Private journeys in seven lands · a planner replies within one working day
Try "Udaipur", "tiger", "honeymoon", "Ladakh in July"
Nine nights in Kerala's less-visited north: coffee estates, prehistoric caves and elephant forest in Wayanad; Theyyam rituals, forts, looms and biryani in Kannur; then Bekal Fort, the Valiyaparamba backwaters and more Theyyam from the comfort of Taj Bekal. Best from December to March.
Most visitors to Kerala never go north of Kochi, and they miss a different world. Malabar was the coast of the pepper trade with Arabia, and its food, architecture and Mappila Muslim culture reflect that. Inland, Wayanad is a high plateau of coffee and pepper estates, bordered by forest that is part of one of Asia's largest elephant ranges. And through the winter, the villages of Kannur and Kasaragod come alive at night with Theyyam.
This journey moves from the hills to the coast. Three nights in Wayanad cover the Edakkal Caves, a jeep safari in Muthanga and the forest temple of Thirunelli. Three nights in Kannur are built around Theyyam, with a local guide who finds the night's performances, and days for forts, looms and Thalassery's biryani. The last three nights at Taj Bekal add Kerala's largest fort, a boat day on Valiyaparamba and a final Theyyam in Kasaragod.
Highlights
Day by day
We meet you at Calicut International Airport at Karipur and drive about three hours to Wayanad, climbing the nine hairpin bends of the Thamarassery ghat to the plateau, with a stop at the viewpoint at the top. Check in at Vythiri Village, set in rainforest near Vythiri, or Taj Wayanad Resort & Spa above the Banasura Sagar reservoir. A quiet evening and dinner at the resort.
Arrive at the Edakkal Caves near Sulthan Bathery at opening time and climb about 1 km of steep path and ladders to a rock shelter whose walls are covered in carvings made thousands of years ago. Your guide explains the figures and what archaeologists have found. In the afternoon, walk a family coffee and pepper estate with its owner and taste the estate's coffee on the bungalow verandah.
An early start for a forest department jeep safari in the Muthanga range of the Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary, which borders Bandipur and Mudumalai. Elephants are seen on most drives, with gaur, spotted deer and sambar, and occasionally a tiger or leopard. Return for breakfast and rest. In the late afternoon, take a boat on Banasura Sagar under the forested hills. Sanctuaries can close in the dry season; check current status before you travel.
Leave early for the drive north through the Tholpetty forest, where elephants are often seen at dawn, to the ancient Vishnu temple at Thirunelli under the Brahmagiri hills. Only Hindus may enter the inner temple, but the setting and the Papanasini stream are worth the visit. Then descend the ghat to the coast and Kannur, arriving in the afternoon at a heritage homestay by the sea.
Visit St. Angelo Fort, built by the Portuguese in 1505, on its headland above Mappila Bay, and the Arakkal Kettu museum, palace of Kerala's only Muslim royal family. Rest in the afternoon. At dusk, your guide takes you to a village kavu where Theyyam is being performed that night. Watch the performers being painted and costumed, then the ritual as they become the deity. Return when you wish, often after midnight.
Rise early for the morning Muthappan Theyyam at the Parassinikadavu temple on the Valapattanam river, where all faiths are welcome. After breakfast, visit a handloom unit to watch weavers at work, then drive south to Thalassery for a lunch of its famous biryani made with fragrant short-grain rice. End the afternoon on Muzhappilangad's long drive-in beach. A second Theyyam night is optional.
Drive north up the coast to Nileshwar, where a private boat waits on the Valiyaparamba backwaters, a long lagoon of small islands with almost no other traffic. Cruise past fishing villages and mussel farms, step ashore on an island and walk to the sea, and eat a lunch of local fish cooked on board. Continue to Taj Bekal Resort & Spa, arriving in the late afternoon.
Be at Bekal Fort at opening time, when the laterite ramparts are cool and empty, and walk the walls above the sea with a guide, climbing the observation tower for views along the beaches. Return to the resort for a long, quiet day by the pool or in the spa. In the evening, if you wish, drive to a village shrine in Kasaragod district for one more Theyyam night, with fewer outside visitors than around Kannur.
In the morning, drive into the hills near Kumbla to the Ananthapura temple, a small shrine standing in the middle of a lake, which local tradition links to Thiruvananthapuram's Padmanabhaswamy temple. Rest at the resort through the afternoon. Late in the day, visit Chandragiri Fort above the Chandragiri river and take a short boat ride towards the estuary as the sun sets over the sea.
After breakfast, we drive you north across the Karnataka border to Mangaluru International Airport, about 1.5 hours, for your onward flight. If your flight is later in the day, there is time for a last walk on the beach at Kappil. Our team in India stays in touch until you are through check-in.
Included
Not included
Where you sleep
A Taj resort on the backwaters behind Kappil beach near Bekal Fort, with villas inspired by Kerala houseboats, many with private pools, a large spa and …
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Questions travellers ask
December to March, when Theyyam performances are most frequent, the weather is dry and Wayanad is cool. November and April also work, with fewer Theyyams in November and more heat in April. We do not run this journey in the monsoon, from June to September.
In the main season, from December to March, it is very likely, as performances take place almost every night somewhere in Kannur and Kasaragod. Dates are set locally, so we cannot guarantee a particular form. The Muthappan Theyyam at Parassinikadavu is performed every day of the year.
Kannur has no large luxury hotel, so we use a well-run heritage homestay or beach house on the coast, with good home cooking and hosts who know the area. If you prefer full luxury throughout, we can extend your stay at Taj Bekal and drive to Kannur's Theyyams from there.
Yes, if you are interested in culture and ritual more than backwaters and tea. Many guests do it as a second trip after the southern loop. It can also be combined with Kochi and the backwaters for a 14-night journey.
We meet you at Calicut International Airport at Karipur and drive about three hours to Wayanad via the Thamarassery ghat. Guests coming from Bengaluru can drive about six to seven hours via Mysuru, through the forests of Bandipur in daylight.
Occasionally. The Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary has tigers and leopards, and they are seen on some safaris, but sightings are not frequent. Elephants are seen on most drives. If tigers are your main interest, we can add a few nights in Nagarhole or Bandipur in Karnataka, outside this journey.
Most travellers find it extraordinary, but nights are long, crowded and loud, with fire in some forms and animal sacrifice at a few shrines. Your guide chooses performances to suit you, and you can leave at any time. We keep it to two or three nights.
From about ₹2,70,000 per person, twin sharing, including resorts in Wayanad and Bekal, a Kannur homestay, private car, specialist guides, safari and boat costs. Pool villas at Taj Bekal and peak dates cost more. Flights are extra. We send a detailed quote with room options once you share your dates.
Mangaluru International Airport is only about 65 km from Bekal, 1.5 hours by car, and well connected to Indian cities and the Gulf. It avoids driving back south. If you prefer, Kannur International Airport is about 2.5 hours from Bekal.
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