Onam
Aug–Sep, in the Malayalam month of Chingam (lunar calendar)
Onam celebrates the legendary King Mahabali, whose reign was said to be a golden age of equality and plenty, and who is believed to visit his people once a year. The festival runs for ten days from the star of Atham to Thiruvonam in the month of Chingam, the first month of the Malayalam year, which falls in August or September. It is celebrated by Malayalis of every faith.
Each morning, families lay a pookalam, a carpet of flower petals in concentric patterns, outside the house, growing larger each day. On Thiruvonam, the main day, they gather for the Onasadya, a feast of more than 20 vegetarian dishes served in a fixed order on a banana leaf, from banana chips and pickles to sambar, avial, olan and several kinds of payasam. New clothes, called Onakkodi, are worn.
Public celebrations vary by town. Near Kochi, the Athachamayam procession at Thrippunithura opens the festival with floats and folk arts. In Thrissur, Pulikali tiger dancers fill the streets on the fourth day. Snake-boat races are held on rivers across central Kerala, including the Aranmula boat race on the Pamba. Thiruvananthapuram hosts a week of cultural events and lights.
How to do it well
- Ask us to arrange a sadya lunch with a Kerala family; it is very different from a hotel version.
- Book Kochi and Kumarakom rooms early, as Indian travellers fill hotels during Onam.
- Many shops and offices close on the main days of Onam; plan sightseeing around it.
Questions travellers ask
Good to know
When is Onam celebrated?
Onam falls in the Malayalam month of Chingam, in August or September, and runs for ten days from Atham to Thiruvonam. The exact dates change each year with the lunar calendar, so check current status before you travel. Thiruvonam is the main day, with the sadya feast.
What is an Onam sadya?
A vegetarian feast served on a banana leaf, with more than 20 dishes placed in a set order: chips, pickles, rice, parippu with ghee, sambar, rasam, avial, olan, kaalan, thoran, pachadi and several payasams. It is eaten with the right hand. Many hotels serve sadya, but a family meal is best.
Where is the best place to experience Onam?
Onam is celebrated in every Kerala home, so a meal with a family is the best experience. For public events, Thrissur's Pulikali tiger dance, Thrippunithura's Athachamayam procession near Kochi, the Aranmula boat race and Thiruvananthapuram's cultural week are the highlights.
Is Onam a good time to visit Kerala?
Yes, for culture, though it is the tail end of the monsoon, so expect showers. The landscape is very green, festivities are everywhere and prices are below the winter peak. Domestic travel is heavy, so book hotels early, and expect some closures on the main festival days.
Festival journeys
Routes built around the calendar
