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Margao market and the Holy Spirit Church

A morning in south Goa's market town with a local food guide: the covered market for chouriço, spices and fish, the Baroque Holy Spirit Church and the old houses around it, and a stop for Goan sweets and coffee.
Margao market and the Holy Spirit Church
Photo: Portugal Editor Exploration · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Margao, or Madgaon, is the commercial capital of south Goa, and its markets supply the whole of Salcete. The covered municipal market and the streets around it sell everything from dried fish and red chillies to chouriço, toddy vinegar, cashews and Goan sweets, and the fish market is busy from early morning.

Your guide explains the ingredients of south Goan cooking and helps you choose spice mixes, cashews and sausage to take home. From the market, we walk to the old town, where the Church of the Holy Spirit, built in the late 16th century and rebuilt in the 17th, stands on a square of old houses, among them some of the grandest town houses in Goa.

We finish with coffee and Goan sweets such as bebinca, dodol and perad, guava cheese, at an old bakery or café, then return to your resort before the midday heat.

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

What is Margao market known for?

It is south Goa's main market, known for spices, recheado and xacuti masalas, Goan chouriço, dried and fresh fish, cashews, and sweets such as bebinca, dodol and guava cheese. It is a working market used mainly by Goans.

Is the Holy Spirit Church in Margao open to visitors?

The church is generally open for mass and to visitors at set times, usually in the morning and late afternoon. Dress modestly and avoid service times. Hours vary, so check current status before you travel.

How far is Margao from Benaulim?

About 6 km, roughly 15 minutes by car. From Cavelossim it is about 25 minutes, and from Majorda 20. Margao also has the main railway station for south Goa.

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