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Tales of Luxury
Rajasthan6 nights · 7 daysUnhurried

Painted havelis of Shekhawati

Six nights from Delhi to Jaipur through the painted merchant towns of Shekhawati, with a specialist guide, then a night at Samode Palace and two at Rambagh. A slow journey for travellers who love art, architecture and quiet roads.

Painted havelis of Shekhawati
Photo: Digrajsingh · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

Shekhawati is Rajasthan's open-air gallery: small towns where merchant families covered their havelis, temples and cenotaphs with frescoes from the 18th to the early 20th century. Few visitors give it the time it needs. This journey spends three nights there, with a specialist guide who knows the caretakers and the stories behind the paintings.

From Shekhawati, the road leads south to Samode, where the palace's painted Durbar Hall is a fitting end to the frescoes, and then to Jaipur for two nights at Rambagh Palace, Amber Fort and the old city.

Highlights

Why this route works

  1. Three nights in Shekhawati with a specialist guide
  2. Podar Haveli Museum in Nawalgarh and the Le Prince haveli in Fatehpur
  3. Painted chhatris of Ramgarh
  4. Durbar Hall and Sheesh Mahal at Samode Palace
  5. Amber Fort and two nights at Rambagh Palace

Day by day

The journey

Day01

Delhi to Mandawa

Overnight: Mandawa≈ 260 km · 5.5 hMeals: Dinner

Your driver meets you in Delhi, at the airport or your hotel, for the drive west into Rajasthan. The road leaves the city through Gurugram and crosses the farmland of Haryana before reaching the sandy country of Shekhawati. Check in at a heritage hotel in Mandawa and take a short evening walk around the fort.

Day02

Mandawa's painted havelis

Overnight: MandawaMeals: Breakfast, Dinner

A morning walk through Mandawa with a specialist guide, entering havelis painted with gods, battles, trains and Englishmen. Learn how merchant families lived and how the frescoes were made. Lunch at the hotel and a rest. In the late afternoon, a drive into the countryside to see a stepwell and a village.

Day03

Fatehpur and Ramgarh

Overnight: Mandawa≈ 100 km round trip · 2.5 hMeals: Breakfast, Dinner

Drive to Fatehpur to visit the Haveli Nadine Le Prince, restored by a French artist, and nearby havelis still awaiting restoration. Lunch in the haveli's courtyard café. Continue to Ramgarh for the Poddar chhatris, whose domes are painted with the Ramayana. Return to Mandawa at dusk.

Day04

Nawalgarh and on to Samode

Overnight: Samode≈ 155 km · 3.5 hMeals: Breakfast, Dinner

Drive to Nawalgarh for the Podar Haveli Museum and the Morarka Haveli. Continue south to Samode Palace for a late lunch. In the late afternoon, a member of the palace team shows you the Durbar Hall and Sheesh Mahal. Climb to the fort for sunset, or watch it from a terrace.

Day05

Samode to Jaipur and the bazaars

Overnight: Jaipur≈ 42 km · 1 hMeals: Breakfast

An early walk through Samode village, breakfast, then drive to Jaipur and check in at Rambagh Palace. After lunch and a rest, walk the old city bazaars with your guide, from Hawa Mahal through Johari Bazaar to the brass and bangle sellers of Tripolia.

Day06

Amber Fort and the City Palace

Overnight: JaipurMeals: Breakfast, Dinner

Reach Amber Fort as it opens and see the courtyards before the crowds. After lunch, visit Jantar Mantar and the City Palace. End the day with dinner at Suvarna Mahal in Rambagh Palace.

Day07

Depart Jaipur

≈ 12 km · 30 minMeals: Breakfast

Breakfast in the palace gardens, then transfer to Jaipur airport for your flight, or continue by road or train to Delhi, Agra or the rest of Rajasthan.

Map of Shekhawati (Mandawa), Samode, JaipurIndiaChinaPakistanShekhawati (Mandawa)1Shekhawati (Mandawa)Samode2SamodeJaipur3Jaipur100 kmN
  1. 1Shekhawati (Mandawa) 3 nights
  2. 2Samode 1 night
  3. 3Jaipur 2 nights
Drawn by Tales of Luxury from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). Borders as depicted by India. Not for navigation.

Included

  • 6 nights: 3 in a Shekhawati heritage hotel, 1 at Samode Palace, 2 at Rambagh Palace
  • Daily breakfast and the dinners listed
  • Private car and driver from Delhi to Jaipur
  • Specialist Shekhawati guide for three days and a private guide in Jaipur
  • Haveli entries, caretaker fees and monument tickets

Not included

  • Flights
  • Visa and travel insurance
  • Drinks and meals not listed
  • Tips and personal expenses

Good to know

  1. Shekhawati hotels are heritage properties with character, not full luxury
  2. Many havelis are private; access depends on caretakers and can change
  3. Winter nights in Shekhawati can drop to 2–5 °C
  4. Do not touch the frescoes, and avoid flash photography indoors
  5. The journey can start in Jaipur instead of Delhi

Questions travellers ask

Good to know

Why spend three nights in Shekhawati

The painted towns are spread out, and the frescoes reward slow looking. Three nights allows Mandawa, Nawalgarh, Fatehpur and Ramgarh without rushing, plus time in the countryside. We base you in Mandawa, walk its havelis on day 2 and make a 100 km round trip to Fatehpur and Ramgarh on day 3. Nawalgarh's Podar Haveli Museum comes on day 4, on the way south to Samode.

Is Shekhawati comfortable enough for luxury travellers

The heritage hotels are comfortable and full of character, but not in the class of Rambagh or the Oberoi hotels. We choose the best rooms available and balance the journey with Samode and Rambagh. Expect old buildings, courtyards and character rather than full luxury service. Winter nights in Shekhawati can drop to 2 to 5 °C, so pack warm layers for the evenings.

Can this journey start in Jaipur

Yes. Begin with two nights in Jaipur, then drive to Samode and Shekhawati, ending with a drive back to Jaipur or on to Delhi or Bikaner. Samode is about 42 km, an hour from Jaipur, and Nawalgarh about 3.5 hours beyond. From Mandawa, Delhi is about 260 km and 5.5 hours by road, and Bikaner about 3.5 hours, which links well with our Thar desert journey.

Is a specialist guide important in Shekhawati

Very. Many havelis are locked, and only local guides know the caretakers. A good guide also explains the stories in the paintings, which are hard to read without help. Your specialist guide stays with you for all three days, through Mandawa, Fatehpur, Ramgarh and Nawalgarh, and haveli entries and caretaker fees are included. Access to private havelis can change; check current status before you travel.

When is the best time to visit Shekhawati

October to March. Days are pleasant and the light good for photography. December and January nights are cold. April to September is very hot. Winter nights in Shekhawati can drop to 2 to 5 °C, so pack warm layers for the evenings. We plan haveli walks for the morning and late afternoon light, with lunch and a rest at the hotel through the middle of the day.

Can I extend to Bikaner and Jaisalmer

Yes. From Mandawa, Bikaner is about 3.5 hours, and Jaisalmer a further 5.5 hours. See our Thar desert journey for a route that continues west. In that version you leave Shekhawati for two nights in Bikaner, then three in Jaisalmer and two in Jodhpur, flying home from Jodhpur. Samode and Jaipur can then sit at the start of the trip instead of the end.

Is this journey suitable for families

It suits families with older children interested in art and history. Younger children may find the haveli visits slow. Samode and Jaipur add variety. We can shorten the haveli walks, keep the stepwell and village drive near Mandawa, and give more time to Amber Fort and the bazaars in Jaipur. Tell us ages when planning, so we can arrange rooms that suit your family at each hotel.

Can I buy art or antiques in Shekhawati

There are antique and craft shops in Mandawa and other towns. Be cautious with claimed antiques; export of items over 100 years old is restricted in India. Ask for a written description and receipt for anything you buy. Your guide can point you to craft shops, and Jaipur's bazaars add brass and bangles in Tripolia. Export rules can change; check current status before you travel.

Is the price per person

Yes, per person, twin sharing, from the figure shown. It varies with dates and room categories. Single travellers pay a supplement. We confirm a firm quote once dates are fixed. Rambagh Palace and Samode Palace rates are highest around Christmas, New Year and Diwali, and suite categories add more, while the specialist guide and caretaker fees stay the same whatever rooms you choose.

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