in the temple courtyards and halls, though the inner sanctum is reserved for worshippers. Dress modestly, remove shoes at the entrance and follow the priests' guidance on photography, which is usually not allowed inside.
What is the best time to visit Mangueshi Temple?
Early morning, from 7 to 9 am, or late afternoon, when the evening aarti is performed and the lamps are lit. Festival days, including the annual jatra, bring large crowds and processions. Avoid midday, when the courtyard stone is hot underfoot.
Also in Old Goa
More hours to plan around
