Private journeys in seven lands · a planner replies within one working day
Try "Udaipur", "tiger", "honeymoon", "Ladakh in July"
Five nights that keep the Ganges at the centre: three at BrijRama Palace on Darbhanga Ghat, two at Taj Nadesar Palace. Dawn and dusk on the water, the aarti from a boat, Ramnagar Fort across the river, a day upstream to the fort at Chunar, the old city and Sarnath, all at a slow pace.
Most visitors give Varanasi two nights. This journey gives it five and stays close to the river, which is the city's reason for being. You sleep on the ghats at BrijRama Palace, arrive and leave by boat, watch the aarti from the water, and spend a full day upstream at the sandstone fort of Chunar, where the river bends below the walls.
We are often asked about multi-night luxury cruises on the Ganges. Several companies have run them on the lower river between Kolkata and Varanasi, but schedules change and we only recommend operators we know well, so check current status before you travel. This journey uses private boats on the Varanasi stretch, which gives the same intimacy with the river without fixed departures.
Highlights
Day by day
Your driver meets you at Varanasi airport and takes you to the river, where a private boat carries you along the ghats to BrijRama Palace on Darbhanga Ghat. It is the finest way to arrive in the city. After lunch and a rest, walk with your guide along the ghats to Dashashwamedh for the evening aarti, watching from a reserved place on the steps before returning on foot for dinner on the palace terrace.
Step down from the palace before sunrise into a wooden rowing boat and drift downstream past Dashashwamedh and Manikarnika towards Panchganga Ghat and the minarets of Alamgir Mosque. Land and walk into the old city lanes with your guide, past shrines and courtyards to the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, with breakfast of kachori and jalebi on the way. Afternoon at leisure; at dusk, watch the aarti from a private boat.
A second dawn boat heads upstream past Assi Ghat, where the morning aarti and music begin the day, towards the sandy east bank. Later in the morning, cross by car to Ramnagar Fort, the 18th-century sandstone seat of the maharajas of Benares, with its museum of old cars, palanquins, arms and costumes. Return for a long lunch. In the evening, we can arrange a private recital of classical music at the palace.
After breakfast, move to Taj Nadesar Palace, then drive about 40 km south-west to Chunar, where a fort stands on a rock above a bend in the Ganges. Its walls have been held by many rulers, including Sher Shah Suri and the Mughals. Walk the ramparts with your guide for wide views of the river, then take a short boat ride below the walls when the water level allows. Return to the gardens of Nadesar Palace for a quiet evening.
Morning with a family of Banarasi silk weavers at their handlooms in the weaving quarters, followed by time at a trusted showroom if you wish. After lunch, drive to Sarnath, where the Buddha gave his first sermon, for the Dhamek Stupa, the museum and the evening chanting at the Mulagandha Kuti Vihara. The museum is closed on Fridays.
A slow breakfast in the palace gardens, then transfer to Varanasi airport for your onward flight. If time allows, a final short visit to the ghats is possible on the way. In December and January we prefer midday departures, as fog can delay early flights.
Included
Not included
Where you sleep
A restored early 19th-century palace on Darbhanga Ghat, directly above the Ganges, a short walk from the evening aarti at Dashashwamedh. It is the best place …
A small former royal guest house of the maharajas of Benares, set in large gardens in the Varanasi cantonment. With only a handful of suites, it …
Shape your own journey Tell us your dates and what you hope to feel. We draw the route around you. Begin Not sure where to start? We match the land to your month, your pace and the people travelling with you. Begin Talk to a planner A first route and an indicative price within one working day. No payment to start. BeginGood to know
Questions travellers ask
Several companies have run multi-night cruises on the Ganges, mostly on the lower river between Kolkata and Varanasi, and schedules change. We recommend only operators we know well; check current status before you travel. This journey uses private boats on the Varanasi stretch instead, with no fixed departures.
Five nights let you see the river at dawn and dusk several times, upstream and downstream, and add Ramnagar, Chunar and Sarnath without rushing. The city reveals itself slowly, and most guests who stay longer say the extra days were the best part of their trip.
Yes. Some guests prefer to stay on the river throughout. We suggest two nights at Taj Nadesar Palace for contrast and quiet, and because it is closer to Sarnath and Chunar, but we will plan whichever you prefer. Rates at BrijRama vary by room, so we will quote both options.
Yes, for its setting on a rock above a bend in the Ganges and its long history of sieges. It is quieter than Varanasi's sights and gives a different view of the river. Some areas may be closed; check current status before you travel.
Ramnagar Fort, on the east bank of the Ganges opposite Varanasi, was built in the 18th century as the seat of the maharajas of Benares. Part is still the family residence; part is a museum with vintage cars, palanquins, weapons and costumes. Each autumn it hosts the month-long Ramnagar Ramlila.
October to March, when the river is at a comfortable level and the weather mild. November can include Dev Deepawali with advance booking. December and January bring misty dawns, beautiful on the river but cold. From July to September high water limits boat rides.
It involves steps on the ghats and within the palace, and arrival is by boat or on foot. Travellers with limited mobility may find it challenging. In that case we base the whole stay at Taj Nadesar Palace and drive to the river for boats.
Yes. Varanasi has a strong tradition of classical music, and we can arrange a private recital of sitar, tabla or vocal music at the hotel or a ghat-side house. It is one of the most memorable evenings of the journey for many guests.
Yes. Prayagraj and the Sangam are about 120 km and 2.5 to 3 hours away. A long day trip can replace Chunar, or we can add a night. In January and February, the Magh Mela makes the Sangam especially rewarding.
More in UP & Bihar
Begin a journey
Dates, who is travelling and what you hope to feel. A planner replies within one working day with a first route and an indicative price.