Why Ladakh has permits
Ladakh borders Pakistan-administered Gilgit-Baltistan to the west and Tibet to the east, and several of its most beautiful places lie close to the Line of Control or the Line of Actual Control. To manage access, the government has long designated these border areas as protected or restricted, requiring visitors to register before they go. The permits also collect fees used for the environment and local welfare.
For travellers, this means a little paperwork in Leh before the first trip out. It is straightforward when handled by a registered agency, and we take care of it for every guest. What causes confusion is that the rules for Indian nationals have changed several times since Ladakh became a Union Territory in 2019, and access for foreigners to certain areas, such as Hanle, has varied from year to year.
None of this should put you off. Thousands of visitors travel through the protected areas every summer, and the checkposts are routine. Soldiers and police at the barriers are generally courteous and quick, especially when the paperwork is in order. The main thing is to let a reliable agency arrange it, carry the right copies and allow a day in Leh for the process.
Which areas need a permit
In general, permits are needed for the protected areas close to the borders, and not for the main Indus valley or Zanskar. The table below is our understanding at the time of writing. Check current status before you travel, because routes and requirements are revised by the authorities, sometimes at short notice.
| Area | Indian nationals | Foreign nationals | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Leh, Indus monasteries, Stok | No permit | No permit | Entry fees at monasteries |
| Sham valley, Alchi, Lamayuru | No permit | No permit | Dah-Hanu villages have needed permits |
| Zanskar (Padum, Karsha, Phugtal) | No permit generally | No permit generally | New roads may change rules |
| Nubra, Turtuk | ILP or online registration | Protected Area Permit | Checkposts at South and North Pullu |
| Pangong, Man, Merak | ILP or online registration | Protected Area Permit | Chushul road needs specific endorsement |
| Tso Moriri, Tso Kar | ILP or online registration | Protected Area Permit | Checked on the Indus road |
| Hanle | ILP or online registration | Access has varied | Confirm before planning |
| Hemis National Park | Park fees | Park fees | Collected by the Wildlife Department |
Rules for Indian nationals
For many years, Indian citizens needed an Inner Line Permit, or ILP, to visit Nubra, Pangong, Tso Moriri and other protected areas. In 2021 the administration announced that domestic tourists would no longer need an ILP, while still paying environmental and other fees and registering their visit. Since then, procedures have been adjusted, and in practice visitors have been asked to register online through the official Leh permit portal or via an agency, carrying a printed or digital copy.
We handle registration for all Indian guests, collecting copies of photo identification such as a passport, Aadhaar card or driving licence before you travel. On the road, checkposts at South Pullu, North Pullu, Tangtse, Mahe and elsewhere inspect documents. Keep your original identity document with you. Check current status before you travel.
Rules for foreign nationals
Foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit, or PAP, for Nubra, Turtuk, Pangong, Tso Moriri and other protected areas. It is issued in Leh through a registered travel agency, which applies on your behalf with copies of your passport and Indian visa. The permit lists the areas and dates covered, and checkposts compare it with your passport.
Some areas have additional restrictions for foreigners. Access to Hanle and the road from Pangong via Chushul has been restricted or permitted at different times, and areas closer to the borders remain closed. Rules about the minimum number of travellers per permit have also changed. Because of this, we confirm each route for foreign guests before we finalise the itinerary. Check current status before you travel.
- Send us clear copies of your passport photo page and Indian visa
- Keep your original passport with you at all times
- Carry several photocopies of the permit for checkposts
- Do not photograph checkposts, bridges or military areas
Fees
Permits carry several charges: an environmental fee, a contribution to the Red Cross, and, for some areas, a wildlife protection fee. Hemis National Park has its own entry and camping fees. Amounts have changed over the years and differ between Indian and foreign nationals. On our journeys, all permit and environmental fees are included in the price, so there is nothing to pay on the road. Check current status before you travel.
If you travel independently for part of your stay, ask your hotel or a registered agency in Leh to help, and keep the receipts. Concessions sometimes apply to children and certain categories of visitor. Rules about where fees are collected also change: some are paid online, some at the time of issue and some at checkposts.
How long permits take
When handled by an agency, permits are usually ready within a day, and online registration for Indian nationals can be completed in advance. We apply on your first or second day in Leh, while you are resting, so the permits are ready well before your first trip out on day three or four. You do not need to visit any office yourself.
Permits are issued for a set period and a list of areas. If your plans change, for example adding Hanle or extending a stay, we amend or reissue them in Leh. Keep the permit and your identity documents with you, not in your main luggage, because checkposts may ask for them at any time.
Special cases and changing routes
Some places sit at the edge of what is permitted. Thang, beyond Turtuk, and its viewpoint near the Line of Control have been opened to visitors in recent years. The Pangong–Chushul–Hanle road has been opened to visitors with permits at times. New roads in Zanskar, from Darcha over Shinku La and along the Zanskar gorge, may carry new rules. In all these cases we check with the authorities before your trip and again on the road.
Drone use is restricted in much of Ladakh, especially near borders and military areas, and may need separate permission. Satellite phones are regulated in India and should not be brought without permission. If you have any doubt about equipment, ask us before you travel.
Checkposts and what we do for you
On each route out of Leh there are one or more checkposts. On the way to Nubra they are at South Pullu and North Pullu, below and above Khardung La. On the Pangong road there are checks around Tangtse, and on the Indus road to Tso Moriri and Hanle at points such as Mahe and Nyoma. Your driver stops, hands over copies of the permit and identity documents, and usually you can stay in the car. The process takes a few minutes, though queues build in peak season.
Before you arrive, we ask for scanned copies of passports, visas or Indian identity documents. We prepare the applications, pay the fees, collect the permits and make copies. Your guide carries a folder with everything needed for the trip and keeps track of any changes. If plans shift on the road, for example a closure that forces a different route, we arrange new permits from Leh.
Please do not photograph checkposts, bridges, army camps or military vehicles, and follow any instructions given by officials. Stay on the main roads in border areas, and do not wander towards fences or signed restricted zones. These rules are taken seriously, and following them keeps everyone's trip smooth.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
Do Indian citizens need an Inner Line Permit for Ladakh?
The ILP requirement for Indian citizens was announced as removed in 2021, but visitors to protected areas such as Nubra, Pangong and Tso Moriri still pay fees and register, usually online or through an agency. Procedures change, so check current status before you travel.
What permit do foreigners need for Ladakh?
Foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit for Nubra, Turtuk, Pangong, Tso Moriri and other protected areas. It is issued in Leh through a registered travel agency. Leh and the Indus valley do not need a permit. Check current status before you travel.
Can I get a Ladakh permit online?
Indian nationals have been able to register and pay fees online through the official Leh permit portal. Foreign nationals need to apply through a registered agency in Leh. We handle both for our guests. Carry printed copies on the road.
Do I need a permit for Leh?
No. Leh, the monasteries of the Indus valley such as Thiksey, Hemis and Alchi, the Sham valley and Lamayuru do not need permits. Monasteries and museums charge entry fees. Hotels ask for photo identity at check-in, so keep your passport or Indian ID handy.
Do I need a permit for Zanskar?
The main Zanskar valley around Padum has not generally required a protected area permit. New roads may change this. Check current status before you travel; we confirm before each Zanskar journey. Hemis National Park and other parks charge their own fees.
Can foreigners visit Hanle?
Access for foreign nationals to Hanle has varied, with restrictions in some years and permits allowed in others. We check the current rule before planning a foreign guest's itinerary. Check current status before you travel. Tso Moriri is a good alternative.
How much do Ladakh permits cost?
Fees include an environmental fee, a Red Cross contribution and, in some areas, a wildlife fee. Amounts differ for Indian and foreign nationals and have changed over time. On our journeys, all permit fees are included. There is nothing to pay on the road.
How many photocopies of the permit should I carry?
Carry at least four or five photocopies, plus your original identity document. Some checkposts keep a copy. We provide copies, and your guide or driver handles the checkposts. Keep a digital copy on your phone as well, in case paper copies run out on a long route.
Can I fly a drone in Ladakh?
Drone use is restricted in much of Ladakh, especially near borders and military areas, and needs permission under Indian drone rules. Do not fly without checking. We can advise on current rules before you travel. Penalties can be serious. Leave it at home if unsure.
